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Strut Rod FIX

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White70JavelinSST View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Strut Rod FIX
    Posted: May/20/2016 at 4:59pm
I found these while wandering the internet looking for a better answer.

They're from Total Control Products out of Scaramento CA.

They're made for a Mustang. $519 a pair.

What do you think? If they just had the flat blade on the end they would fit the 70 Javelin/AMX. If it had the end with the steering stop on it, it would fit others. With a bit of adaption these would fit almost any AMC.  The end that fits into the strut rod bracket is a True Center Pivot Socket with 12 degrees of deflection.
Anyone else seen anything similar?


70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/20/2016 at 5:24pm
We have discused similar rod designs... they all place the pivot closer to the lower control arm, which defeats the perpose.

Eventually I will get around to making a custom set to show my design, which allows proper pivot location and looks very stock with stock adjustability.

Imagine a spherical bearing welded at the center of the bracket. While the rod slides through and is secured by adjusting nuts, washers and lightly modified bushings to seal /cover, and add shock dampening for the bearing. Quite simple and effective. Just need to save about $100.00 to obtain parts and weld.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Devil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/20/2016 at 6:29pm
304-dude,
Something like this:

It really wants to have a spherical bushing both at the strut rod pivot and at the lower arm pivot at the cross-member.    

Stock rubber bushings do the job, but don't locate positively.   

A spherical joint at the strut rod chassis pivot requires a bit more deflection at the cross-member bushing.  

Sphericals at both ends of the strut rod take stress off the lower arm pivot at the cross-member, but introduces an additional unwanted degree of freedom.

If going with a spherical bushing or heim at the strut rod chassis connection, my recommendation would be to fit one also at the arm cross-member pivot, but it may be too harsh for normal street use and need some reinforcing. 

Hope this helps,RD 


Edited by Red Devil - May/20/2016 at 6:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/20/2016 at 7:06pm
Originally posted by Red Devil Red Devil wrote:



304-dude,
Something like this:

It really wants to have a spherical bushing both at the strut rod pivot and at the lower arm pivot at the cross-member.    

Stock rubber bushings do the job, but don't locate positively.   

A spherical joint at the strut rod chassis pivot requires a bit more deflection at the cross-member bushing.  

Sphericals at both ends of the strut rod take stress off the lower arm pivot at the cross-member, but introduces an additional unwanted degree of freedom.

If going with a spherical bushing or heim at the strut rod chassis connection, my recommendation would be to fit one also at the arm cross-member pivot, but it may be too harsh for normal street use and need some reinforcing. 

Hope this helps,RD 




Close, but the spherical DOM 15 bearing will have a cup welded in the opening of the bracket. Instead of the cup being centered it will be 65% towareds the back so that the pivot will be more at the bracket centerline.

So you know... the combo of spherical bearing in the bracket with the two bushings, work together as one. The bearing being more to center the pivot, while poly bushings allow for shock and stiffer suspension travel. May need to have custom rods made to keep deflection down by flex. But this is road use not rally.

What I plan to do is cup out two poly bushings and use them in conjunction to help control shock to the cup and bearing. Plus allow for keeping the bearing clean, almost maintenance free.

I also was thinking of doing sphericals at the crossmeber end... probably will do it, just I get one track minded in doing new tricks one at a time. Like to see what does what and work from there. In a way it allowed me to think of unconventional ways to do things. I think my cousine finally rubbed off on me. He makes do with the simplest and oddest fixes. Amazes me on his barn yard ways, that here I use to spend money to do what he has done with none. Ha!

As for angle of deflection... I also will be adding a block to keep the suspension at body rest under load. Thus, the wheels will never drop. Another thing is my suspension is dropped by suspension travel, not by dropping plates. I will be using HD Hornet springs, shock packers for bump stops, and spring wedges if needed for adjustability without need of changing springs.

Without use of the 2 inch bump stops, I will have moved suspension travel higher than stock, but will limit by use of packers appropriately.

I have moved my stock suspension outside the AMC box a wee bit, with track in mind. Not ride comfort, though I do prefer a stiff ride over cushy. Wife still is contimplating why she allowed getting the 09 Honda Accord Coupe, it makes her feel like a BB in a box car. If I can make my Javelin feel a wee stuffer, you wont hear me complain.

