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Removing torque tube '65 procedure

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mark_k View Drop Down
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    Posted: May/22/2022 at 11:13am
I am planning on removing the torque tube on my 65 Marlin this weekend to replace the tail shaft seal along with looking to see if I need to rebuild or replace my drive shaft. I'm going to be using a lift to raise the car. Was then thinking of using a trans jack to support the rear diff while I uncouple everything. Then lower the rear end. Does this seem like a good plan or is there a easier/different way you guys recommend? Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gtoman_us Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2022 at 6:17pm
You are on the right path. 
I used my 4 post lift and trans jack under the differential.
Chock the front wheels. 
Remove the rear wheels, emergency brake cable, Pan hard bar and shocks.
Mine slide right out still attached to the rear end.  If you want to inspect the TT you need to pull the 2 TT struts and unbolt the TT.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mark_k Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2022 at 7:12pm
Do the wheels need to be removed? Was thinking I could roll it the shop to make room. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gtoman_us Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2022 at 6:49am
Wheels can stay.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mark_k Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2022 at 6:57am
Thanks, I had just seen that mentioned in the TSM about removing the wheels also. Didn’t know if there was a reason for it or just weight reduction to move it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2022 at 4:05pm
If you're using a two post lift and the wheels won't be supported leave them on. Once everything is disconnected (except the shocks -- they hold the rear axle in if wheels are unsupported!) lower the car until the wheels are on the ground and the shocks can be disconnected. Then you need to push the rear axle back. Safest way is to attach a strap or chain the the axle and pull straight back. That yoke doesn't move -- it may be stuck on the trans and/or shaft (it slips on both, doesn't matter which breaks loose). Once the yoke is loose you can raise the car back up and roll the axle out of the way.

If using jack stands and a floor jack remove the wheels so that the axle can be lowered and moved back.


Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mark_k Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2022 at 2:34pm
A follow up question, will it be obvious if the bearing inside the torque tube is shot? Does anyone have pictures comparing a good one to a bad one? Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/25/2022 at 7:44am
If the shaft is inside and there are no vibrations you can't attribute to something else the bearing is good. It's rare for one to go bad unless the tube has been off or open on the end for a while (got water in, etc.). If you have the shaft out just rotate the bearing. If it rotates freely with no felt "catches" it's fine. Also look at the outside covering. It has to fit snugly in the tube.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mark_k Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/25/2022 at 1:40pm
Thank  you. I'm going into this hoping its just U-joints, but just wanted to know what to look for in case that wasn't the issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mark_k Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/27/2022 at 11:03am
Have about a 2” gap between the tai housing and the torque tube, but can’t get the u-joint to release. Also should the rear tires turn when in neutral? I can’t get them to turn. Thanks
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