Silver '68 - The Project Update
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Forum Name: Member Projects
Forum Description: Are you doing a restoration or in the middle of a major AMC project? Show and tell us about it (*AMC projects* only Please. Others may be moved)
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Topic: Silver '68 - The Project Update
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Subject: Silver '68 - The Project Update
Date Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 9:38am
Welcome to a new Forum project car, a 1968 AMX 390 owned by member Will Cook. When I first saw pics of the car I was immediately taken with its striking color combination, Turbo Silver with a red interior and black stripes. It's a highly optioned car as well, should be a fun project!
 Will and friend Don Bangs arrived with the car very early last Saturday. Covered in frost it looked like a near perfect show car, but as the ice melted I began to see the many paint issues Will had described in his emails. At some point there was a serious lack of prep resulting in the paint lifting in areas all over the car! This is probably the worst spot:
 Most of it looks more like this:
 The AMX had also been hit in the rear end at some point, it wasn't fixed properly causing a misalignment of the tail light panel in relation to the bumper brackets. The front core support is tweaked also, it may have happened at the same time. So along with some minor rust there is lots to fix!
   The past few days have been spent carefully removing the exterior trim, along with the hood and trunk lid. The most time consuming part is cleaning, boxing and storing the parts as they come off the car. I also bag and label every bolt and screw, even if they wont be reused. Most of the interior will also be removed in order to keep it clean and safe.
  I have already noticed some missing parts and a bunch of incorrect fasteners, things that will be handled during the very detailed reassembly. More updates to follow...
 ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Replies:
Posted By: 72Javelin
Date Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 2:32pm
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That's a very different look for an AMX---steelies w/dog dishes! ------------- Jeff Reeves Auburn, GA AMO Technical Editor Currently AMC-less after 30+ years |
Posted By: amcrules00
Date Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 6:29pm
| Very striking color combo, looks pretty solid and complete? Resto should be pretty straight forward. too. Ditto, love the steel and dog dish combo too. Good luck with it, keep us posted on your progress. |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 9:30pm
The condition of the body is remarkably similar to what I started with on the pink AMX, so I'm confident this one will turn out just as nice! ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
amcrules00 wrote:Posted By: 0069X
Date Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 9:44pm
| Looks really nice Scott, How many 2 seaters in your collection now? |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 9:54pm
Mike, this one's just a guest. I only own the one 290/auto 2-seater now. ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: 0069X
Date Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 10:03pm
Where's Pinky? |
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 10:23pm
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Silver car, 4 Speed or Auto ? Visibility Group / Electric Wipers ? A/C, P/S, P/B, Tilt, Leather, Go Pack ? -------------  Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 10:50pm
Let's see... 390, automatic, GO Package, visibility group, tilt, rally pack, PS, PB, I think that's everything!  ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: 1970390amx
Date Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 11:50pm
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So whats the game plan for this car? Ground up restoration, paint, clean up the problems. ------------- 1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX 1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Nov/20/2010 at 11:42am
That't pretty much it. We're planning a makeover similar to how I did the pink one, including stripping and straightening out the body, resealing and detailing the engine, all new paint and a lot of final detailing! The interior and bumpers are already done so they will be reinstalled as is. ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Nov/21/2010 at 10:21pm
We're about a week into the project now. Today I pulled the engine and trans and finally got a good look at the underside of the car which is completely rust free.  The nice thing about re-restoring a car is that everything comes apart real easilly, no rusted or rounded off bolts to deal with! Here are a couple of current pics (after I cleaned up the mess!)
  ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Nov/24/2010 at 6:59pm
Almost ready to degrease the engine compartment. Today I removed the wiring, washer bag, speedo cable, most of the brake lines and the brake booster/master cylinder. Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
 ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: will333
Date Posted: Nov/24/2010 at 7:12pm
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There's much to be thankful for this year, no doubt. I'm very thankful that I'm able to have Scott do this restoration. It's looking good. ------------- 1968 AMX 390 Automatic Turbo Silver outside, red on the inside "The Orbiter" A Scott Campbell restoration |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Nov/26/2010 at 7:23pm
Today was sunny and nice (for late November), a great day to roll the AMX outside and scrub the engine compartment. It cleaned up so well I may not even repaint it!
