Starter removal - 232 with 3spd auto

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   Steadily working through the '66 Classic 770 I inherited, trying to get it onto the road for spring, but having sat for so many years in a dusty carport it's been one thing after another. 
Trying to get it home from the paintshop yesterday and now the starter drive has called it quits, even though soleoid and motor are cooperating. Have a reman starter ordered for Thursday but I have a question on the removal. 

Working in a garage with no hoist (so ideally a top-down approach) I'm wondering what others have done to remove the top mounting bolt. I can get two extensions over the length of the starter but the socket wrench and/or breaker bar simply has no room to swing with the exhaust manifold and pipe in the way.
If I instead go in without extensions, I'm so close to the firewall that I have the same issue.

Bottom bolt/nut look far more approachable. Just wondering if there's a better plan of attack for the top bolt. Unbolt and reposition the exhaust pipe, perhaps?

Thanks as always.

David, Greensboro, NC

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NCDave4166 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Fan Joined: Dec/18/2013 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 25	Post Options Post Reply Quote NCDave4166 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Starter removal - 232 with 3spd auto Posted: Feb/25/2014 at 7:51pm
	Steadily working through the '66 Classic 770 I inherited, trying to get it onto the road for spring, but having sat for so many years in a dusty carport it's been one thing after another. Trying to get it home from the paintshop yesterday and now the starter drive has called it quits, even though soleoid and motor are cooperating. Have a reman starter ordered for Thursday but I have a question on the removal. Working in a garage with no hoist (so ideally a top-down approach) I'm wondering what others have done to remove the top mounting bolt. I can get two extensions over the length of the starter but the socket wrench and/or breaker bar simply has no room to swing with the exhaust manifold and pipe in the way. If I instead go in without extensions, I'm so close to the firewall that I have the same issue. Bottom bolt/nut look far more approachable. Just wondering if there's a better plan of attack for the top bolt. Unbolt and reposition the exhaust pipe, perhaps? Thanks as always. David, Greensboro, NC

Charlie Brown Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/13/2013 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 569	Post Options Post Reply Quote Charlie Brown Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/25/2014 at 8:32pm
	do you have a universal joint for your socket set? use the shortest socket and then the universal, then your extention. Marc
	Invest in rare metals, buy a AMC 74' Matador Coupe 06' MINI Cooper 14' Nissan Versa Sedan

tyrodtom Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 6552	Post Options Post Reply Quote tyrodtom Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/25/2014 at 8:41pm
	Put enough extensions together till you're forward of the exhaust pipe and manifold connection. About 18-24 inches.
	66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.

NCDave4166 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Fan Joined: Dec/18/2013 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 25	Post Options Post Reply Quote NCDave4166 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/25/2014 at 10:14pm
	Thanks to both of you. Will collect a few more extensions and also try the u-joint I already have. David

KermitDRambler Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/06/2007 Location: Cincinnati, OH Status: Offline Points: 2579	Post Options Post Reply Quote KermitDRambler Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/26/2014 at 11:14am
	You shouldn't need the u-joint (those are a good source of busted knuckles with stuck bolts, BTW). Several extensions stacked together should give you enough slop to get around the exhaust. Matt
	1967 American wagon http://www.mattsoldcars.com

tyrodtom Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 6552	Post Options Post Reply Quote tyrodtom Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/26/2014 at 5:20pm
	I went out and experimented with my 66 parts car. 18 inch extension, no universal. It put's you right between the exhaust manifold connection, and alternator.
	66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.

NCDave4166 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Fan Joined: Dec/18/2013 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 25	Post Options Post Reply Quote NCDave4166 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/26/2014 at 6:20pm
	I now feel stupid for posting what must appear to be a simple task - been wrenching on cars for 30 years and should have thought it through a little better...... The combination of a 3/8" x 24" extension and removing the alternator made it easy, using the line of sight behind the exhaust manifold. An 18" would have made it a little snug for me behind the exhaust. With the alternator out of the way (and a good time to clean and detail it anyways) there's lots of room to swing the ratchet. What's odd is that removal of the starter isn't even mentioned in the factory Amb/Marlin/Classic service manual? Thanks again everyone. I'm now the proud owner of a 24" ratchet extension. David 41 Nash 600 Slipstream 2 Door 66 Rambler Classic 770

232tough Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Fan Joined: Yesterday Location: Arkansas Status: Offline Points: 1	Post Options Post Reply Quote 232tough Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Yesterday at 3:21pm
	Just to confirm is it possible to remove the 232 starter from the top of the engine without removing the exhaust