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Smoking after reassembly, 1963 Rambler classic
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ramblinrev View Drop Down
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Joined: Dec/28/2008
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Points: 11538 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/06/2022 at 9:12pm
Blowby will find it's way into the intake through the PCV. It has to go somewhere. It ends up in the combustion chamber. A rebuilt head will often boost cylinder pressure, and cause more oil usage.
A cylinder leakdown test should help figure it out.

What weight of oil are you using? I would avoid 100% synthetic, as it seems to slip past rings easier on an old engine, that doesn't have tight clearances.

Try 10-40 or 15-40 non-synthetic. See if that helps lower the oil burning. Good luck!



Edited by ramblinrev - Dec/06/2022 at 9:27pm
74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981)
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Points: 486 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtrosclair Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/06/2022 at 9:44pm
10/40 rotella currently with the assembly lube from putting it together.  I was going to go with 10/40 Dino once I change it. 
1963 Rambler Classic 550
Originally a 196, this one has a 199 from a 69 American.
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Points: 425 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wittsend Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2022 at 11:48am
FWIW, I had  283 Chevy that had 150 compression in all the cylinders (and ran well) but I couldn't keep it from smoking. The car had sat for a LONG time. I soaked the cylinders in with paint thinner for two solid weeks to no avail. I eventually gave up and did an engine swap. I didn't want the Newson/Pelosi lieutenants turning me in (there is actually an 800 number for doing so) for noticeable smoke.
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Points: 3313 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweatlock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2022 at 12:00pm
I recently saw a Tesla that was smoking, looked like one of the motors had failed/locked up or possibly the regenerative braking system. Probably not what the feds had in mind though for that ‘800’ number 
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Points: 486 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtrosclair Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2022 at 1:11pm
I hope that’s not the case for me…

So the more I think about it, and I haven't had a chance to mess with it yet, is that the volume of oil that is coming through must be excessive.  I think that it must be the PCV or it wouldn't have oil in the intake under the carb, and it wouldn't be even among cylinders.  The smoke it creates is akin to a seafoam treatment so that why i'm assuming direct oil injection thanks to the pcv valve.  

Second update, I went home on lunch to try the pcv thing.  With the pcv disconnected the the smoking seems to be about the same, there is oil inside the pcv hose however so I do believe this is at least part of the issue.  

Unless I'm missing something, worst case scenario would be having to pull the engine back down and hone/ replace rings? 


Edited by mtrosclair - Dec/08/2022 at 1:23pm
1963 Rambler Classic 550
Originally a 196, this one has a 199 from a 69 American.
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IowaTom View Drop Down
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Points: 448 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IowaTom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/08/2022 at 3:41pm
Not what you want to hear but I remember my dad telling me, years ago, if you only do the head of an engine with high miles, you tend to weaken the lower end - and vice versa.  If something is wearing out down there, the increase in psi could exacerbate the problem.

You might ask the machine shop what they used for seals, too.  
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Points: 486 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtrosclair Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/08/2022 at 3:52pm
Yeah, I'm starting to think I should have at least bottle brushed and thrown some rings at it. I am going to go ahead and change the assembly startup slurry of oils that are in there and see if that changes or helps it. 
1963 Rambler Classic 550
Originally a 196, this one has a 199 from a 69 American.
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Points: 11538 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/08/2022 at 8:11pm
When you open the engine up, you'll have to check cylinder wear and taper. You might get by with rings. You might need to bore it and put in new pistons.
74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981)
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Points: 486 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtrosclair Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/08/2022 at 8:22pm
I’m assuming nobody sells reasonably priced short blocks for this engine…
1963 Rambler Classic 550
Originally a 196, this one has a 199 from a 69 American.
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Points: 6881 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2022 at 3:27am
I'd try a quality engine flush first, Seafoam or AmsOil come to mind.
Also diesel engine oils have more detergent in them and excellent wear protection also. Look for an engine oil with a C3 rating.
IMO, it's not going to hurt trying to clean the engine first, before doing a complete rebuild. Just do more frequent oil changes if going this route.
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