RedDevil, thanks for your input and nice picture of your design. Not that we think the same, just glad to see someone design with proper function, not just a flashy questionable fix.



Edited by 304-dude - May/20/2016 at 7:24pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Devil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/20/2016 at 8:29pm
304-dude, 

Just to clarify, the picture I posted was just snagged from the Web - it's not my design and not one I'd promote as it uses a plain spherical radial bearing in a mostly thrust application (there are thrust type sphericals available, but typicaly limited to about +/- 7deg so not quite enough).    

There are lots of variations for Mustangs, so most could be adapted to AMCs.  Quick web search for Mustang adjustable strut rod will find lots of versions.  

Whether or not it's a good idea to stray from stock rubber bushings ... well, just make sure whatever you fit is stronger than stock so there are no unfortunate incidents at speed.  

Keep it safe, RD.   

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/20/2016 at 9:37pm
Originally posted by Red Devil Red Devil wrote:

304-dude, 

Just to clarify, the picture I posted was just snagged from the Web - it's not my design and not one I'd promote as it uses a plain spherical radial bearing in a mostly thrust application (there are thrust type sphericals available, but typicaly limited to about +/- 7deg so not quite enough).    

There are lots of variations for Mustangs, so most could be adapted to AMCs.  Quick web search for Mustang adjustable strut rod will find lots of versions.  

Whether or not it's a good idea to stray from stock rubber bushings ... well, just make sure whatever you fit is stronger than stock so there are no unfortunate incidents at speed.  

Keep it safe, RD.   



Thanks for your input on proper bearing usage and your concerns for safty. I have yet to make my decision, have a plan, will find what will work or make do with what may work for Fords. Though it will take more money to convert what is available than to just go and make it.

Again. The design is allowing the bushings to do the work, the bearing is just to keep pivot stable. So bearing failure should not be dramatic. My only concern I the grade of steel in the strut rod. After seeing a few break and bend... I may just have to customize with a better grade of steel to replace the factory strut rod. I already done over kill on my rack tie rods, may do the same for the stut rods. Again, once I get the spherical bearing in proper with enough usable angle I'll move to further mods to keep it safe.

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/21/2016 at 9:07am
Lots of great responses !
I can tell you guys have been thinking of a better solution too.
I certainly have decided that poly bushings are great, but lookout, one mis-move or memory lapse of how to take care of them and a strut rod can break.
70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/21/2016 at 4:11pm
half-poly (front) and half-rubber (rear) is a decent compromise; lots of compliance for bump and such, but the relative precision of the poly. only half the squeak too :-)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2016 at 5:14am
Maybe this will give you guys a few ideas, from the Jim Richards Javelin:

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2016 at 6:14am
Originally posted by WesternRed WesternRed wrote:

Maybe this will give you guys a few ideas, from the Jim Richards Javelin:



WesternRed, nice representation of a custom ball joint setup from a member.

I had contemplated using a modified truck balljoint without need of any welding to the AMC components. I would cut the cup areas out at the radius for welding to steel centering bushings, machine off the stud from the ball, and drill out a hole to have the tie rod slip through. Still using dished out poly bushings    for concealment and sealing from the elements. My main concern is how I am to deal with the stock strut rod rigidity. May use a quartered split steel tube as a reinforcement sheath to be welded along the length. As for the weakness of the threaded end, will weld a barrel to a thicker locknut to fit over the modified tie rod diameter.

The DOM 15 spherical cupped bearing option had put the idea of the truck ball joint asside for some time, mainly because the extra work to customize a big ball joint.

How it all fits is by compression of the components when assembled. The dished out bushings allow for the fitment over the modified truck balljoint, the big washers are to keep everything sandwiched together.

Again my design only uses the ball joint mod as a centerting locator to the pivot of the tie rods action. It is not a main component to strength or durability of the tie rod's action, unlike everyone elses design. It may be a compromise between the harshness of bushing eliminatiors and the polly bushings without changing pivot distance away from stock. It adds ease of install with stock components with stock adjustment as well. Though customization of the tie rod by strengthening, is optional to ones needs.




Edited by 304-dude - May/22/2016 at 6:25am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
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