Print Page | Close Window

Every Car Has A Story....

Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: The Lounge Area
Forum Name: Member Projects
Forum Description: Are you doing a restoration or in the middle of a major AMC project? Show and tell us about it (*AMC projects* only Please. Others may be moved)
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51248
Printed Date: Apr/18/2024 at 11:06pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Every Car Has A Story....
Posted By: dltowers
Subject: Every Car Has A Story....
Date Posted: Jun/19/2013 at 10:46am

"Every Car Has A Story"....

This is not only the story of a 1974 Javelin, but of my wife, Linda, and her dedication and love for this car. Many have written about their experiences with their cars....I hope that the following pages will, in some small part, give you a sense of the affection that Linda has for her beloved Javelin....

So, the restoration story begins as....

Left the Javelin at local bodyshop to get restored last July, nearly 1 year ago. Shop basically quit working on the car after a couple of months. I recently picked the car up and had to take it to another local shop, hopefully with alot better results. The first bodyshop did very little actual work on the car, and infact broke several parts. When I picked the car up it was in 1000 pieces, parts were thrown in floorboards, in trunk, the radiator was even laying in the back seat. It looked like a jigsaw puzzle, very unprofessional. The had dogs in the shop at night and they pissed all over the wheels, and now they are rusted. So basically the restoration project is starting over. Here are a couple of photos, one taken of what the Javelin looked like the day I left it at first bodyshop and the second of what it looks like now.



-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20



Replies:
Posted By: bikerfox
Date Posted: Jun/19/2013 at 11:01am
Sorry to hear about your misfortune...have you thought about taking these scoundrels to small claims court?

-------------
1969 Rebel SST (1970-1987)
1968 AMX (2005-2011)
1969 SC/Rambler (2011-2019)
1970 Javelin (2019 to ?)"Jane"


Posted By: Wrambler
Date Posted: Jun/20/2013 at 10:24am
If that shop is still in business you should post it down in the yay-nay section!

Keep others from falling into that trap. ouch, you have my sympathy, bummer.


-------------
Wrambler
69 AMC Rambler
4.0L, 5 speed
2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
2019 Chrysler 300


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Jul/19/2013 at 11:45pm

The new bodyshop is now making progress on the Javelin. They have stripped all the carpet out of the car and no rust was found. Still a long way to go, but I feel I am finally on track to get the Javelin back on the road.



-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: amxmachine
Date Posted: Jul/20/2013 at 8:58am
Looks like a very nice solid car. The people that pulled that on you shouldent be in business.


Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Jul/20/2013 at 9:32am
Those kind of shops are unfortunately not uncommon. I hope your new shop works out better.

-------------
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Jul/20/2013 at 10:56am

When the new bodyshop pulled all the carpet out, they found another Car Build Order under the Driver's Side Front Carpet, it was in bad shape, but readable, and the codes matched the Car Build Order that was found earlier behind rear seat springs. I do not know why there were "2" Build Sheets?



-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: pacerman
Date Posted: Jul/20/2013 at 11:47am
I advise you to visit the shop often and let them know that you are interested so they keep the momentum going. Squeaky wheel gets the grease. Good luck with it. Joe

-------------
Happiness is making something out of nothing.


Posted By: 348AMX
Date Posted: Jul/20/2013 at 1:47pm
a year!! WOW. That is crazy. Tools and materials have come a long way, paint booths paints etc. You can probably build a new AMC factory in a year LOL. Probably took them a day to strip the car to how it looked when you picked it up and then they stopped there. It should'nt take any hard working body shops more than a couple months from when they start turning wrenches on it to do a strong repaint with rust repair on a solid muscle car. If it does they are too busy doing other things and or cant handle the level of jobs they are doing. But that sounds just horrible.


Posted By: Ant
Date Posted: Jul/20/2013 at 2:07pm
That car looks healthy. What's the plan for it?

-------------
73 AMX project 401 stroker, t-56 mag
Full-time machinist


Posted By: Mopar_guy
Date Posted: Jul/20/2013 at 3:55pm
Originally posted by pacerman pacerman wrote:

I advise you to visit the shop often and let them know that you are interested so they keep the momentum going. Squeaky wheel gets the grease. Good luck with it. Joe


I agree 100%. I'd show up once a week or at least every other week and don't call ahead to tell them. Just show up. That should keep them on their feet if they care. If no work has progressed, ask politely why nothings done. If it seems to stall because of whatever excuses, just say you'll take it somewhere else again.


-------------

" http://theamcforum.com/forum/hemilina_topic95889.html" rel="nofollow - Hemilina " My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin


Posted By: 401harry
Date Posted: Jul/20/2013 at 8:28pm
Bodyshops who do a lot of insurance work are the worst. They simply want to turn cars for cash, however if you do a lot or all the prep work you can get a good deal. I can do any mechanical work but am an absolute fail on bodywork. I sent mine to a local shop that did about 75% insurance work and had a few restorations underway. They did a decent job getting what I wanted them to do which was a straight body and used good paint materials. Paint jobs aint cheap these days with just the cost of materials well over $500 and my budget job was 3 grand on a rust free car


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Jul/20/2013 at 10:59pm
The initial place I had the Javelin at was the "Low-Ball' bid for the restoration, and I took their offer. But as you can see, it has been a full year (I left the car at first bodyshop on 19, July 2012),
and nothing done. The first bodyshop was not an actual business, but a couple of bodymen who rented a building to work on cars part-time. There would be weeks that nothing would be done to car, and when I asked them about slow progress, they always had an excuse that I believed.
I should of picked the car up last December, instead of waiting 6 months to take it somewhere else.
The new bodyshop is charging me about 3 times what the first bodyshop wanted, but overall I feel alot better about getting the car done properly.
 
