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Transmission swap on 66 rambler classic

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Ed. View Drop Down
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    Posted: May/13/2021 at 9:52am
Hello all.  I bought a 66 rambler classic 770. The automactic transmission was bad. Someone had been in it before and looked like they took a hammer to it so I put one out of a 64 classic 550 2 door in it. Got it all back together only to find out the starter does not engage the torque converter. Pulled the starter back off and noticed the ring gear on the 550 is smaller then the one from the 770.  The 770 motor is a 232. I'm not sure what the 550 had in it.  Anyways ive heard I can either put the bellhousing from the 550 on the transmission. Bit the aligning pins are smaller. Or I can use the 770 torque converter.  I was wondering if the 550 starter would correct the  problem. Maybe a bigger starter gear Idk. If anyone has any input on this issue it would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks y'all. 
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vinny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2021 at 7:36pm
Use the 770 torque converter as mentioned in the previous post but I wouldn't use it if it is contaminated. I suppose you could swap ring gears but that would involve cutting and welding. Maybe it would affect the balance.
Another option would be to have the 770 T/C gone over in a shop.


Edited by vinny - May/13/2021 at 7:41pm
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2021 at 10:50pm
If the donor had a 195.6 OHV it would have the small flywheel or ring gear/torque converter. Gotta change it out. It's not a starter issue. 

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2021 at 6:12am
Just in case it makes you feel better to get another "use the 770 torque converter" answer, here it is! As TomJ stated, the 64 had a 195.6 which uses a smaller diameter converter (ring gear is on converter) than the 66 232.

Just to note, a very small number of cars were made with the 232 in 64 late in the year -- a few hundred IIRC. Chances of finding a 64 with a factory 232 are therefore slim. though not impossible.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2021 at 8:21am
I think the T/C's are the same but with different size ring gears. Maybe 12 1/2" dia. vs 13". 
Don't try and use the 196 bell housing. They changed it for a reason.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/15/2021 at 7:34am
Hey thanks you guys. I don't have the 232 T/C. I am a little worried about using it do to the shape the trans was in. It looked ike someone had a hammer in there. Wire coat hangers strung all ober the place. I can tell the T/C has been replaced on the 232 at some point. The company's name is wrote on it. I called them but couldnt get any info on it. Think I'll take the chance. I've had this Motor out enough times to d it in my sleep. I'll let y'all know how it goes. Again. Thank's for the help. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/15/2021 at 9:49am
Take the used converter to a trans shop and ask them to flush it. They can probably send it off to be rebuilt, and will most likely recommend that. You can't really flush it yourself.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2021 at 9:13am
Farna. I seen on another post you talking a guy through adjusting the bands on a trans. I believe mine is a t35 air cooled. I just had this transmission rebuilt. It's out of a 64 classic 550 2door. It grabs great in forward although it dont seem to have a 3rd gear. Reverse feels like the bands are gone. You can feel it go into reverse and it does try to move. Is it possible that it far enough out of adjustment that it won't move?    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2021 at 10:31am
IIRC under the pan adjustment is 1/4" spacer and tighten to 9 inch lbs., then tighten lock nut and remove spacer.

Adjustment outside transmission RH side is 9 foot lbs., back off 3/4 turn and tighten lock nut. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2021 at 3:54pm
Ed. - The "doesn't seem to have a third gear" is probably you. The shift quadrant is marked P-R-N-2-D-1-L. The 2 and 1 are small and to the left and right of "D". The first "D" position right after "N" is D2. In D2 the trans starts off in SECOND gear then shifts to third at the appropriate speed. To get it to start in FIRST gear pull it one more notch to D1. That's just how the early Borg-Warner auto trannys shifted (up to about 67 -- Ford/Mercury trannys as well, since they are a license produced BW in reality). Transmissions marked "Shift-Command" started appearing in 66 (maybe 65?) and shift as you would expect -- D-2-1 positions. For the first 2-3 years Shift Command was optional, the Flash-O-Matic (D2-D1-L) standard.

The rear clutch and rear band control Reverse. It is possible that the rear band adjustment is loose. The rear band is adjusted outside the case on the right side (passenger side on US cars) as Vinny pointed out. It's hard to reach with the trans in the car though.

9 ft/lbs isn't much, just good snug. I've adjusted one by just loosening then tightening down that nut until good snug, then back off 3/4 turn and it worked fine. I'd put a 1/4" bolt in a vice and tighten the nut with a wrench then put a torque wrench set to 10 ft/lb on it to see what 9-10 ft/lbs feels like first. The determine if you can do it this way. You probably need an inch/lb torque wrench, as a big 1/2" torque wrench won't be very accurate at 10 ft/lbs even if it will go down that far. 1 ft/lb = 12 inch/lb, so you want about 108-120 inch/lb (9-10 ft/lb).

You can get a cheap inch/lb wrench from Harbor Freight that will be fine for a few years if taken care of. I've tested one against my brother's Snap-on and it is easily within 1-2% of the same value. I'll keep the seldom used inch/lb wrench 10-15 years, but discard my cheap 1/2" ft/lb wrench every 3-5 years, depending on how much I use it. The more you use it the faster it will loose some accuracy, and time takes a toll, especially if you don't set it back to zero after use. The $20-25 wrenches work fine for occasional use.they have a $30 digital torque adapter that you use with a standard ratchet or pull bar. The range is 30-150 ft/lbs though, no good for small bolts.
Frank Swygert
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