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Renewing the valve stem seals with the head on.

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990V8 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 990V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Renewing the valve stem seals with the head on.
    Posted: Jan/13/2021 at 6:27am
Thought I could do this on my 327.
The TSM shows it done using compressed air to hold the valves up, and a spring compressor.
 
Don't have compressed air but I thought to do it by feeding rope into the cylinder and then winding it up towards TDC.
 
 
Didn't work. Can't hold the valve tight enough against the seat, might have worked with vertical valves but with the canted valves the rope hits the head before it hits the valves.
And the spring compressor only catches about two thirds of the coils, so one way and another couldn't get the locks out of the top retainer.
 
Is there a way to do this?
 
What with the stem seals - if there are any there at all - and the rear main leaking, my otherwise healthy engine gets through about a pint in 100 miles. On the positive side, it keeps the oil fresh.....
 
Ivor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2021 at 8:45am
I've tried both the rope and compressed air with Mopar engines.  I tried the compressed air first and unless you are on TDC, when you pressurize the cylinder the piston heads for BDC turning the fan which you happen to have your hand near.  I use the rope exclusively and haven't had a problem.  Are you breaking the locks free before you try taking them out?  If you don't take a piece of pipe or a deep socket and break the locks loose you will play heck getting the retainer loose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2021 at 8:53am
This style of compressor is the ticket if you have stud mounted rockers, I'm not familiar wit the 327 heads:


I've used both the rope and compressed air method and either works fine, you do need to feed a fair bit of rope into the cylinder and I find the compressed air method more efficient.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rang-a-stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2021 at 10:26am
You don't need much of a compressor to do the compressed air method. You can get one of those $55 cheapie pancake compressors and do it. If you watch craigslist/facebook market place, they show up used fairly often for super cheap. Then, when you are done, you have a compressor, too.

I used an old spark plug, broke off the ceramic, and JB Welded an air line fitting to it. If you want, I will mail it to you to use as long as you promise to mail it back. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 990V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2021 at 11:57am
Originally posted by 6PakBee 6PakBee wrote:

I tried the compressed air first and unless you are on TDC, when you pressurize the cylinder the piston heads for BDC turning the fan which you happen to have your hand near. ... Are you breaking the locks free before you try taking them out?  If you don't take a piece of pipe or a deep socket and break the locks loose you will play heck getting the retainer loose.
I removed the fan belt but the fan really gets in the way when one is trying to turn the engine. I may try taking the fan off but I seem to remember the bolts are too long to clear the rad.
A chap suggested removing the locks by hitting the retainer with a deep socket with a magnet attached, he said the locks will leap out and be caught by the magnet. Which may be so but doesn't help getting them back in.
 
I did manage to loosen the locks, but couldn't get enough clearance to remove them.
 
Originally posted by WesternRed WesternRed wrote:

This style of compressor is the ticket if you have stud mounted rockers....need to feed a fair bit of rope into the cylinder >...
 
Bolt-mounted, held on by four head bolts. If I had some stud... which I could buy... but I did think to make a spring compressor with angle iron, attaching to the head bolts. I haven't measured the bolts but I bet they're 7/16 considering AMC's fascination with sixteenths.
 
The first time I tried I fed in half a mile of thin rope, then I tried with six feet of thicker rope, the blue stuff we call builder's rope. The valve still drops a quarter inch. I should try again...
 
Originally posted by rang-a-stang rang-a-stang wrote:

You don't need much of a compressor to do the compressed air method. You can get one of those $55 cheapie pancake compressors and do it. If you watch craigslist/facebook market place, they show up used fairly often for super cheap. Then, when you are done, you have a compressor, too.
I used an old spark plug, broke off the ceramic, and JB Welded an air line fitting to it. If you want, I will mail it to you to use as long as you promise to mail it back. 
 
I did have a compressor, never used it, so it got sold when we moved house. That was nine years ago and this is the first time I would have used it...
That's a very kind offer, especially considering the postage to the UK.
 
Actually, I do have one of those Mickey Mouse jobs that eventually pumps your tyres up. I wonder if that would do it. Maybe I should try again with the blue rope.
 
Afterthought... Rock sent me sixteen seals... are they really on the exhaust?
 
Ivor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2021 at 4:08pm
Ok, it may take a couple of goes with the rope, it has to somehow coil up under the valve so that it pushes it closed, works fine with canted valves, the robe I've used in the past has been quite soft and maybe 3/8" diameter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mstrcrftr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2021 at 4:42pm
if you have a compression guage, the hose off of that works perfect for this application.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 990V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/14/2021 at 4:28am
Originally posted by mstrcrftr mstrcrftr wrote:

if you have a compression guage, the hose off of that works perfect for this application.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BassBoat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/14/2021 at 9:52am
When I use that style of individual spring compressor, I found that after you engage the tabs, you need to turn the compressor and sort of "thread" it on the spring as far as possible.  this gives you a little more travel to compress the spring.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 990V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/14/2021 at 10:03am
Originally posted by BassBoat BassBoat wrote:

When I use that style of individual spring compressor, I found that after you engage the tabs, you need to turn the compressor and sort of "thread" it on the spring as far as possible.  this gives you a little more travel to compress the spring.  
Thanks.
Yes, I tried that. Helped, but not enough. I think the main problem is the valve falling down. Just that 1/4" makes the difference.
 
However, now I found a spark plug air connector. One has to know the correct search term - Compressed Air Adaptor which I came across in a fancy spring compressor set.
Then we find this https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637204961/compressed-air-adaptor-use-with-vs160 which is all over eBay, and then we just need a 1/4"bsp bayonet.
 
And a compressor.
There's a compressor for sale 35 miles way on eBay, it's 7 cfm. Will that be enough?
 
Ivor
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