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Smoking after reassembly, 1963 Rambler classic
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Points: 5458 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2022 at 7:45am
Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

I'd try a quality engine flush first, Seafoam or AmsOil come to mind.
Also diesel engine oils have more detergent in them and excellent wear protection also. Look for an engine oil with a C3 rating.
IMO, it's not going to hurt trying to clean the engine first, before doing a complete rebuild. Just do more frequent oil changes if going this route.


That's a good recommendation.  There is a video on the web of a really tough Ford engine that the owner used Seafoam in the oil and it was truly the  magic sauce in that case.
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Originally posted by mtrosclair mtrosclair wrote:

I’m assuming nobody sells reasonably priced short blocks for this engine…

Correct. Long ago you could order one from Sears or Montgomery Wards or JCWhitney....50 years ago!
If you shop for an engine, remember your car needs the '63-65 block. The earlier ones do not have the mounting "bosses" for the motor mounts that your car needs.
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Originally posted by ramblinrev ramblinrev wrote:

Originally posted by mtrosclair mtrosclair wrote:

I’m assuming nobody sells reasonably priced short blocks for this engine…

Correct. Long ago you could order one from Sears or Montgomery Wards or JCWhitney....50 years ago!
If you shop for an engine, remember your car needs the '63-65 block. The earlier ones do not have the mounting "bosses" for the motor mounts that your car needs.


Is that a trip down memory lane or what!  IIRC I helped a friend install a 235 Chevy remanufactured long block from Allstate (Sears) in the late '60's.  Painted gold of all colors.
Roger Gazur
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1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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Originally posted by 6PakBee 6PakBee wrote:

Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

I'd try a quality engine flush first, Seafoam or AmsOil come to mind.
Also diesel engine oils have more detergent in them and excellent wear protection also. Look for an engine oil with a C3 rating.
IMO, it's not going to hurt trying to clean the engine first, before doing a complete rebuild. Just do more frequent oil changes if going this route.


That's a good recommendation.  There is a video on the web of a really tough Ford engine that the owner used Seafoam in the oil and it was truly the  magic sauce in that case.

I'm wondering if I should to that before an oil change, I'm thinking a pint of seafoam to start and do a few heat cycles? 


Edited by mtrosclair - Dec/09/2022 at 8:43am
1963 Rambler Classic 550
Originally a 196, this one has a 199 from a 69 American.
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Originally posted by mtrosclair mtrosclair wrote:

Originally posted by 6PakBee 6PakBee wrote:

Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

I'd try a quality engine flush first, Seafoam or AmsOil come to mind.
Also diesel engine oils have more detergent in them and excellent wear protection also. Look for an engine oil with a C3 rating.
IMO, it's not going to hurt trying to clean the engine first, before doing a complete rebuild. Just do more frequent oil changes if going this route.


That's a good recommendation.  There is a video on the web of a really tough Ford engine that the owner used Seafoam in the oil and it was truly the  magic sauce in that case.

I'm wondering if I should to that before an oil change, I'm thinking a pint of seafoam to start and do a few heat cycles? 


I think you only use about an ounce per quart of oil when you put it in the crankcase.

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I have certainly put more in other vehicles,  but I may need to read up on it.  That being said the smoking is extreme so maybe a stronger dose is in order?
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Originally a 196, this one has a 199 from a 69 American.
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Too much is not necessarily a good thing. You want enough to dissolve the oil varnish into the oil and not enough to get larger pieces of that potentially getting into the bearings.
Yes, put some in now and drive it for 500 miles. Change oil and filter and do this again but drive 1500 to 2000 miles. There should be a noticeable improvement in 2 cycles. If not, likely need to do the tear down.
As for oil, thinner cold may be better as you want it to penetrate everywhere. A 5W40 C3 diesel/gas has lots of detergent and very good wear stability.
I phoned a Mobil 2020, got hold of their lubrication Engineer, and that was their recommendation for classic cars with todays ethanol fuel.
This was after I found out that the Quaker State 5W30 that was highly recommended for wear stability actually changed formulas to reduce the HTHS and reformulated for better gas mileage. A1/B1 crap!
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Originally posted by mtrosclair mtrosclair wrote:

I have certainly put more in other vehicles,  but I may need to read up on it.  That being said the smoking is extreme so maybe a stronger dose is in order?

Longer, like a few hundred miles is probably better than stronger.  Maybe put some on the top ring through the plug holes and let it soak in a day or two as well. 

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Found the video.

https://youtu.be/agAWXnT4-EQ

I wouldn't use the Lucas though.  Looks too much like STP or Motor Honey.
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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I can’t really drive it at this point until I get the axle issue resolved so it’s gonna have to settle for idling and running up the temperature in the driveway.
1963 Rambler Classic 550
Originally a 196, this one has a 199 from a 69 American.
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