 Just kidding Will! There is lots of paint damage over on the other side from a leaking master cylinder, plus when this area was repainted at some point there wasn't a lot of care taken so there is silver paint sprayed on the crossmember, strut rod brackets, etc. Even the brake distribution block was painted over! Careless masking is a pet peeve of mine.
 As a 1968, this AMX has a black painted engine crossmember, that and a coating of oil has kept it in really nice condition, along with the sway bar with its yellow identification mark still visible on top.
  ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Nov/28/2010 at 2:49pm
Today's task was removing the exhaust and rear air shocks. I also removed the wheels and tires to stow in the house where they will stay clean and safe.
 ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: Nov/28/2010 at 7:28pm
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Pipes, left is right and right is left, correct ? Man, those mid-pipes look restrictive...... ------------- Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Nov/28/2010 at 9:55pm
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Phat, you are correct on them being swapped. The system is actually bent nicely but they have gotten pretty rusty. But they aren't going back on anyway.
The original front pipe on my 304 Hornet AMX is really restricted, easily 50%. ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Nov/29/2010 at 8:17pm
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Today I started to remove the wiring. Unlike the newer AMCs which have a nifty connector on the firewall, an early AMX requires the entire wiring harness to be removed in order to properly refinish the engine compartment. Not one of their better ideas. All of the gauges, radio, etc have been removed, wrapped in soft towels and boxed for safe keeping. The main harness is almost ready to come out and I can already see that the underhood part will need some work. Before I put the car up on jack stands to begin stripping it I decided it would be a good idea to pull the right side of the tail light panel where it was bent in at the top. This problem had caused the center reflector and right tail light to be misaligned with the bumper and trunk lid:  I gave this a lot of thought because I didn't want to kink the trunk seal channel or cause additional damage by pounding on the tail light panel from inside the trunk. I ended up attaching a section of 2x4 using the reflector holes, then inserting a piece of steel channel on top of the wood. I then attached one end of a comealong to this channel, and the other end to a nice solid object, my F350 ramp truck.  Blocking all four wheels of the AMX kept it in place while I carefully pulled the tail light panel with the comealong, using a couple different holes in the channel as needed. It worked even better than I had hoped! It's now nice and straight which will definitely look and seal a lot better.
 As you can see above there is a crappy weld on the trunk lip which was Bondoed over. This too will be repaired properly. In fact the entire tail light panel was really just roughed out and never finished since most of it doesn't show. That just wont do this time! ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: fast401
Date Posted: Nov/29/2010 at 8:24pm
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Very nice work! ------------- Disturbing the peace since 1970!!! AMX 19245 Facebook page - AMC Nation www.fast-401.4t.com |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/02/2010 at 9:03pm
We're finally getting some cold weather here so today I decided to roll the AMX into the work room I have walled off from the rest of the barn. Definitely not as much room to move around but at least it can be heated. Of course it will also contain most of the dust once I begin stripping the paint. And in preparation for this, today I removed the GO Package stripes from the roof and behind the rear window. A heat gun allowed them to peel right off leaving only the glue behind.
 I also did some more work in the engine compartment. I found some rust when I removed the cowl seal but it will be pretty easy to repair. Next I decided to remove the strut rods and brackets. Well at some point one of the top bolts was severely overtorqued, actually drawing the head of the bolt half way through the thick flat washer! A thin wall socket just barely grabbed the very top of the hex but because the bolt was so tight it pretty quickly rounded it off. I was finally able to loosen it by clamping Vice Grips to the bolt and after a few turns of the nut enough of the bolt was exposed to remove it. So the strut rod brackets went from a 15 minute job to a 90 minute job, and now we have more replacement parts to locate:
 But hey, this was the first thing on the project to fight me!  ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/06/2010 at 6:30pm
Yesterday my helper stopped by so we finished removing the wiring harnesses and steering column. Definitely a lot easier with two people, one outside and one inside. That just left the wiper motor, but the clip that connects it to the linkage is mostly rusted away. Luckily it can be removed as a unit. Luckier still a brand new wiper motor arrived today!