 


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: 348AMX
Date Posted: Jul/20/2013 at 11:52pm
Originally posted by dltowers dltowers wrote:

and nothing done. The first bodyshop was not an actual business, but a couple of bodymen who rented a building to work on cars part-time

 

 


Either that or supporting a drug or drinking habit with it.


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Jul/21/2013 at 1:04am
Everytime I would drop by the bodyshop, they would be working on other projects, and seem to completely lost interest in my car.
When I inquired as to the progress, they always promised to work on it "NEXT WEEK".
I kept believing their excuses, but I was too nieve.
I have learned my lesson the hard way, and will be alot more attentive on checking on the car.


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Jul/21/2013 at 9:56am
We encourage people who are buying the cars we do or who's cars we are doing restoration work on to drop by any time. We also send them pictures of progress and send them an email with a spread sheet of the work performed and/or parts purchased every two or three weeks for the prior period. We also only do one outside car at a time so on any given day the max # of cars we are working on is 3, one for each person working at the shop with the work divided by body and paint, restoration and mechanical. By doing it this way there is always progress being made on each car every week which keeps the buyer/customer engaged and excited about their car and keeps our guys motivated.

The biggest surprise about running a shop is how much time it takes oversee operations, do paper work, order parts, drop off and pick up components at the AC, rechrome and machine shops, dialog with buyers/ customers plus the never ending challenge of solving or figuring out how to get past problems/issues that arise from the work being done.

If a shop does insurance work and does not have a methodology/process to ensure that progress is made on each car it is easy to see how things could fall behind on a given car. The best advice I can offer it don't get too far ahead on a payment schedule with the shop. If they want big bucks up front just walk away. We link our up front payment on basically 10% of the total estimated bill up to a max of $2500 and then only charge for actual hours of work performed plus parts purchased during each billing period. There are too many horror stories where the shop has collected all the money they quoted in their price and the car is nowhere near done. When that happens you are usually screwed.

-------------
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development


Posted By: SEdmonds
Date Posted: Jul/21/2013 at 11:17am
I am really sorry you had this mess with the restoration shop.  As others have said, it happens all too frequently.


Posted By: 348AMX
Date Posted: Jul/21/2013 at 12:24pm
I think the way to avoid the "waiting game" is not pay ANYTHING up front. Pay as the work is getting done or not until its completed. This seems to be the same type of problem that people experience with home construction contractors. You give money up front and they show up whenever they feel like it.   We only use contractors that dont ask for any money up front anymore and the work gets done fast and higher quality.


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Sep/14/2013 at 1:48am
The new bodyman is making steady progress on my Javelin. He has sandblasted, painted, and put all new decals in the engine compartment, and is nearly ready to install the rebuilt motor. One of the main things that has hendered his work is that he is having to sort out bolt by bolt all the parts in the mess that he inherited from the initialy bodyshop.

-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: abndanger
Date Posted: Sep/14/2013 at 4:28am
Looking Good Dickie, I would put the engine motor mounts on before you lower the engine. Trying to put the 3 bolts on each side would be a pain. Also, if it were mine I would install new brake lines, repaint the blower motor, wiper motor etc while the engine is out. With everything looking so clean from fresh paint the unpainted area's stand out and draw unwanted attention. She is looooooking GOOD!!!

-------------
" LIVING THE AMX DREAM"
1973 AMX Javelin Pierre Cardin
1973 AMX Javelin Barnfind "Wifes"


Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Sep/14/2013 at 8:22am
No need to put in new brake lines if they are still good.  Old brake lines can be made to look brand new simply by unbolting them from the fire wall and using the red 3M scrubby pads that you can get at any hardware store or paint supply store.

-------------
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development


Posted By: ramblinrev
Date Posted: Sep/14/2013 at 8:44pm
Looks like it's going in the right direction now! I've heard of 2 build sheets. You were fortunate to find them! (Most of us would be happy with 1).
Good luck! And keep the pics coming.


-------------
74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981)


Posted By: JEZZ
Date Posted: Sep/14/2013 at 8:57pm
I would pay big bucks to find one build sheet in my 70 BBB Shadow-Mask AMX. Nice project.


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Sep/14/2013 at 11:52pm
I never knew about 2 build sheets, until my bodyman called me to come look at what he found.
When I initially left the Javelin at the shop, I told him to be on the lookout for the Car Build Order,
and that most were located behind rear seat springs, which is where he found mine and it was still readable.
But, a few days later, as he tore the carpet out of the car, he also found another paper that was folded up, under the carpet, and near the floor shifter console on the driver's side.
It is in rough condition, but also readable.
I found out that this was the Build Order for just the interior components of the car.
I guess the reason the build sheet under the carpet lasted so long is that it was not in the area where a person puts their feet, but to the right, where minimal foot traffic is.
Finding these 2 Car Build Order Sheets, completes my collection of all documentation and historical data on this car that I have maintained since I special ordered it and drove it off the AMC Dealership lot on 19, July 1974 with only 4.6 miles on the odometer.


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: amxdreamer
Date Posted: Sep/14/2013 at 11:54pm
Originally posted by abndanger abndanger wrote:

Looking Good Dickie, I would put the engine motor mounts on before you lower the engine. Trying to put the 3 bolts on each side would be a pain. Also, if it were mine I would install new brake lines, repaint the blower motor, wiper motor etc while the engine is out. With everything looking so clean from fresh paint the unpainted area's stand out and draw unwanted attention. She is looooooking GOOD!!!


