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Where does the neutral safety switch interrupt |
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ramairthree
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/14/2010 Status: Offline Points: 724 |
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Posted: May/19/2022 at 5:29pm |
Power in a 1971 Javelin?
I rescued a 360 SST several years ago from being crushed. It had sat since about 1988. Transmission rebuilt, pertronix ignition in the distributor, new dual exhaust, new tires, carb rebuilt, front drums converted to discs, subframe connectors, etc. It has been out for an occasional drive until a few weeks ago. It now won’t start. New battery, solenoid getting power, clicks, power coming out starter post when key in start position. When I have another set of hands will test for power at the starter when cranking. |
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1971 Javelin SST 360
"If you are crazy enough to drive a 71 you might as well keep the BW tranny." |
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73hornut
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Southern Oregon Status: Offline Points: 3130 |
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On the shifter
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71 Javelin
74 Gremlin 79 Spirit AMX Rogue Valley Rumblers Like Us on FB https://www.facebook.com/groups/1602825606650796 |
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Heavy 488
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/27/2019 Location: In the Status: Offline Points: 3557 |
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You say power comes out solenoid post for the starter and it doesn't crank? Then solenoid shouldn't be the issue. Check the cable connections and battery voltage when you turn the key to the crank position.
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WesternRed
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5808 |
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Neutral safety switch interrupts power to the activation side of the solenoid, if the solenoid is clicking, the neutral safety switch is not you problem.
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I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil.
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ramairthree
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/14/2010 Status: Offline Points: 724 |
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1971 Javelin SST 360
"If you are crazy enough to drive a 71 you might as well keep the BW tranny." |
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bigbad69
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6685 |
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Agree with Western, the NSS is not your problem. I suspect dirty connections. The Ford starter system was prone to this - works one day, not the next. You need to clean all the connections on the heavy gauge cables at the battery, at the engine block, at the solenoid, at the starter. Dollars to doughnuts, it will fix your problem. Even if it doesn't, it only costs a few minutes of your time. At that point, I would be verifying the resistance of the heavy gauge cables - they can corrode within the jacket. But clean the connections first before buying parts. Your wallet will thank you.
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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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Regamble1969
AMC Apprentice Joined: Dec/01/2021 Location: Boise Idaho Status: Offline Points: 204 |
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Agree with what everyone else has said. Start signal to NSS, from NSS to solenoid. If the solenoid is activating then the NSS is good. The other ways to test this are check the voltage at the S-post of the solenoid when the key is in start position, and second is to buy a cheap solenoid bypass switch. I have a couple I've collected over the years because they're just so dang handy to have. Always check the condition of the connections, there is a lot of current that needs to hit the starter and a bit of corrosion can cause a lot of headache. If you have voltage out of the solenoid on key-in-start but no action at the starter at all the most likely culprit would be the starter. I've seen quite a few solenoids that have bad contacts internally so you'll get 12v out but no current capabilities. One thing that I've seen a few times as well is starter grounding. Since the starter grounds through the engine ground, dirt and oil can cause resistance in that system and cause the starter to not activate and check the engine to chassis ground. So make sure the starter is tight and it is clean where it bolts to the transmission. As a result of these things, SOP in my shop has always been to remove, inspect, and clean or replace all connections in the starter circuit every time we worked on the system. It's just good practice.
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