 With so many brackets and reinforcements under the dash I have learned to wedge pieces of cardboard under there in order to seal all of the new holes in the firewall. This will keep out the dust and overspray.
 With the AMX now sufficiently disassembled it was time to begin stripping the paint! I began with some suspected problem areas which will need repairs. First up, lower quarters.
 The passenger's side has a fairly large patch which was expected. There is new rust around the lower edges and even some rust perforation through the patch. In order to conceal the repair someone used a heavy coat of filler all the way up to the body line. It took well over an hour to grind all of this away, but now I can see where the good original metal ends.
 Moving to the driver's side produced another heavy coat of filler, more than 1/4" thick in most places. There was apparently some collision damage here which, combined with rust patches, has produced this ugly scar. This will all be taken out and replaced with new lower quarters!
 More to come later...
------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/07/2010 at 5:00pm
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I spent this morning clearing a foot of snow from the driveway, then got back to work.
My next area of concern on the body was the lower corners of the rear window. This is a problem area on these cars and someone had already done a quickie rattle can touch-up here, so I wondered what I would find. I still worried as I began grinding and hit red glazing putty. But, thankfully this area has survived with no rust through, only pitting from some serious surface rust. After cleaning it up better a base coat of POR15 will ensure the it will not return.
 Next up was to remove both front fenders. They had been off before, and someone used some type of sprayed on black coating on the gussets (which are perfect) and underside of the fenders. It has held up fine so I think we'll leave it there. I did find a critter nest on the left side so I'm glad I pulled the fenders!
  ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Dec/10/2010 at 5:31pm
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Looks excellent.
I actually had the pleasure of seeing and driving Will's car earlier this year and found the interior to be exceptional and one of the nicest I have seen. It was definitely a car worth spending the money on to make the outside as nice as the inside.
I am always amazed to see a car that some prior owner had painted but didn't spend the time or effort necessary to do it right the first time. With any paint job there is always the remote possbility of solvent pop if the paint was not mixed right or multiple coats were applied improperly but in this case it was obvious that the underlying issue was plain old improper preparation before the car was previously painted. Nonetheless, the paint on the car actually looked really good other than the issues shown in the pictures that got more pronounced the closer you got to the car.
When finished, the car will no doubt be a real head turning show winner. ------------- Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development 
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Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/13/2010 at 5:34pm
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Today we're battling another winter storm with several inches of new snow being blown around by gusty winds. After the fun of clearing the driveway again with a sub-zero wind chill, it was back to work on the AMX! I have been spending quite a bit of time in the trunk, basically finishing the prior repairs to the floor and tail light panel. AMC didn't finish the trunk area as nicely as the rest of the car. Sloppy seam sealer and paint runs were the order of the day as it really didn't matter back then. My goal is to make the trunk floor look like it's never been messed with, not over restored, just new looking. I began by sanding away all of the speckle trunk paint someone put there, did just a little metal straightening, then put down a base coat of POR15 in the problem areas. I followed this with a thin coat of filler, just enough to smooth things out but NOT make them straighter than they were when new. In these pics it isn't even sanded yet. Of course all of this work will be hidden by the trunk mat but to me that's no excuse to cut corners like someone did last time!
  ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: AM XTASY
Date Posted: Dec/13/2010 at 5:53pm
| I just finished work on a 40 Chevy business coupe which had similar paint problems, turns out who ever did the prior work just slapped bondo over the rust and then painted it causing it to bubble and flake. The sad thing about the car was the owner didn't have the money to have us do it correctly so I should be seeing it again with in a year or so to hopefully do it correctly. |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/15/2010 at 7:26pm
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Today I spent some more time sanding inside the trunk. The floor is just about finished and the tail light panel is close. After applying a second coat of filler in places, I moved to the engine compartment. I had mentioned earlier finding some rust on the cowl. As we all know AMC painted our cars with the metal cowl seal retainer band in place. This of course means no paint behind it, only primer, so rust behind the cowl seal is fairly common. This AMX is no exception:  After stripping the paint I even found an earlier rust repair, although the rest of the rust was just painted over. Not this time, this deep pitting just begs for an application of POR Patch to stop any further rusting and to fill in the pits. Again this area really doesn't show when the car is finished but that doesn't matter.  Today I also stripped the very top of the inner fenders. When I had an AMX painted back in the '80s the shop repaired my "troughs", then coated them and the inner fender flanges with some tar-like stuff. Unfortunately the fenders didn't cover all of it and eventually it cracked and discolored the paint. Now I am careful to completely strip and paint this area since it is so noticable when the car is finished and the hood is open!
 ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: mopar63
Date Posted: Dec/16/2010 at 3:15am
looks like a bit of fun , these pics will very helpful to me as I'm about to purchase a '69 AMX that has been stripped and sandblasted and is in 2 million bits ,that silver sure is quite a neat colour
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Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/17/2010 at 7:09pm
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Thanks for following along, and all of the positive comments.
Yesterday we drove to American Parts Depot to pick up the new rear leaf springs, lower quarters and a zillion little parts that we will need to reassemble the AMX. Doug had all of the parts pulled and waiting for us, and even treated me to a tour of the new mezzanine he built to store all of his NOS parts. If you've never visited APD it's really something to see, almost like traveling back in time to a very well stocked dealership!
  Today it was back to work. The trunk is basically finished, at least as far as it can be until the quarters are repaired, so I moved back up front to the engine compartment. I pulled both hood hinges which appear to have never been removed before by the lack of paint underneath.
 They will be repainted in place along with the engine compartment so the hardware doesn't get chipped, but at least there wont be rust behind them! As you can see the top of the hinges are also rusty since the hood was bolted to them before the original paint was sprayed. These will be blasted and primed before reinstallation.
 I also applied a thick coat of Por Patch to the pitted metal behind the cowl seal. This will ensure the rust does not return, and after some prep this area will look just like new.
  Por Patch is not cheap, about $18.00 a tube, but it works great so I use it a lot. It can be sanded pretty easily so it makes a great base if there was any surface rust present.
------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: nosparts
Date Posted: Dec/17/2010 at 7:23pm
| Your car looks great.Looks like you are having a lot of fun with it. The apd shop looks awesome where is it located and do you have a # for them |
Posted By: amcrules00
Date Posted: Dec/17/2010 at 7:28pm
| Geesh O Man! Thanks for the APD tour shots. For Christ sakes, the place place looks like a vacation destination. Screw Disneyland, I'm going to APD from now on. LOL |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/17/2010 at 10:27pm
APD is in West Manchester, Ohio, not too far from Dayton.
http://www.americanpartsdepot.com/index.htm - http://www.americanpartsdepot.com/index.htm
amcrules00, that is only a small part of the place, there's also a warehouse and about 180 parts cars out back! ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: AM XTASY
Date Posted: Dec/18/2010 at 5:24pm
Throw some bikini clad women in there and thats about as close as you can get to heaven on earth |
Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Dec/18/2010 at 7:39pm
you mean something like this?