I agree, you have no idea what the inside of those brake lines are like. Moisture from years of storage or not changing fluid can deteriorate lines (from the inside) and make them dangerous yet they might look fine from the outside. As you can see on this link brake lines are cheap and in my opinion a VERY worthwhile thing to spend a few bucks on.

http://finelinesinc.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=283



-------------
Tony
Vancouver, BC
1970 AMX
1972 Badassador
AMO#10333


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 12:03am

Thanks for the heads up on the engine bolts, I will mention it to my bodyman. As far as the brake lines, the bodyman has pressure tested/inspected them and thinks they are still very serviceable. The Javelin was in storage for nearly 19 years, but it was in a climate controlled environment and not subject to the weather elements.



-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 7:38am
How do you pressure test brake lines? That happens when you spike the pedal during a panic stop, NOT the time to find out they are bad. Unlike rubber hoses, steel brake lines look and perform great until the moment they fail.

-------------
1940 Hupmobile Skylark
1968 Javelin future Pro Street
1969 AMX 290/auto (first car)
1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L
AMO# 983


Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 8:58am
You can easily blow the metal brake lines out and see what comes out of them. In the desert southwest we don't have the same moisture issues as other parts of the country to the point that some cars still have original exhaust systems.  As for metal brake lines, who's to say they have not already been replaced on the car so a simple and common sense test is to see if crud and muddy brake fluid comes out they when you blow them out.  If yes, they need to be replaced.  If no then they are as clean on the inside as they look on the outside. Rubber brake lines on the other hand are maintenance items and should be replaced same as you would with any other maintenance item.

For new brake lines, there are three different providers.  In Line Tube, Fine Lines and The Right Stuff.  In Line Tube seems to have the most accurate bends and their ebrake cables are done in the original style rather than the vinyl coated after market style plus they actually make ebrake cables for some of our cars that are getting very hard to find elsewhere.  The metal brake lines from the other providers also work well but may need a slight amount of tweaking to fit properly.  


-------------
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development


Posted By: ramblinrev
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 12:42pm
How about posting good pictures of your 2 build sheets? Those things are fascinating to some of us, and help us decipher the DNA code of other Javelins too!

-------------
74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981)


Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 12:57pm
I thought our brake lines were aluminum??

Not a speck of rust and wipe clean and shine up well with mothers mag polish and a rag, without anything else. And that is on the rear with over 20 years of use on the road.

As for the Ford 79 F150 lines they were rusted beyond being used again.


Posted By: amxdreamer
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 1:21pm
Originally posted by Ohio AMX Ohio AMX wrote:

How do you pressure test brake lines? That happens when you spike the pedal during a panic stop, NOT the time to find out they are bad. Unlike rubber hoses, steel brake lines look and perform great until the moment they fail.


I've never heard of that either. How do you simulated the hydraulic pressure? By pushing on the peddle? Again, when doing a proper restoration why wouldn't you spend just a few dollars more and get all new lines and ensure the car is safe? If you just scuff the lines you remove the protective coating and they will just go rusty etc.

When I did my car I redid every brake component and was able to switch to silicone fluid as it was a 100% new system. This way I never have to worry about brake fluid and paint. I purchased all my lines (trans, brake, fuel, vacuum etc) from Canada Line and Tube, an inline tube vendor. Marcel the owner, was great and personally came to my house to help with a problem line and make some tweaks.

-------------
Tony
Vancouver, BC
1970 AMX
1972 Badassador
AMO#10333


Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 1:35pm
Some break lines can already be new and just look gundgy, particularly after an engine bay is spruced up if the lines were not fully removed.  This thread is not about our restorations it is about the OPs car and someone suggesting that he put new brake lines in which is what I responded to suggesting that the old ones can be spruced up to look good as new.  Try it sometime and see for yourself.

I hope to someday see your responses not always trying to be a critique my restorations, none of which you have ever seen when completed.  If you wish to follow my restorations you can go to my AMC restoration shop thread, my facebook page or my amcmusclecars.com website where you can look at what we did and critique to your heart's content. We ALWAYS put all new brake lines in our restorations but this is not about our work it is about the OPs car.


-------------
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development


Posted By: ramblinrev
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 1:50pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

I thought our brake lines were aluminum??


Most brake lines are and have been steel.


-------------
74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981)


Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 1:54pm
Originally posted by ramblinrev ramblinrev wrote:


Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

I thought our brake lines were aluminum??


Most brake lines are and have been steel.


Just odd to me that 71- 74 AMC brake lines clean up easier than a 69 Dodge, and 79 Ford. Haven't messed with GM brake lines, as I never bothered.


Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 2:13pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Originally posted by ramblinrev ramblinrev wrote:


Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

I thought our brake lines were aluminum??


Most brake lines are and have been steel.


Just odd to me that 71- 74 AMC brake lines clean up easier than a 69 Dodge, and 79 Ford. Haven't messed with GM brake lines, as I never bothered.
 
I sure hope and pray yours aren't aluminum! I've seen folks replace sections of brake lines with copper or aluminum bought at a home center and POW, burst that line as fast as they need to stop. Steel now and back then. Different coatings, yes.
I've worked on brakes on almost every brand of production car over the years from Porsche to VW to AMC and all domestic brands. They vary with the coatings used, size, placement, etc. - but they were a form of steel. Even the "easy bend" lines aren't aluminum.
 
How do you pressure test brake systems? I'd have to refer back to my books to get you the details, but I DO have a set of the gauges used in the process! Yes, they are brake pressure gauges. They even say right on them. There's a process.  Professionals even use the gauges to check the various valves and the pressure differential switch trip point.
I "inherited" them from my former boss when he retired. I've forgotten about them, they were in the boxes of stuff we used in his shop way back when.
 
