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Question about 69 AMX clutch fork

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troutwilly View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote troutwilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/15/2023 at 9:23pm
Clutch free-play is usually measured at the pedal.  Should be 1/2" to 1" travel until you feel the throw-out bearing contact the clutch.  If your clutch fork is flopping around there's something wrong with the retainer spring and pivot ball set-up.
Bill O.
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mark09 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mark09 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/15/2023 at 10:10pm
The stock AMC 4 spd bell housing has 3 standoffs lengths depending on the year of the housung and clutch linkage. 
For the person with a scatter shield all bets are off. You may have to mix parts. 
My S/CR came with a short stand but with a Lakewood it took a taller one to get the throughout arm centered in the boot hole and operate correctly. 
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mark09 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mark09 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/15/2023 at 10:16pm
Oh! And DON'T CUT ANY HOLES IN YOUR ALUMINUM  BELL HOUSING!!
Just think that is all that's keeping the transmission attached engine. Dump the clutch on a decent v8 and it will crack if lucky or worse be very expensive to replace all the parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ViperFred Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2023 at 8:09am
Thanks Mark09 and troutwilly,
I have added a couple of washers under the hex ball-socket and reassembled the spring, arm, and ball.  I attached a temporary spring to the protruding end of the throwout arm to hold the ball in place until I get the clutch bell crank reinstalled.  My concern is that the throw-out arm is not structurally attached to anything but relies on the spring (between the through-out arm and the throw-out bearing) and the tension of the bell crank rod (another spring) to hold it in the throw-out bearing groove.  In the TSM on page 7-3, under CLUTCH THROW-OUT BEARING, There is a reference to a "wave" washer on the lower pin of the throw-out arm to retain the arm.  In the parts manual, this is part number 3.123-2.  I cannot find this part from any of the typical suppliers.  Anyone have a source? will any wave washer work? It seems to me this washer would wear against the throw-out bearing - any thoughts?  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2023 at 9:44am
3.123-2 isn't an AMC part number; it's an AMC parts GROUP number.

With that GROUP number, you can go to Group 3, then 3.123-2, and FIND the part number in the parts book.
Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ViperFred Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2023 at 3:54pm

buzzman72, 
Wow, thanks again.  
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PHAT69AMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2023 at 6:03pm
It's a 5-part ? combination:
Bellhousing Depth, Transmission Front Bearing Retainer which determines 1 of 2 styles of throw out bearing, the Throw Out Bearing, the Clutch Fork, and the Clutch Fork Pivot Stud Height.

Oversimplified, it was almost a year to year & maybe model to model 'change', oversimplified.
Getting the right 5-part combo is the key.
? different Bellhousing Depths, maybe 2
2 different Front Brg Retainers
2 different T/O Bearings
3 maybe different Clutch Forks
3 different Pivot Ball Stud Heights.

examples:

1971 AMC T-10 Clutch Parts per 1967-72 IPM:

AMC CLUTCH FORKS 319 3954, 316 9944, & 317 3524
were all superseded by 321 7480 by American Motors. 

BHSG = 321 0949 = V8 71 XXX
TOBR = 319 0517 = V8 70/72 ? CFORCE N1491 ?
FORK = 319 3954 = V8 71/72
STUD = 448 7604 = V8 70/71, 3/4" HT
BALL =G169162 NA= V8 67&up, 5/8" Dia
SPRG = X
WAVE = X

*****************************************

1970 Clutch Parts AMX & JAVELIN per 1967-72 IPM:

AMC CLUTCH FORKS 319 3954, 316 9944, & 317 3524
were all superseded by 321 7480 by American Motors. 

BHSG = 3179072 = V8 67/70 10-30-70 67/69 01-50-80
TOBR = 3190517 = V8 70/72 N1491 CForce 1.315" ID
FORK = 3173524 = V8 67/70 Superceded 3217480
STUD = 4487604 = V8 70/71 3/4" Tall
BALL =G169162NA= V8 67/72 5/8" Dia STEEL
SPRG = 3106505 = V8 67/68
WAVE = 3178359 = V8 67/70 10-30-50-80, Wave Washer

==========================

1969 AMX Clutch Parts per 1967-72 IPM:

AMC CLUTCH FORKS 319 3954, 316 9944, & 317 3524
were all superseded by 321 7480 by American Motors. 

BHSG = 3179072 = V8 67/69, 10-30-50-70-80
TOBR = 3207521 = V8 67/69, N1489 CForce 1.416" ID
FORK = 3173524 = V8 67/70, ( Superceded 321 7480 )
STUD = 3205362 = V8 67/69, 5/8" Tall
BALL =G169162NA= V8 67/72, 5/8" Dia STEEL BALL
SPRG = 3106505 = V8 67/68
WAVE = 3178359 = V8 67/70 10-30-50-80,Wave Washer

********************************************
==========================
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ViperFred View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ViperFred Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2023 at 7:36pm
Thanks phatt69AMX, That's great info.  I've ordered a set of parts manuals from E-Bay.  Today, I got the whole combo together minus the wave washer.  The clutch feels good at the petal and the play seems correct.  At some point I may have to re-engineer the clutch activation system as the bell crank shaft doesn't seem to be exactly horizontal, the rod from the bell crank to the throw-out arm is not perpendicular (or square with the socket in the arm) and the bell crank arm on the clutch petal side doesn't mate up perfectly square - all this because the previous owner added the scatter shield and dropped the bracket that holds the right side of the bell crank tube down a little. It may be "good enough" but I don't like it.  If anyone could explain how the wave washer works to retain the throw-out arm, I would appreciate it. 
Thanks again for all the help from the forum. I've kept a running log of the 3 summer (so far) restoration project with copious pics of my mistakes and random successes  I'm trying to figure out a way to post this on a web page; it might help someone else.
Fred


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