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Using ARP head studs or stock bolts? |
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Jims330
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/18/2014 Location: Central FL Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Posted: Sep/14/2021 at 9:00pm |
I would like to use ARP head studs on my 401 build but have heard they hit the free-flow manifolds I want to use. Don't want to grind my manifolds that much so was wondering if you guys have any input on this. Thanks for your help.
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PROSTOCKTOM
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/20/2010 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 2458 |
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Is there a particular reason you want or think you need studs on your build? I assume since your using manifolds it's a stockish type build. In my opinion you would be wasting money for nothing if that is the case. Rather than grind the manifolds you would probably be better off cutting the ends of the studs off so they are flush with the nut. It will take some effort installing, removing, and re-installing to get them trimmed correctly, but if you must have studs this is how I would go about it.
Tom
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Molnar Technologies Full Service Dealer - Crankshafts & Connecting Rods
1969 AMC Rambler Rouge Race Car 1974 AMC Hornet Hatchback, Wally Booth Outlaw Nostalgic Pro Stock Race Car Project |
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FSJunkie
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2011 Location: Flagstaff, AZ Status: Offline Points: 4742 |
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AMC used 1/2 inch head bolts while much of the competition used 7/16 inch head bolts. Thy are overbuilt and stronger than they need to be already.
Studs are useful on very high performance builds or in engines that will frequently be disassembled since the studs save wear and tear on the threads in the block. Otherwise, studs are more or less a waste of money on a stock to moderate build that is only taken apart once every 30 years.
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1955 Packard
1966 Marlin 1972 Wagoneer 1973 Ambassador 1977 Hornet 1982 Concord D/L 1984 Eagle Limited |
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mbwicz
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Feb/20/2019 Location: Buffalo, NY Status: Offline Points: 2001 |
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ARP bolts are another option, if you are looking to change from your factory head bolts. Still best to test fit them with your manifolds.
Mike |
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1970 AMX, one step forward, one step back. Both steps cost time and money.
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Lenni AMC
AMC Nut Joined: Jun/05/2011 Location: Iceland Status: Offline Points: 427 |
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If you decide to get studs get the kit with the 12 point nuts
The cheaper stud kit from ARP with the 6 point nuts does not fit the heads in all places like between the rocker arms stud bosses and on each end of the head if I recall correctly. I have no idea if the free flows will fit without modifying the studs or not but I know that with headers you need to shorten 3 studs on each side of the engine 6 total, the studs you need to shorten are the ones that are directly under the exhaust ports.
Edited by Lenni AMC - Sep/15/2021 at 5:48am |
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AMC Gremlin w/401
6.212 @ 117.01 - 1/8 Mile 9.785 @ 133.11 - 1/4 Mile https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCikyNqrfpMB8VzLd910Hkhg https://rbjracing1.wixsite.com/website |
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mramc
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/12/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3223 |
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You can get new head bolts off most of the AMC parts vendors. The problem with 40 year old plus factory bolts is all the stress they been under for some many years. The stock bolts are fine, just get new ones. They are a replaceable item on any major rebuild. LRDaum
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LRDaum
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Jims330
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/18/2014 Location: Central FL Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Thanks for the info guys. I just thought the studs would hold better with less stress on the threads. I have always used bolts on all my other builds over the years and never had any issues. I would like to replace the old bolts since I don't know how much stress they have been thru. I think I would feel more warm and fuzzy about using new factory bolts over even ARP if I can still get factory ones. I plan to clean the threads good and oil the bolts and torque them down or should I use anti-seize on the threads? Been so long since I was in an engine I would like to get some input from the guys who do this all the time. Again thanks for your input, really appreciate the help from this forum.
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6909 |
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First, just clean up the threaded block with an undersize or used tap. Never use a new, unknown tap on a engine block. Most professional builds will us a 0.002" undersize tap.
Most professional builds will use a molybdenum disulphide lubricant for consistent torque. That's what ARP uses. An AMC 1/2" head bolt at 75% of yield is 106 ft-lbs. Your not going to break a reused head bolt - even lubricated. Studs are always better for many reasons, they stretch the stud not the block the threads, you can always see if threads are damaged, more consistent clamping force ... If your building a GEN2 engine with 7/16" bolt heads. Best to use new bolts or studs as they are getting close to yield stretch.
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bbgjc
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/24/2009 Location: No.VA Status: Offline Points: 1660 |
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If using aluminum heads you can't use studs, no clearance. On standard iron heads the outside lower/short studs stick up quite high and interfere with the exhaust manifolds.
Unless you're building something over 600HP stick with bolts and even good original/NOS AMC stuff will keep your engine in perfect shape. No antisieze on the threads. Standard replacement head bolts get a little standard weight 30 motor oil. Just a little on the first few threads. Edited by bbgjc - Sep/21/2021 at 8:09am |
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JGRANTAMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jun/02/2017 Location: Maine Status: Offline Points: 1703 |
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Studs can be used with aluminum Edelbrock heads they just have to be fitted and it did require some grinding on the exhaust manifolds.
J
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