Brake lines in most locations corrode or rust from the INSIDE out. In other words, by the time they are to the point where you can see a problem, you'd best be ripping them off the car!
I use the modern coated steel lines.
By the way, you are supposed to flush brake systems every two years. That was and still appears to be the recommendation. It's in all my college books related to brakes and I saw recently the brake manufacturers are still stating flush every 2 years.
 
Sitting is the worst thing for brake systems. The longer they sit, the more troubles you'll have.


-------------


http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com

http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com


Posted By: mstrcrftr
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 2:29pm
i have a quick question about brake fluids.  i know that regular dot 3 will eat the lines eventually.  does silicone fluid eliminate that?



Posted By: amxdreamer
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 2:53pm
It's moisture that is the issue as heat and cooling cycles will create moisture in any braking system, it doesn't matter where you live. The DOT5 fluid is silicone based so it won't mix with water. I have heard the peddle may not be quite as firm (mine work great) but the fluid will not damage paint. This is nice when bleeding brakes, heaven forbid if you have a leak or when the reservoir lid comes off or seeps around the seal. I know I've seen LOTS of cars with rust under the master cylinder...all caused by leaking brake fluid.

here is a good link to some good information.

http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/fluid.shtml

-------------
Tony
Vancouver, BC
1970 AMX
1972 Badassador
AMO#10333


Posted By: Orchuck
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 3:00pm
I notice the torque converter hanging on the tranny. May be a good idea to replace the seal that has been bearing the weight of the half full converter.
I welcome others to comment on this.


-------------
1969 Javelin SST, BBO, 390, Air, Auto PS/PB, Tilt, GoPac


Posted By: pacerman
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 3:51pm
That's certainly one of my rules. Always replace that seal when the engine is out and especially if the torque convertor is hanging in the tranny. Joe

-------------
Happiness is making something out of nothing.


Posted By: Zioamc
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 6:09pm
when I worked on the line there was a build sheet hanging from the hood and the trunk so when car was done on the line we would tear them off and throw them away

-------------
      .....1969 Sc/Rambler....


Posted By: amxdreamer
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 7:36pm
Originally posted by Zioamc Zioamc wrote:

when I worked on the line there was a build sheet hanging from the hood and the trunk so when car was done on the line we would tear them off and throw them away


Can I have mine back please?

-------------
Tony
Vancouver, BC
1970 AMX
1972 Badassador
AMO#10333


Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Sep/15/2013 at 9:46pm
Dot 3 brake fluid by itself does not corrode break lines. The moisture it absorbes is what does brake lines in.

-------------
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development


Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Sep/16/2013 at 10:29am
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

 
By the way, you are supposed to flush brake systems every two years. That was and still appears to be the recommendation. It's in all my college books related to brakes and I saw recently the brake manufacturers are still stating flush every 2 years.
 
Sitting is the worst thing for brake systems. The longer they sit, the more troubles you'll have.

Excellent points Bill. 

Like far too many things that can go wrong with a car, a large percentage of them occur due to improper maintenance and care by the car's owner and Rambler/AMC owners were notorious for being very frugal when it came to doing repairs.

We don't leave old gas in our cars for extended periods of time without using it so it stands to reason that brake fluids would be susceptible to the same deterioration and ensuing maintenance procedures as any other fluid that sits too long.  Another issue is that rubber seals exposed to fluids in the brake system, and anywhere else on the car for that matter, deteriorate when they dry out from lack of use and will cause lots of problems.  You frequently see the evidence of that on old engines and trannies where the seals start to leak after you bring them back to life.  The same can be said for calipers, rear cylinders and master cylinder seals.  Replacing old parts with seals in the brake system with new stuff is a lot cheaper than buying new fenders, bumpers and hoods that get mushed when an old seal in the brake system pops causing an accident. Moreover, they are maintenance items and should be replaced periodically anyway.

As stated by Bill, reading the manufacturer's maintenance schedules and test procedures for parts that wear out is always a good policy.


-------------
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development


Posted By: Mr. Ed
Date Posted: Sep/17/2013 at 9:03am
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

I thought our brake lines were aluminum??


NEVER! And although there are types of refrigeration copper that will see pressures in excess of 400#, I wouldn't recommend it for brake lines.

Later!
Mr. Ed


-------------
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo "Gwendolyn."
1978 Concord Sport coupe "Mr. Black".
1982 Concord wagon. The Admiral. FOR SALE!
1976 Sportabout X, 304, auto, air. The Bronze Goddess



Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Oct/06/2013 at 3:31pm

New Bodyshop is making progress with the Javelin. They are still sorting out the mess they inherited from the initial bodyshop. Some of the undersides of a few body parts were painted today, wife is really excited to see the fresh "G4 Plum" paint back on her car.



-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Oct/16/2013 at 11:00am
Slow and steady progress to report on the Javelin.
The bodyman has been spending alot of time working on the rear tailight panel, correcting alot of mistakes that the first bodyshop made. He has also replaced the door hinge bushings and aligned and adjusted the doors and I can say that it looks like the doors will finally be flush with the rear quarter panels when closed. For "Years" the doors on the Javelin have stuck out at the bottom when closed, especially the passenger door. I have heard that this is a very common problem with doors on Javelins. One reason is that the doors are so heavy.


