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T/S socket grease?

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6PakBee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/30/2020 at 4:48pm
Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

40 years of experience is good by me. 
Please explain why the Lubriplate product is inferior.
I'd certainly like to know the in's and outs of better products and why.
Please elaborate.
6PakBee, you have a similar opinion. The question is the same, why?
I've used the Lubriplate here in the salt belt for all my life and it's always been good for me. If there's a better product I'd use it.



Sure, I'm basing my opinion on what I've see.  What I've seen eventually happen with the white grease (I am assuming that it is the Lubriplate product or an equivalent) is that it hardens and becomes a semi-solid rather than a paste.  I can't see how long term you are going to maintain corrosion protection with that.  The silicone grease on the other hand (at least in the 10+ years I've been using it) is as 'greasy' now as it was when I put it in the connectors.  Your comment about the Lubriplate being a switch contact lubricant is well taken but that is a bit different than an anti-corrosion product.
Roger Gazur
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/30/2020 at 7:06pm
Thanks for the incites. The Lubriplate is an anti oxidation compound which also can be stated as anti corrosion. Ya, the real old stuff did dry out over time, the latest seems better - for now. I'll pick up some of the silicone and try it out.
Is the a product you recommend? I have GE silicone grease, but it does not state on the container that it is specific for electrical use.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/30/2020 at 11:25pm
New chemicals are almost universally better than old chemistry. I can't think of a single chemical from the 1960's I'd prefer over modern ones. 

Dielectric greases are grease with low film strength, allows for metal to metal contact. Lubricants have high film strength for the exact opposite reason (metal to metal is destruction).


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1968 american, 199ci, T14
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2020 at 9:02am
Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

Thanks for the incites. The Lubriplate is an anti oxidation compound which also can be stated as anti corrosion. Ya, the real old stuff did dry out over time, the latest seems better - for now. I'll pick up some of the silicone and try it out.
Is the a product you recommend? I have GE silicone grease, but it does not state on the container that it is specific for electrical use.


This is what I've been using.  I'm not saying it's the best or only choice, but it's what I've been using.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

I know this is a bit off topic, but I always used the traditional Lubriplate 105 as an assembly lube.  I had one motor I assembled sit for about a year before I got it installed.  Pulled the valve covers to check for oil when I pre-oiled the motor (Mopar BB) and the 105 around the pushrod ends and the rocker arm tips had hardened to the semi-solid state.  Since then I've used a mix of ATF and STP as an assembly lube.  I'm open to suggestions as that mix seems to be effective but it's messy, messy, messy.


Edited by 6PakBee - Dec/01/2020 at 9:07am
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

"Shotgunning works great for pheasants, not so great for electrical problems"

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Steve_P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2020 at 9:52am
This is what I use. And a price drop. Silicone has been the standard for decades for caliper pins and electrical connectors- get into the 21st century and put down the lubriplate. Edit- silicone paste can also be used on weatherseals.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005RNEH5O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Assembly lube- I use a moly paste. This is the last brand I bought. Doesnt drip off like the red Permatex product.

https://smile.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3331-Extreme-Pressure-Assembly/dp/B000M8RYUE/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=engine+assembly+lube&qid=1606837840&s=automotive&sr=1-4


Edited by Steve_P - Dec/01/2020 at 9:55am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xspiriment Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/02/2020 at 8:47am
I guess since i brought this situation up i need to reply with thanks for showing me many new options. I like the 3M 08946 silicone paste. I need to clean out about 20 of these sockets and hope the old plastic housing don't crack and break. Interesting how much things have change but new materials are better. Again thanks for all the input.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote greenhue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/02/2020 at 1:44pm
Back when I worked at the dealership, white grease did everything from lubing door hinges to the back of light bulbs when they were metal. And the only product that has kept its good reputation is Marvel mystery oil. It cleans fuel lines, quiets lifters and smells nice...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote First_Gear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/02/2020 at 4:18pm
And to throw another opinion in the mix I use de-oxit on all my switches and contacts. Seems to work great. You can spray it into the headlight switches too. Course' in the presence of heavy moisture the dielectric grease might be the ticket to seal out the moisture.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/02/2020 at 11:15pm
Yeah, chemistry is a branch of physics, which has been undergoing more or less revolution ongoing for 100 years, and in the last 25, nearly vertical gains in knowledge. That knowledge plus computer-based analysis and measurement, and closed-loop process control, has revolutionized materials science. There's materials today that if you showed up with them in 1970, people would think you're from outer space.

About 10 years ago I started tossing all my old chemicals, and try to each year see what the new stuff is. Permatex's new stuff, though it's all just 'trickle down' from the auto industry, is so much better than stuff from even 10 years ago it's not funny.

Right Stuff, assemble engines with only dimensional gaskets (head, oil pump). Ultra Grey and Ultra Black, use them like those old silicones but they are not, at all, they're completely different. I use 600 degree F flexible sealers on exhaust manifolds. 

Lubricants too, just unbelievably better, more consistent. 

De-oxit is pretty good stuff. Every radio station I ever worked in used it (back when those required a room; now it's a shared virtual server and a nice DAC at the transmitter).

1961 roadster american, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 american, 199ci, T14
AMC pages: http://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/

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