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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/04/2021 at 4:06pm
Mine may have been over a year old. It was from a dealer going out of business (by choice!). I could have done something wrong as well, though I'm pretty sure I followed instructions. No one is perfect though, and one bad experience doesn't make the product bad either. I used mine back in 2006, they may have changed the tank liner formula since then as well. Since you had a lot come out after the tank was coated you should be good to go.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/04/2021 at 4:52pm
Yes, there is a drain plug and it's very useful. The gasket will fall to pieces when you take it out though. Easy to replace! Get some 1/16" Felpro or Karropak fiber gasket paper (the most common kind), cut one from that. It's just a donut shape, and super precision isn't required. Make it slightly (1/16" - 1/8") oversized.

Coat it both sides with Permatex #3 sealant. "Aircraft sealant". The nasty stuff that never really hardens. WHat I did was saturate it with the brush, thoroughly, then wiped it as dry as you can get it with the brush (not very dry). Let that dry for half and hour.

Clean the gas tank gasket area spotless, shiny, and flat. Sand the plug too; wya I do it is tear a piece of sandpaper (320 grit), rough out a 1/2" hole, place it on the plug like a gasket, grit to the plug, then put the threaded part into a hole in some larger-than-the-plug chunk of metal (I have an old, clean transmission case I use for an all-in-one anvil and weird tool) and grind the plug mating face smooth.

Install the gasketed plug moderately tight. If it seeps tighten it a bit more.

Overkill? Maybe, but you don't want to end up with gas in the tank and a leaking plug!

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/28/2021 at 4:55pm
So pal, haven't heard from your progress in a while, any new progress?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75Pacer15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/28/2021 at 7:10pm
Originally posted by 1958 rambler super 1958 rambler super wrote:

So pal, haven't heard from your progress in a while, any new progress?


Thanks for asking! I bought an electric fuel pump and drained a whopping 11 gallons out of the tank. Nasty brown stuff. Since then, I've been running the car off of a vodka bottle--that way, I can actually close the hood with it running. That's good, because I wouldn't want an officer to see what my car's drinking. 
I put the air filter housing in place, and the car ran horribly after that, sputtering as I revved it, and I even lost reverse. I'm assuming it's because the car couldn't muster the power to move in that gear. 
I learned that the choke-like thing in the air filter housing was seized, so the vacuum line going to it was effectively serving as a massive vacuum leak. What is the purpose of that choke thing in the housing? 
Anyway, I cut the thing off, capped off the vacuum port, and now I have an air filter directly exposed to the engine bay. 
I also learned how to gap points, which I was forced to do when the old points loosened. 
I bought an HEI distributor, but now it looks like it won't fit thanks to the heater core being located in the engine bay...I didn't count on the distributor cap being gigantic...
I have a vacuum leak around my carburetor due to a big gasket that Pacerman said is necessary to mitigate heat going to the carburetor--I can't find it online, but I may PM Pacerman since he said he may have a couple available. 
I got the accessories working, I'm happy to say, windshield wipers, radio, interior lights, lighter, headlights, brake lights, fan (although the line going to the vacuum reservoir is disconnected, so the controls are inoperable and it's stuck on defrost). I had the turn signals working, but then the plastic cam broke, so I'll have to buy a new one of those. I intend to splice it in rather than try to somehow pull the wiring harness out of the steering tunnel. 
I also have a lot of valve noise due to thin oil. When I got the car, the crankcase was full of gas, and after changing it, it quieted...but now it's thin again, so I think I'll put 20-50 in this time. I had originally put in 10-40 with a quart of 20-50. I'm contemplating adding zinc, since I've learned it's apparently necessary to save the cams on older engines. 
I can't drive the car until I get new tires for it...the ones on it are ancient. Plus, I don't have turn signals. Everything else works, though. I topped off the brake fluid and it's holding. I filled the power steering, which was inoperable, but now that's working, and only leaking a little. 
I'd like to see if I could remove the A/C compressor and open the bay up for maintenance without having to buy an extra bracket for the alternator. 
I've probably driven a whopping two miles on my street since I bought the car LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2021 at 11:10am
That's cool progress man good for you! With my car I have a similar problem at the moment concerning lights, my brake lights seem to be stuck on, with no brightness flashing as the pedal is pressed. 
I'm glad to hear you been keeping at it! By the way, did you decide to not use the plug at the bottom of the gast tank because you thought the elect fuel pump would be easier?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Softbuster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2021 at 11:51am
15w40 diesel rated oil has additives in it for the severe service, which is what is recommended for older engines with "harsh" valvetrain.   I've been running this way for years on all my older engines. 

If you are getting gas in your oil that's a problem.
Pull your spark plugs and see how they look.

OR  has anyone ever had a mechanical fuel pump fail and dump gas into the crankcase??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken Doyle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2021 at 1:22pm
Originally posted by Softbuster Softbuster wrote:


OR  has anyone ever had a mechanical fuel pump fail and dump gas into the crankcase??

Yes!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75Pacer15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2021 at 7:36pm
Originally posted by 1958 rambler super 1958 rambler super wrote:

That's cool progress man good for you! With my car I have a similar problem at the moment concerning lights, my brake lights seem to be stuck on, with no brightness flashing as the pedal is pressed. 
I'm glad to hear you been keeping at it! By the way, did you decide to not use the plug at the bottom of the gast tank because you thought the elect fuel pump would be easier?

Yes, it made much more sense to me to use the existing fuel line coming from the tank. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75Pacer15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2021 at 7:44pm
Originally posted by Softbuster Softbuster wrote:

15w40 diesel rated oil has additives in it for the severe service, which is what is recommended for older engines with "harsh" valvetrain.   I've been running this way for years on all my older engines. 

If you are getting gas in your oil that's a problem.
Pull your spark plugs and see how they look.

OR  has anyone ever had a mechanical fuel pump fail and dump gas into the crankcase??

Thanks for the advice on the diesel oil--I'll put that in with the next change.
The engine was full of gas when I got the car because the needle was stuck in the carburetor, and apparently someone kept cranking it without knowing this. The very first time I tried to start the car, gas started overflowing out of the carburetor into and all over the intake manifold. Since then, I've rebuilt the carburetor. 
Also, I replaced the mechanical fuel pump in case the diaphragm was leaking. In short, I haven't had any gas leak into the oil since I've made these changes. 
Right now I'm dealing with the residual gas in the crankcase that thins fresh oil. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2021 at 7:59pm
If looking at diesel oils for older engines, CJ-4 was designed for catalytic converters on diesels which have a much lower RPM rating then modern diesel engines. Not designed for a gasoline flat tappet engine.
Look for a CK-4 or FA-4 rating:
The diesel 2018 Rotella 6 5w40, higher ZDDP, is not the same as the 2020 Rotella 6 5w40 and ZDDP has to be added to use this oil. Dropped from over 1000 PPM to around 300 PPM now with the same CK-4 and CJ-J rating???. Shell site even states now not to use this oil in high RPM flat tappet camshaft engines.
Research what you use and do that every year as this is a moving target!
Personal opinion!


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