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: pit crew
Date Posted: Oct/16/2013 at 11:24am
Dickie,

You have got to be loving the progress. Thumbs Up

-Ken


-------------

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20


Posted By: Orchuck
Date Posted: Oct/16/2013 at 10:44pm
I am enjoying watching your project. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Would it be out of line to ask about the cost estimate for the paint and bodywork from the second shop?
Thanks again,
 
Charlie


-------------
1969 Javelin SST, BBO, 390, Air, Auto PS/PB, Tilt, GoPac


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Oct/16/2013 at 11:52pm
Hello Charlie,
I would be glad to tell you about the cost associated with my 1974 Javelin.
To back track just a little, in June 2012, when I first decided it was time to get the Javelin
out of storage and get it somewhat restored, I got estimates from 3-4 different people in my small town that specialize in restorations. Most of them quoted me a price of $12K-15K.
I had checked with everyday bodyshops, but they were really not interested in doing a restoration, as they mainly like to do quick-turn insurance jobs.
The initial bodyshop was going to do all the labor for $3500, which I thought was a real bargain,
but as you can tell from my above posts, you get what you pay for.
The man that is now working on the car quoted me a price for all the labor of $9500.
For this price he also is going to buy all the paint and paint materials.
I am responsible for all parts, etc, and as of today, I have already purchased about $7K in parts.
Some of these parts were not needed, but as you may know when you start restoring a car, it snowballs and you buy one new thing and that leads to another new part, etc.
I still have a few items I know I will need to purchase, and I am sure there will be "SEVERAL"misc parts I will also need to buy.
I am thinking I will have around $17K-$18K in this restoration.
Which honestly is about 2 times what I initially thought it would cost when the project started.
But, I have no plans to sell the car, and Charlie the satisfaction I am getting from seeing this car brought back to life is worth every penny.
Thanks.
 


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Oct/17/2013 at 12:52am
Charlie,
I forgot to mention that of the $17K-$18K estimate for the Javelin's restoration,
$2K of this amount is for having the 360 engine completely rebuilt.
The engine had never been worked on, was running fine, and using no oil.
But, it had about 100K miles on it, and I thought it best while I had the rest
of the Javelin worked on to go ahead and get the engine rebuilt.
I did not want to have the car restored and looking good, then have to
get the engine rebuilt at a later date.
Thanks.


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: Orchuck
Date Posted: Oct/17/2013 at 10:28am
I should probably revisit my budget, I was planning about 5k for paint.
Thanks again and keep posting pictures. ClapClapClap


-------------
1969 Javelin SST, BBO, 390, Air, Auto PS/PB, Tilt, GoPac


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Oct/17/2013 at 10:51am
I originally put aside $8K, and I thought this would be plenty, because the original plans was just to get the Javelin a fresh coat of paint, fix a couple of places where there were rust issues, and reupholster the front seats.
But once the project started it seems to just snowball and one thing lead to another.
As this is the first car I have had restored, and I am not a mechanic/bodyman, so I am having all the work done by someone else, so I have no idea of the $17K-$18K is more or less
than what most projects cost?
I would also like to know what others have invested in their restorations.


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: Mr. Ed
Date Posted: Oct/17/2013 at 12:45pm
The first restoration that I tracked was my son's '67 Mustang. We put just over 10 grand into that car and got $5500.00 when he got tired of the car.

The Falcon ran about the same and I got $6200.00 for that one.

The Fairlane 500 was closer to 12 grand and ironically I got $6200.00 for that one too.

My other Spirit was the cheapest by far. With the purchase of the car, the '79 Concord and all of the parts and paint, it set me back right at 5 grand.

All of my '65/'66 T-birds weren't much since they were just cosmetic touch ups.

The current Spirit is around $1500.00 and will probably top out around 3 grand when it is all said and done.

None of my cars got one of those multi thousand dollar paint jobs. Maaco does a really nice job when they put their Presidential paint job on sale in October and February.

Later!
Mr. Ed


-------------
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo "Gwendolyn."
1978 Concord Sport coupe "Mr. Black".
1982 Concord wagon. The Admiral. FOR SALE!
1976 Sportabout X, 304, auto, air. The Bronze Goddess



Posted By: gwryder
Date Posted: Oct/17/2013 at 4:32pm
DLtowers,
You did a nice job of putting her back together. Good luck with the project.
 
I feel your pain. I went through a similar situation about 18 years ago. The shop had disassembled my AMX and started some work. The deal went on for a year until the owner called and said he was out of business and pick up my car.
I went down to the shop and pieced my AMX back together. Unfortunately a lot of parts were missing and I suspected they might have left with the Javelin that was at the shop at the time. Fortunately I had pulled the 390 and T-10 before my AMX went to the shop. I towed the car home and put it in storage until I could figure out what to do. My AMX stayed in storage for over 10 years, until I found another 70. The new AMX was the same color, but was a 360- M11. I restored the new one and put the 390-T10 in her. I just recently finished her, but have some tweaks to do.  Below is my "new" 70, 390 4-speed AMX. I'm thrilled to the max with the way she turned out. I almost forgot about all the pain of the first experience. What's really cool, I did most of it myself. What a unique experience.
http://s1256.photobucket.com/user/gwryder11104/media/DSC00462_zps5b5ee446.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1256.photobucket.com/user/gwryder11104/media/DSC00465_zps1a05ea2e.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
 
 
 


-------------
John
70 AMX





Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Oct/17/2013 at 5:43pm
Hello John,
You have a beautiful car, I am hoping our Javelin turns out looking as good.
The experience with the initial bodyman was a nightmare, and to see the car in 1000 pieces
nearly broke my wife's heart, as it was always her dream to get the car back like it was when
she drove it off the showroom floor in 1974.
I am just thankful that I got the car back at all, considering all the similiar stories I have read on the Forum.
Thanks.
Dickie
 


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Nov/08/2013 at 11:31pm
Bodyshop has finished most of the exterior painting of my Javelin.
The G-4 Plum paint looks really great and matches the original color exactly.
The bodyshop says they should have the car completed before Christmas.
NOW IF SANTA WILL FILL MY STOCKING TO HELP PAY FOR THE PROJECT....
 
 


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: pit crew
Date Posted: Nov/09/2013 at 7:31am
Dickie,

It's looking good. Love the progress. What a great Christmas present for your wife and you.

