Sniper EFI on 195.6 OHV

farna wrote: I have an access panel on top of my tank. Had issues getting it sealed at first! Had to reinforce the edges with bar stock and use a rubberized cork gasket. Tack welded a bar just under the top panel edges (could rivet though... a couple rivets and maybe a relief hole in the top panel and bar so the top lays flat) and just drilled four pieces to lay on the edges of the cover. Tapped the lower pieces for small machine screws. Tried with just folding the edged over, but that wasn't stiff enough to seal even with a screw every inch. Got good at dropping the tank every few weeks until I got it sealed! My first try was the whole top of the tank screwed off, but couldn't get a fuel PROOF sealer. Might have worked had I used bar stock reinforcement around the top like I did with the access panel though. Welding the tank top and trying to seal a smaller opening was a lot more practical though.

This is indeed an issue any time you have fasteners going through and having contact with fuel.  Having had similar issues with the tank in my '57 Chevy, when I did the installation in my Spirit, I created an inner ring from aluminum, featuring blind fastener holes and fuel-resistant o-rings around the holes.

Apologies for this tangent, Tom!

Until an hour ago I was decided I'd more or less duplicate billd's solution in that other thread Frank found -- thanks for that! -- but I stumbled on this expensive solution from Holley, found on Summi'ts page. At $400 it's pricey and I was gonna dismiss it but -- it appears to have a bypass regulator in the output line, an angled sock to follow the old pickup tube angle, lowering the pump further... and has no return line, I assume because of that regulator, and one comment on the Summit site from a purchaser that Holley said no return line is needed -- I'll verify that, but that knocks off a lot of hassle and some cost. So it goes from over-priced to merely more than I wanted to spend. The pump looks like a Walbro.

It certainly fits in the hole, and might work as-is, or require minor bending of pickup and float lever.

The angled sock is a definite win though. 

TomJ -- that Holley unit is so pricey because that angled sock is a piece of their Hydramat. They have a similar looking one on the Summit site (Part Number: HLY-16-116) -- it's $168.26 by itself. Judging by comparing the one they have in the kit with the the size of the fuel pump I'd say it's the same one (2.5"x8.0").

It wasn't until later that the TSMs actually listed the ohms for the sending units... late 60s, maybe by 68? I'd have to look. But they are all the same. The unit actually measures something like 9-73 ohms... why the gauge will read below empty and above full.

I agree that the pump with sending unit and Hydramat "filter" is a good deal -- better than building your own and paying the $168 for the Hydramat "filter" alone, for sure!!