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rear end swap 56-66 Classic

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Buzzman72 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/03/2022 at 8:08pm
Just dealing with a tiny brain phart here...regarding keeping the coil springs and losing the torque tube...

'59 Rambler Super [full-size, NOT American] has a rear track width of 58 inches.

'67 Rebel has a rear track width of 58.5 inches.

Could one theoretically transfer the diff links and mounting brackets from a'67-up big car to a torque-tube pre-'67 big car? I know the upper links use a crossmember. Just thinking along the edges of the box, not quite outside it. After all, what the '67-up big did wasn't much different from GM's G-bodies or the Fox-body Mustangs.

I know someone's gonna tell me it won't work. A good fabricator with a welder should be able to make the mounting points; so go ahead and tell me WHY it won't work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/04/2022 at 7:16am
YES, you can do just that. The distance between the inside of the sills (rear "frame" rails) is about the same -- 47-3/16" on the 59, ~47 55/64" on the 67. I say approximate on the 67 because the TSM lists the measurement between two holes on the bottom of the rear sills, and the holes are roughly in the center, leaving about another inch on each side. This means the crossmember that holds the front of the upper arms on the 67 will fit between the sills at the right place, or close to it. May need a little trimming, but I don't think so. You will have to weld in brackets to hold the crossmember in the 59. You'll see what you need when you take the CM out of the 67. IIRC just a couple pieces of angle welded and/or bolted to the 59 (also 58 and 60-61... would have to look at body measurements to see if 56-57 would be as easy).

As a side note, the same can be done in the 63-66. The difference is the 63-66 is 1-2" (I forget exact measurement) narrower than the 67+ at this point. So you have the trim the ends of the 67+ CM. The 67+ axle is also wider than the 63-66 by about the same (rear tread difference is 1.14"). You don't have to trim so much that it won't bolt in using the same mounting holes, though they may need slotting toward the inside a little. The width difference can be made up by careful selection of wheel offset if using aftermarket wheels. Stock steels from the earlier car should work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paulhvip Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2022 at 9:14pm
is the rear end the same in an ambassador 1964 880 and a 65 ambassador 990
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickleone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2022 at 11:08pm
Folloiw this thread :

Complete Chevy swap Ford rear with pictures

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/17/2022 at 7:27am
paulhvip -- YES. 63-66 models all use the same rear axle assembly, and torque tube. 195.6 and 199 powered cars use a smaller axle (AMC 15), 232 and V-8 cars all use the large AMC 20. There is a difference in six cylinder and V-8 driveshafts inside the tube though. The axles should swap between a six cylinder and V-8 car, but the driveshaft won't. Of course the axle ratios would be different also...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/17/2022 at 11:26am
I've read somewhere, on this forum I think, that some of the bearings of the older AMC20's are hard to come by. Apparently the 66 has different bearings more readily available but I am not sure of any of this. I would think that 65 and 66 would be the same but who knows? 

I stripped an AMC15 axle in my 64 Classic and replaced the differential with an AMC 20 that also had 9" brakes. I have no idea from which car that differential came from. Since then I put in an AMC20 from a 66 Ambassador. It has 10" brakes which are not interchangeable because the axles have different diameters (1 1/4 vs 1 3/8 IIRC) and the backing plate hole spacing is different. One thing is for sure though, both those T/T AMC20's are really heavy. The one with the 10" brakes can be dragged around on the drums, not the one with 9". 


Edited by vinny - May/17/2022 at 10:49pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vince305 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2023 at 10:34am
Hi all I’ve posted else where about an issue I had where after replacing the wheel bearing I DIDNT torque the hub enough and it spun ….. but I had managed to save it but since then it’s spun twice…… yeah obviously I didn’t do a good job 🙁

So I’m now stuck I need to either buy a replacement shaft and hub or change the axle (I’ve already replaced the 6 with a Buick/rover v8 and used the bw35 trans but adapted the tail housing to accommodate the torque tube) (here in the uk amc parts are hard to find or too expensive to ship over) 

Im considering using an independent rear from a bmw E36 for ease of installation or a ford granada (uk version) but even these are getting hard to find but that also leaves me with Lexus 

Im already on air ride just stuck as to what rear to run as I’ll have to change the torque tube no matter what unless a stock axle comes up ….. it’s not being used for racing just a regular use go getter 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2023 at 10:54am
I think I would try welding it on. What have you got to loose?