-Ken


-------------

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20


Posted By: kirkwood
Date Posted: Nov/09/2013 at 8:00am
Looking nice- I bet your are excited! Here is the steering wheel you were looking for - I saw the pad on eBay as well.

http://bit.ly/17meQYp

-------------
AMO Newsletter Editor


Posted By: 6PakBee
Date Posted: Nov/09/2013 at 9:32am
Originally posted by Mr. Ed Mr. Ed wrote:

.....None of my cars got one of those multi thousand dollar paint jobs. Maaco does a really nice job when they put their Presidential paint job on sale in October and February.

Later!
Mr. Ed


We don't have a Maaco within 600 miles.  Anyone have any experience with Abra?  We have one of those.




-------------
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

Forum Cockroach


Posted By: Traveller
Date Posted: Nov/09/2013 at 7:40pm
Man, that plum paint is looking good.   I'd drive it.   I really like that color on that body style AMX.   


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Nov/09/2013 at 11:08pm
Credit (or Blame) for the G4 Plum color goes to the wife for choosing it when we order the car.


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: purple72Gremlin
Date Posted: Nov/10/2013 at 1:29am
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:


Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Originally posted by ramblinrev ramblinrev wrote:


Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

I thought our brake lines were aluminum??


Most brake lines are and have been steel.


Just odd to me that 71- 74 AMC brake lines clean up easier than a 69 Dodge, and 79 Ford. Haven't messed with GM brake lines, as I never bothered.

 
I sure hope and pray yours aren't aluminum! I've seen folks replace sections of brake lines with copper or aluminum bought at a home center and POW, burst that line as fast as they need to stop. Steel now and back then. Different coatings, yes.
I've worked on brakes on almost every brand of production car over the years from Porsche to VW to AMC and all domestic brands. They vary with the coatings used, size, placement, etc. - but they were a form of steel. Even the "easy bend" lines aren't aluminum.
 
How do you pressure test brake systems? I'd have to refer back to my books to get you the details, but I DO have a set of the gauges used in the process! Yes, they are brake pressure gauges. They even say right on them. There's a process.  Professionals even use the gauges to check the various valves and the pressure differential switch trip point.
I "inherited" them from my former boss when he retired. I've forgotten about them, they were in the boxes of stuff we used in his shop way back when.
 
Brake lines in most locations corrode or rust from the INSIDE out. In other words, by the time they are to the point where you can see a problem, you'd best be ripping them off the car!
I use the modern coated steel lines.
By the way, you are supposed to flush brake systems every two years. That was and still appears to be the recommendation. It's in all my college books related to brakes and I saw recently the brake manufacturers are still stating flush every 2 years.
 
Sitting is the worst thing for brake systems. The longer they sit, the more troubles you'll have.
x2.   but I cant remember ever seeing or using those gauges.


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Nov/18/2013 at 8:09pm
Update photos on the "What A Mess" Project:
Engine is being installed, rear bumper, trunk lid, and rear lights in place, rocker moldings have been repainted and attached.


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: pit crew
Date Posted: Nov/18/2013 at 8:15pm
Dickie,

That has got to make you and your wife feel good. It progressing along nicely. Looks better with each picture. Keep the pictures and the updates coming.


-------------

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Nov/22/2013 at 10:18pm
Javelin Motor Installed today, just a few vacuum lines to hook up and misc wires to re-route.


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Dec/04/2013 at 1:27am
Project is moving along really well.
Most exterior work completed, except side stripe decals and repainting wheels.
Bodyman sprayed some type of black protector/sealer in the trunk area.
Fuel tank was taken off, cleaned, and remounted. New shocks being installed.
Bodyman even had the original Motorola Multiplex AM Radio/8-Track installed in the dash and had an 8-track tape playing while I was at the shop.
 


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Dec/04/2013 at 8:59am
Looks like great progress.  Too bad you had the first false start.  I get two or three calls, PMs or emails a month with the same situation you experienced.   There are a lot of scammers out there.

-------------
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development


Posted By: 70 Donohue 390
Date Posted: Dec/04/2013 at 11:17am

Almost there-looks great Dickie!!! I've been watchin your thread since I'm in the body shop biz. Your 2nd shop did a great job. As Dan said, there are hack shops allover the world that promise and don't even have the ability to deliver. One word of caution before you have to paint a fender again. Paleeeezzzz put a foamed back fender cover over the towel. Don't ask me what the outcome is when a $2.50 socket hits NEW paint.Ouch There are some really nice AMC Logo fender covers that pop up on Ebay but be sure to put it over the towel. The foam backing WILL damage the paint-especially NEW paint.



-------------
67 Rogue 290 Convert

70 BBO 390 5 Speed Javelin-under construction


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Dec/10/2013 at 8:15pm
Bodyshop is still making good progress on the Javelin.
Repainted the front grill and installed the new signal lights and rechromed
front bumper, new headlight bezels, and put on new plastic black vents on the lower valance panel
It all looks just like new. photo below
He has put all new shocks and tierods on the car, had the brake rotors turned, and new brake pads.
Also, I decided to have him put an electronic ignition inside the distributor cap,
It still looks original, but I think it will perform better than the old points/condensor set up.


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: SEdmonds
Date Posted: Dec/10/2013 at 8:21pm
It's looking great, and you will be driving it before you know it.


