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Sniper EFI on 195.6 OHV
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tomj View Drop Down
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Points: 7544 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/19/2021 at 9:00pm
Originally posted by 1958 rambler super 1958 rambler super wrote:

Tomj, you said you saw water+oil in the valve cover, I've noticed what kind of looks like oily condensation at the top of the valve cover on my 195.6, is that similar to what you saw? And would that definitely meen there's water in the oil? The shop I had do my engine build said they magnafluxed it and it's not cracked, but maybe it was.

I have not owned many engines with cracked heads that actually exhibited this problem. I've seen lots of parted-out motors with cracks (OR HOLES!) and other peoples' cars. Maybe just one before this.

* Sometimes it's really obvious -- it looks like mayonnaise, because like mayonnaise it's oil and water whipped together.

* Before that point, and mine is like this, the oil that of course coats the valve cover (its splashy in there) is... thicker. And a darker maybe, off color. You may or may not see water droplets. Wipe up a bunch with your finger, or wipe out the valve cover with a clean paper towel. if THEN you get more water droplets (it was mixed in with the oil) then, sadly, it is probable you have a crack, or a head gasket leak. Or other source of water.

Some water condensation is "normal" -- gasoline+air burns to mostly CO2 and water. Some gets past the rings. That's why engines had ventilated crankcases (nasty) then PCV. PCV is good. 

But the condensation will be very minor, should be not a lot more than if you breathe a lot on a cold window. 


You can add STOP LEAK to the radiator, it will circulate and do no harm, and if the crack is truly minor and doesn't grow, that might be a permanent fix. DONT EVER LET THE ENGINE OVERHEAT. 

Mine never reached 200F. It runs at thermostat temperature (195F), only and always. I'm fanatical about this. 
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com
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tomj View Drop Down
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Points: 7544 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/19/2021 at 9:07pm
Originally posted by wittsend wittsend wrote:

When I swapped my T-Bird Turbo Coupe engine into my Pinto wagon the donor car had the "in tank" fuel pump. I found that certain Ford Pickup trucks from..., the 80's had an external fuel pump and it works just fine. The system has a 40-45 lb. aspect that doesn't meet the 60  lb.'s you are looking for but maybe there is something else out there. It sits in a metal housing and is wrapped with foam to diminish noise. This was back in 2008 but I think I paid $10 for the pump at the now defunct U-Pick Parts in Sun Valley.


The Holley pump is $240 (Holley 12-920), it seems excessive, I'll look for a similar one. 

Yeah, 60 psi might be harder. To be honest I haven't looked yet, cuz I bough the Sniper on a credit card and I'm gonna pay that off first (December) before I buy a pump. In the mean time I can do the plumbing.
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com
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tomj View Drop Down
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Points: 7544 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/19/2021 at 9:50pm
Summit has a 60 psi pump that's still 5 or 6 times too large, but seems workable. 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-251000

$107.

Reviews are not that great. Would be nice to know more (application, installation location, etc).



Edited by tomj - Nov/19/2021 at 10:41pm
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com
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Points: 4826 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/20/2021 at 8:04am
I'm sure you've read this before but inline or external high pressure fuel pumps do not last long. They simply run to hot. That's why all the oem's have them in the tank. If you do run an external pump, buy 2 because you'll need a spare!

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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1958 rambler super View Drop Down
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Points: 1201 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2021 at 10:58am
I know this thread is about the sniper, but you mentioned the YFA is giving you some trouble, can I ask what the trouble is? Since I plan on putting one on my 195.6
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Points: 528 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pokerchip Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2021 at 4:07pm
Originally posted by 1958 rambler super 1958 rambler super wrote:

Tomj, you said you saw water+oil in the valve cover, I've noticed what kind of looks like oily condensation at the top of the valve cover on my 195.6, is that similar to what you saw? And would that definitely meen there's water in the oil? The shop I had do my engine build said they magnafluxed it and it's not cracked, but maybe it was.

I've had that before on my 196, i changed the oil and drove around for a week and I haven't seen it since.
1962 Rambler American 400 Convertible

1967 Rambler American 440 Sedan
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tomj View Drop Down
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Points: 7544 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2021 at 8:33pm
Originally posted by Mopar_guy Mopar_guy wrote:

I'm sure you've read this before but inline or external high pressure fuel pumps do not last long. They simply run to hot. That's why all the oem's have them in the tank. If you do run an external pump, buy 2 because you'll need a spare!

I have read that, a lot. Haven't committed to anything yet. I'll have to fabricate a tank, not a task I look forward to. But if I can't find indication that pump volume affects it or find some way to have it run reliably I'll have to be more drastic.


Thanks for the sanity check.


Edited by tomj - Nov/21/2021 at 8:40pm
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com
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tomj View Drop Down
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Points: 7544 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2021 at 8:39pm
Originally posted by 1958 rambler super 1958 rambler super wrote:

... I've noticed what kind of looks like oily condensation at the top of the valve cover on my 195.6, is that similar to what you saw?

I thought your car had a flathead?


My YFA is ancient, that's the issue with it. Even so I could exert the effort to go through it and make it good. Instead I'll just set it on the shelf soon...
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com
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Points: 255 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scrappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/23/2021 at 6:42am
Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:

I found this component to use as tank bulkhead
I gave up on "bulkhead" various on Summit etc. None were suitable at all. I can assemble a steel tube to run return gas close to the tank wall.

Note that the thread is BSPP -- British Standard Pipe Parallel.  Have you thought about how you're going to adapt that to your line?

I suggest you search teh interwebs for "npt bulkhead fitting," which will give you better choices than the above.

When you say the Summit results were not suitable, do you mean they were all AN type?  If so, it's trivial to get an AN-to-NPT, AN-to-barb, or AN-to-tube adapter.
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Points: 1991 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbwicz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/23/2021 at 12:18pm
Have you thought of getting a block of aluminum and just making your own 'bulkhead'?  I'm picturing a 1-1/2" square block about 6" long.  Put your supply in the end (maybe bush up to a 3/4" npt so you have a larger tap drill as your supply reservoir), then put 1/4" NPT ports in the long sides of the block to take your supply and return hoses off of.  You can use adapters for the 1/4" NPT to AN or hose barbs.

Mike
1970 AMX, one step forward, one step back. Both steps cost time and money.
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