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Rear suspension ride is very hard

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DAMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/27/2021 at 5:34pm
When going to disconnect the Torque Links I saw strong contact between the shocks and the beautiful custom 2.5" tailpipes. In the air there appears to be an enormous amount of clearance, bur as the suspension travels it disappears fast. Removed and ovaled pipes. Repainted and hope to install and test tomorrow. 

I bet the Torque Link polyurethane bushings are binding as well. The TSM torque of 100 lb-ft is clamping them very tight. It seems like it is never just 1 thing....


Regards

Dono


Edited by DAMX - Nov/27/2021 at 5:41pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweatlock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/27/2021 at 6:20pm
Just make sure when playing with tire pressures to go by the tire manufacturer’s recommendations. You want to go by the tire spec from the tire mfr., not what you think the tire pressure should be based on bias ply specs from 50 years ago. 

If you’re running radials, go by the mfr.s range for tire pressure - you can go on the low end of the range, but you don’t want to go below that. 

Under (and over) inflating tires carries its own issues, and not just a softer or harder ride. Go by the tire mfr.’s recommendations. 


Edited by sweatlock - Nov/27/2021 at 6:22pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/27/2021 at 10:05pm
Exactly! The tire pressure in the manuals is for bias ply tires, NOT RADIALS (with the exception of about mid 70s on). Radials have softer sidewalls and will need a bit more pressure than bias plys. If it rides good and tire wear is even across the tire the pressure should be good though. Keep an eye on those tires for uneven wear...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LakesideRamblin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/27/2021 at 10:20pm
Dump the torque links.
LakesideRamblin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2021 at 2:03am
Removed the torque links, and the ride is much much better. The rear end articulates much better allowing better traction. The links moved easily as they had a lot of lube, but the polyurethane lacks the compliance the original rubber bushings had. It was causing binding. I haven't tested for wheel hop yet, but I hope it passes the test. With a 2.87:1 and a stock torque converter should help the situation. Thanks!

Regards

Dono
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2021 at 10:17am
You won't have issues if you have the torque links rebushed with the proper rubber bushings and then set up as per the shop manual.
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2021 at 4:34pm
Hate to disagree George, but the original rubber bushings of the 50/60's were a "cutless" rubber and much more of a bearing material then today. Cutless rubber still has many marine applications, but is quite expensive due to the amount of virgin rubber required to produce it.
The rubber of today is mostly recycled and too soft for a bearing application. 
Urethane was developed for racing to stiffen cushions were soft rubber was used before, but it's use, expanding to a bearing material is poor. Example would be on a sway bar you want a cushion. On a trunnion you want a bearing. 
If you want a bearing material in this location with some compliance, acetal, UHMW, even nylon bushings would be a better choice. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2021 at 6:38pm
Back in 1986 when I worked in the parts department at a Pontiac/AMC/Jeep dealership, I saw my first urethane sway bar bushings. They were replaced under warranty because they were being beaten out of shape because of their lack of compliance when compressed. Once compressed out of shape, they didn't spring back, and the sway bar rattled.

It was my opinion then that the purpose of the urethane bushings was to stiffen the suspension, but only until the urethane was beaten out of shape and had to be replaced. In the years since, I've seen nothing to cause me to change my mind.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/30/2021 at 6:33am
A new "rubber" bushing, even if not the original "cutless" rubber (more likely a nitrile or neoprene), will still be better than urethane, which is way to hard an non-compliant. There are some softer urethanes and similar materials as you pointed out. I don't know what the AMC vendors are using, but I at least thought they had something closer to, if not exactly like, the original bushings for torque links. As I noted earlier -- welding up the slotted holes (I'd weld grade 8 washers in place) and running the poly bushings loose (bolts with nylon lock nuts) will control axle wind-up, they just won't do anything for sway control like the originals. The original torque links replaced a rear sway bar as well as controlled axle wind-up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote javtopgun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/30/2021 at 7:30pm
I dont know i did not read all the post but dump the kyb's, hop along with monroe's  rg duty ! help my jav alot !! 
Had kyb's on it and it was a hard ride , infact broke one at lower mount shock to attaching eylet . Monroe's were like 1/2 longer and same at full travel  . the shock on driverside would reach its full travel but the suspension was not !  smoother ride tho , too !   
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