Posted By: shelbycoleman
Date Posted: Dec/10/2013 at 8:26pm
Coming right along. The grill looks nice as does the rest of the car. That is good advise on the fender cover. Things tend happen late in the project when it is the worst. It is good to remember that it is a fender, a work bench! LOL Sorry I had to say that as that was one of my fathers sayings I hated a a kid but, understand as a adult body man. You and the wife must be very excited to take it out for the first ride and relive some of the old days. Good luck getting it all finished up. Shelby


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Dec/23/2013 at 5:07pm
Progress update on the Javelin.
Bodyman has finished most of the exterior, now putting on the strip kit.
He has installed the new carpet and front seats w/new original type vinyl covers.
He has finished all the dash work:
(new weathereye switch, dimmer switch, steering wheel, signal cam, and panels).
Refurbished Motorola Multiplex AM Radio w/8-track sounds great.
New windshield has been installed and new under hood insulation.


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: rocklandrambler
Date Posted: Dec/23/2013 at 5:33pm
Looking VERY good but I thought you were going for 100% as it was the day you drove it off the lot. What's with the plum colored (not even Rallye) wheels??

-------------
Past AMC's
1974 Hornet X (new)
1975 Gremlin X (new)
1964 Classic 660 Cross Country
1965 American 440-H


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Dec/23/2013 at 5:43pm
My camera is not the best for taking indoor pictures to show good color.                                              The color of the car is the original color, G4-Plum.
The wheels are the original style wheels that came on the car, and they were painted silver from the factory, but the wife wanted the wheels painted to match the color of the car.
I would of preferred to have repainted them back silver, but it is the wife's car, so her choice.
 


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/23/2013 at 8:09pm
Looks great, love the stripe!

-------------
1940 Hupmobile Skylark
1968 Javelin future Pro Street
1969 AMX 290/auto (first car)
1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L
AMO# 983


Posted By: 4spd_74amx
Date Posted: Dec/23/2013 at 8:31pm
Looks great Dickie!

-------------


Posted By: pit crew
Date Posted: Dec/23/2013 at 8:33pm
Looking great Dickie. Thumbs Up

-------------

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20


Posted By: amxdreamer
Date Posted: Dec/23/2013 at 11:09pm
Great looking car!


-------------
Tony
Vancouver, BC
1970 AMX
1972 Badassador
AMO#10333


Posted By: 390spirit
Date Posted: Dec/24/2013 at 6:36am
Originally posted by dltowers dltowers wrote:


My camera is not the best for taking indoor pictures to show good color.                                              The color of the car is the original color, G4-Plum.
The wheels are the original style wheels that came on the car, and they were painted silver from the factory, but the wife wanted the wheels painted to match the color of the car.
I would of preferred to have repainted them back silver, but it is the wife's car, so her choice.
 


keeping the wife happy keeps the man happy.....

very nice humpster!


Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Dec/24/2013 at 9:37am
What a brilliant and beautiful paint job!

-------------
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development


Posted By: target
Date Posted: Dec/24/2013 at 1:47pm
What kind and where did you find speakers for the 8track? Had to be shallow to clear the glass.


Posted By: FuzzFace2
Date Posted: Dec/24/2013 at 4:05pm
Looking good Thumbs Up
At this point I can only dream of mine looking like that one day.
Dave ----


-------------
TSM = Technical Service Manual

75 Gremlin X v8 for sale
70 Javelin 360/auto drag car
70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Dec/24/2013 at 4:10pm
I found the proper size door speakers on Ebay for $6.75 each.
Ebay item # is 230858594160
Aurasound NS525-255-8A 5.25" Wide Band Speaker, 8 ohm
The size of the speakers match my original door speakers and are small enough
to work with the tight window mechanism.
Also the 8 ohms rating is the same as my original door speakers.
Also, Madisound Speaker Components carries this same speaker.
As I am using the original radio I did not need a more powerful speaker,
but if you are using a late model radio, these speakers may not produce the
audio you want, but they work perfect for what I was looking for.
I found a good set of 4 ohm speaker at Wal-Mart that match the speakers in the rear package tray.


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Dec/24/2013 at 11:32pm
For the 2 speakers mounted under the rear package tray, I bought a set of Boss Audio 60-Watt 5.25" Dual Cone Replacement Speakers from Wal-Mart.
These were 4 ohms which was the same as my original rear speakers and they mounted perfectly.
Like I said, these inexpensive speakers are perfect for use with a 40 year old radio system.
The Motorola Multiplex AM Radio and 8-Track sound great.


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Jan/03/2014 at 10:31pm
Hello to all.
Well the "What A Mess" 1974 Javelin project is nearing the finish line.
It has been a long and sometimes painful ride, but the results have been worth the effort.
The car is now about 98% complete, just waiting on the new rear seat covers to arrive, and a few minor adjustments by the bodyshop.
Below are the latest photos, and first I must offer an alibi, I am not a great, or even a good photographer, and the cheap camera I am using makes the car look dusty and dingy, but this is not the case. The exterior, and especially the interior, looks great and I could not be more please. For some reason, the interior/dash parts look like they are different shades of black, but in real life they are all matching. Thank to all that have assised me with this endeavor, and I will post more photos once the car is fully operational where I can take decent photos outside in the sunshine.


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: rocklandrambler
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 2:42am
Very very nice One thing though. On a few places in the engine compartment there appears to be some PLUM overspray on some of the A/C hoses and fittings. If you clean that off it will be "POIFECT"

-------------
Past AMC's
1974 Hornet X (new)
1975 Gremlin X (new)
1964 Classic 660 Cross Country
1965 American 440-H


Posted By: pit crew
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 8:44am
Dickie, it has been a long haul from where you started and it is scary how close you came to losing the car with the first "restoration" shop. You made a great recovery from that initial bad start and the car is looking good. Best of all your wife is happy with it. That alone has got to make you feel good. Good luck with the finishing touches. Enjoy the ride.

