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rear end swap 56-66 Classic

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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2019 at 10:26am
O degrees is bad because the joint ends don't rotate and the needles can be beat flat (or out of round). The joint needs to rotate a bit! So as Trader points out, a little offset like your 1/4" is actually a good thing... Might be WHY you have a little offset, Ford may have offset the diff a little on purpose. "Might" and "may have" because I don't know for sure, just guessing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2020 at 8:23pm
Now once we've installed a Ford axle, now we can convert the Ford axle back to Rambler style torque arm suspension to get better traction -oops!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/17/2020 at 6:36am
The front pivot on those is just a bolt through a rubber bushing. So it won't hold the rear axle in place, you still need two lower arms at the rear, but this torque arm could serve as the third link. To make it work like the torque tube you'd need a heavier crossmember and a different connection at the front, but it could be done. You'd have to build a new or modify the crossmember that comes with it to fit the Rambler anyway. A screw in rubber (not poly) rod end might work at the front...
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cricket Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/18/2020 at 7:56pm
Still working on where to go with my car, and have a question; Since the American was, for all intents and purposes, a slightly shorter and narrower Classic, why not get the complete rear end assembly out of a - say, 1968 American, springs, rear end, etc...drum to drum, and mount it in my 66 Classic? I know the spring perches are not there, and the fuel filler inlet issue, but, wouldn't the "frame" be able to be drilled(for rear shackles), and welded(for front mounts) to make it fit? Then I just deal with the filler neck, and I am good to go. I have a line on an AMC-15, yeah, I know, for a 6 banger, but I am just cruising, not racing, and once it is installed, then later I can make the change desired, if I need more "beef".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote g-man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/19/2020 at 3:59am
That can be done, fairly easily too.
I knew a guy...it has been some time, so I don't remember the exact specifics.
He had (I believe) a '66 Classic, and he bolted a leaf spring rear into it.
I think he picked up a weld-in Mopar leaf spring hanger kit (I think he used an 8 3/4 rear from a Duster) and said it was fairly simple.
I am sorry I don't remember the specifics (I have lost touch with him), but if he did it, you could too.
It's just simple, basic, proper measurement and placement of the spring hanger brackets.
I had video of him launching at the track, so I know it all worked out okay.
If you want, I will look around to see if I still have the photos and specifics.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cricket Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/19/2020 at 7:57am
That would be awesome, Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/20/2020 at 6:06am
Cricket -- pretty much. The rear sills on the American as a piece of tubing in them for the upper shackle bolt. I prefer sliders to shackles, which would be easier in the rear. A couple people have just welded or bolted in a "stop" right next to the gas filer tube that the spring would hit if compressed a lot before crushing the tube. Under normal driving it wouldn't be hit, not at close to stock ride height anyway. One that I know of used Mustang II rear leafs.

Since you have to do some welding it's just as easy to make long ladder bars. For street use the longer the better -- that's why some make "truck arms" instead. I tried some short 30" ladder bars and the rear end just "bounced" too much on some roads and especially bridges. 36-40" are the shortest you should run on the street for a good ride. then you can simply bolt the stock spring seats to any axle -- just drill and tap the tube for the 3/8" fine thread bolt.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 58Ramblr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2021 at 4:13pm
Correct, the C-4/ C-6 and the FMX are quite different transmissions entirely, I believe they share the same gearing, but the C-4s and C-6s are all single planetary sets while the FMXs are dual. The FMX also had a cast iron case, helping to put some of the weight towards the center of the car. While the C-4 and the C-6 both had aluminum casings. The double planetary set of the FMX made it an amazing cruising transmission. I have a 69 Mercury Cougar convertible with a 351 Windsor 2V and FMX, and after a very fine carb tune, I get 23 MPG highway if I drive it like a grandma and about 19 city. However the FMXs can’t handle power which is why you can find them for a dime a dozen, as hot rodders want nothing to do with them. My 63 Fairlane 500 has a 289 with a mild cam, roller rockers, single plane intake and 4V carb with a C4 and a shift kit, the thing freakin flies down the highway, I’ve had that thing up to like 120-130, only thing is the minute I let off the gas ( even at more reasonable speeds like 55)  it’s like I’m on the brake, could be the cars aerodynamics sure, but the C-4 doesn’t like to carry momentum as well as the FMXs do, I get like 10 mpg in that car, even if I drive it like a grandma, but i know there other reasons for that, like the intake. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2021 at 6:10pm
So how did Ford trannys get in here?
Anyway, the FMX is still based on the older model Ford autos, which use licensed designs from Borg Warner, namely the M8 design.  Ford called these the models FX and MX, best of both earlier models mixed into the FMX. That's  why the same rebuild kit works for BW and earlier Ford autos. Ford models have a slightly different valve body and some differences,  but rotating assemblies are the same.  The "C" series are Ford designs not using BW patents/ideas.


Edited by farna - Jul/15/2023 at 1:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/01/2021 at 5:40am
Google "Ravigneaux vs Simpson planetary gear sets" and you have your basic difference between the Borg-Warner/FMX transmissions and the C4/C6/ Torqueflite/TurboHydraMatic transmissions.
Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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