Edit: I did it years ago and swapped the differential. If I had it to over again I'd get some shim stock in there and rattle on the nut with a big air gun, followed by welding the nut to the hub as well as to the axle.


Edited by vinny - Jun/23/2023 at 11:05am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/26/2023 at 8:11pm
At this point welding the hub to the axle might work, at least for a while. I don't know about the newer model IRS systems. It all depends on how they mount. Most have special supports made onto the body and are not easy to mount to something else.

What about 80s Jaguars? They should be relatively plentiful in wrecking yards over there and are easy to mount.  I have a 1988 Jag IRS in my 63 Classic. Yes, lost the torque tube. I have a Jeep 4.0L and AW4 four speed (OD) auto trans, so had to lose it. The Jag fits IF you use the Jag wheels... or some other deep set wheels. I'm using a set of Weld Racing Draglite dual pattern wheels (Jag uses 5x4.75" old Chevy pattern, AMC 5x4.5" -- same as Chrysler, Ford and big Toyota.. and 99+ Honda Accord). They are 7" wide with 5.5" backset -- the only affordable wheel I could find in 7" with that much backset. With a 215/70R15 tire the axle fits easily.

It's not hard to fit in the Rambler at all. See https://theamcforum.com/forum/rambler-with-jag-irs-take-2_topic80555_page1.html. I'm still running this setup -- 7 years now! It's been to Kenosha and back from Lexington, SC (about a 16 hour drive each way) once and on several 3-4 hour (each way) trips. Just got back from Knoxville,TN, AMO meet... a four hour drive each way. The only issue I really had was that Jag used a 2.88 gear in XJ6s with auto trans -- which most in the US have. I had to get a set of 3.55 gears. 3.31 were used a lot in the UK in manual trans cars... along with 3.058 and 3.54 (3.55... depends on how you round the numbers) gears. I really wanted 3.32, but they weren't readily available on this side of the pond.

The Jag IRS is the same from 61-86. For 87 up the diff is supported differently, you'll just have to look it up! I think the car I got mine from was a 1988 though. Apparently there were still some XJ6 Series III cars made in 87 and 88? The XJ40 type XJ6 got the new rear axle setup. Or I'm just wrong about the year of the donor car, which is a possibility! The yard had it marked as an 88, but it could have been misidentified.


Edited by farna - Jun/26/2023 at 8:29pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vince305 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/16/2023 at 7:08am
Originally posted by Vince305 Vince305 wrote:

Hi all I’ve posted else where about an issue I had where after replacing the wheel bearing I DIDNT torque the hub enough and it spun ….. but I had managed to save it but since then it’s spun twice…… yeah obviously I didn’t do a good job 🙁

So I’m now stuck I need to either buy a replacement shaft and hub or change the axle (I’ve already replaced the 6 with a Buick/rover v8 and used the bw35 trans but adapted the tail housing to accommodate the torque tube) (here in the uk amc parts are hard to find or too expensive to ship over) 

Im considering using an independent rear from a bmw E36 for ease of installation or a ford granada (uk version) but even these are getting hard to find but that also leaves me with Lexus 

Im already on air ride just stuck as to what rear to run as I’ll have to change the torque tube no matter what unless a stock axle comes up ….. it’s not being used for racing just a regular use go getter 

Been offered a Rambler axle woohoo and not a million miles away from me……. But and there’s always a but isn’t there…… it’s from a 58’ American 

I’m sure there similar as in width and torque tube but with leaf springs instead of coil (that’s not an issue) can anyone confirm or deny please 
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