Ken 

-------------

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20


Posted By: pit crew
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 9:38am
By the way Dickie I noticed in one picture that the AC line from the compressor to the condenser looks like it was done with repair type fittings. If you ever want to change that out talk with NAPA or any other full service parts store. The local NAPA store remakes the AC hoses for us all the time and they even put the correct type crimp on the connectors for us.

 

-------------

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20


Posted By: pacerman
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 10:05am
Congratulations on your fortitude and determination to get this car done. It's something of which you can be proud. Joe

-------------
Happiness is making something out of nothing.


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 10:19am
Ken,
I never noticed the hose, and now I see how bad it looks.
Honestly, I cannot remember when the original hose was replaced?
I will change it out as soon as I can.
Thanks,
Dickie


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 10:23am
Hello Mike,
The overspray on the hoses was done back in 1985, when the car was initially repainted
after it was involved in an "East Texas Tornado".
The present bodyshop did not do this overspray, in fact, they brought it to my intention and they plan to clean the hoses before I take delivery of the car.
Thanks,
Dickie


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 10:32am
Fellow Compadres:
I just got a call from the bodyshop, and "Houston We Have A Problem".
When the bodyshop cranked the Javelin this morning, there is a loud knocking
noise coming from the lower part of the engine.
The bodyman says he will probably have to remove the engine to see what is the problem,
and this entails removing all the newly painted parts, etc.
I am on my way to the shop to see what is going on.
If you remember, this bodyshop did not rebuild the engine, but the initial bodyshop did.
I will update in a little while.
Maybe I can find a "Liquor Store" on the way.
Thanks,
Dickie
 
 


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: pit crew
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 10:33am
Originally posted by dltowers dltowers wrote:

The present bodyshop did not do this overspray, in fact, they brought it to my intention and they plan to clean the hoses before I take delivery of the car.
Dickie, it sounds like even though this is their first ever AMC your current bodyshop is trying hard to do a good job.


-------------

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 10:44am
Ken,
I could not be more proud of the job the present bodyshop has done, considering the state of the Javelin when they received it, several boxes/tubs of you name it parts, etc.
Most bodyshops would not of taken the car in the shape it was in, and I feel really fortunate that this shop is doing the best they can.
This bodyshop communicates with me all the time, unlike the initial bodyshop which I never heard from for weeks at a time, nor did they have the professional courtesy to even return my phone calls.
Having this engine issues does not surprise me, and in fact, the wife and I have talked many times and wonder what kind of job the initial bodyshop done on the engine.
The man that runs the present bodyshop is semi-retired, but owned/operated a Corvette Restoration shop in Wylie, Texas for about 38 years.
Thanks to everyone for your continued support and encouragement.
I will update as soon as I know more.
Dickie


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: pit crew
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 10:59am
With so many different reasons for engine noise and the fact the first shop proved to be so unreliable this may be a blessing in disguise. It may be far better now to have someone you can trust go through the engine than to have it fail for you out on the road somewhere. I would not want to read about some husband and wife passing away somewhere out in the deep Texas desert because their classic car broke down. (A small attempt at humor.)


-------------

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20


Posted By: 70amcpwr
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 11:12am
Looks great, congratulations on finally reaching the end. One nit picky little thing that drives me nuts....routing of spark plug wires... it an really make a nice engine bay look messy in my opinion.







-------------
70amcpwr You just can't fix stupid.
SOLD 1970 BBO Javelin, wifes 73 AMX 360 4spd. Next project 1969 AMX


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 12:06pm
Ken,
You are exactly right about making sure the engine is doing correctly.
At least this way, I will have piece of mind and hopefully the car will be more reliable.
Here is what the machine shop did to the engine:
Cam Bearings Installed, Vat Cleaned, Pistons Pressed, Block Bored, Valve Job, Crank Polished, Freeze Plugs Installed.
Engine was bored 30 over.
The Rebuild kit was from O'Reilly's and had:
Pistons, Rings, Camshaft, Lifters, Freeze Plugs, Timing Set, Oil Pump, Rod Main and Cam Bearings.
I am going to talk with the bodyman and tell him your recommendation on removing the oil pan
without removing the engine.
Thanks,
Dickie


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: dltowers
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 12:09pm
Hello Rick,
You car looks great.
You are so correct about the plug wires, I plan to make sure the ones on the Javelin are condensed and routed in a uniform manner.
Still alot of minor detailing to do on my Javelin, and now the engine issue, but if you knew the whole history of the restoration, you would not be surprised about the engine maybe having a problem.
Thanks.


-------------
Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20


Posted By: 70amcpwr
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 12:21pm
I actually followed your dilemma and feel your pains. I posted the wire recommendation a little prematurely I  guess (unfortunately for you)Unhappy


-------------
70amcpwr You just can't fix stupid.
SOLD 1970 BBO Javelin, wifes 73 AMX 360 4spd. Next project 1969 AMX


Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Jan/04/2014 at 12:42pm
Originally posted by dltowers dltowers wrote:

Fellow Compadres:
I just got a call from the bodyshop, and "Houston We Have A Problem".
When the bodyshop cranked the Javelin this morning, there is a loud knocking
noise coming from the lower part of the engine.
The bodyman says he will probably have to remove the engine to see what is the problem,
and this entails removing all the newly painted parts, etc.
I am on my way to the shop to see what is going on.
If you remember, this bodyshop did not rebuild the engine, but the initial bodyshop did.
I will update in a little while.
Maybe I can find a "Liquor Store" on the way.
Thanks,
Dickie
 
 

Hard to imagine a knocking noise from the new bearings but not hard to image a knockin noise coming from too much thrust bearing clearance or from a something not right in whatever tranny input shaft and/or clutch setup you have.  Be sure to check external bolted on stuff before tearing the engine apart.  


-------------
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net