 censored by a grossed out will333
 ------------- Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Posted By: amcrules00
Date Posted: Dec/18/2010 at 8:14pm
| Was that from last nights pool party at your house Dan? |
Posted By: will333
Date Posted: Dec/18/2010 at 8:31pm
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Well that pretty nasty. How 'bout getting rid of that Dan? It's not like anybody really wants to look at that. ------------- 1968 AMX 390 Automatic Turbo Silver outside, red on the inside "The Orbiter" A Scott Campbell restoration |
Posted By: xjunkie
Date Posted: Dec/18/2010 at 9:05pm
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I've never used the POR Patch but I believe I would cut out that rust in the cowl seal area. Some one already braised up a hole there, and you can see another in the Pic., might be time for a little metal replacement. |
Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Dec/18/2010 at 9:41pm
 ------------- Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
|
Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Dec/18/2010 at 9:41pm
------------- Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
|
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/19/2010 at 2:26pm
Good eyes xjunkie, it was more of a crack than a hole but there are a couple of reasons why I chose to repair this area with Por Patch as opposed to welding it. The biggest reason of course is the location of the problem area. Since we could not weld onto the previous repair this entire section would have to be cut out and replaced. In my opinion it would be very difficult to fabricate a curved, right angle patch to fit this area. Even if a patch could be cut from a non-rusted parts car there would still be beads of weld which would have to be ground and then hammered in order to be even with the rest of the cowl, then body filler would still be needed to complete the repair. Being this close to the cowl vent grille would also complicate the process, so in cases like this I embrace a product like Por Patch which will permanently stop the rust as well as filling the pits or even tiny holes. To me it's the best way to make it look perfect.
Of course if this area was farther from the wiper motor hole this type of repair would not be possible, but since both sides of this area can be coated with Por Patch it will truly be as good as new when finished. It is NOT like hiding rust under regular body filler then waiting for it to return! Body shops are now gluing on entire quarter panels, and while I would still shy away from that type of repair, using a proven product like Por Patch for a small fix like this makes good sense. Here is the same area after a single application:
 I also expected to find some rust underneath the battery tray since pitting could be seen through the thick paint. I spent some time stripping the entire area and thankfully there is no perforation here at all, just a lot of surface rust which will also be treated with POR15. One of the welded nuts was already missing since the battery tray has been changed, but I was surprised to see that slot in the subframe, it seems like these are usually welded up on other cars I have worked on.  Back to work tomorrow! ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Dec/19/2010 at 8:04pm
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That area below the battery looks great compared to some of the disasters I have seen in the same area.
As for the cowl, I would most certainly just braze in new metal to fill the pin holes long before I would ever consider replacing the entire cowl section. After brazing in the "filler" metal, it is very easy and straight forward to grind the braze down smooth and then never have to worry about it again. It is very similar to the brazed metal that AMC used to connect the rear lower section of the front fenders to the rocker panel on AMXs and Javelins. I have permanantly fixed a mulitude of Swiss cheese cowels and areas under the windshield trim with braze over the years. ------------- Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/20/2010 at 3:21pm
Just a quick update today after applying the POR15 to the battery box area. I also pulled the steering box revealing the hidden VIN, and yes it matches the tags!
  ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: amcrules00
Date Posted: Dec/20/2010 at 4:11pm
| Always a plus, huh? |
Posted By: will333
Date Posted: Dec/20/2010 at 4:51pm
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Put's a smile on my face. ------------- 1968 AMX 390 Automatic Turbo Silver outside, red on the inside "The Orbiter" A Scott Campbell restoration |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/23/2010 at 3:57pm
After hours of hand sanding, today I masked and primered the engine compartment. This is the way it will stay for a while as it wont be painted the body color until the fenders are back on. That way I can paint right up onto the fender bolts.
  ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: bigbad69
Date Posted: Dec/24/2010 at 11:26am
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Is that the factory paint on the crossmember? If it is, it looks like the crossmember was painted after the engine mounts were installed.
------------- 69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10 |
Posted By: RSX 401
Date Posted: Dec/24/2010 at 3:46pm
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First of all, excellent work you're doing to detail the AMX. Now, I have a couple of questions. I am a believer in the POR 15 products. When using the POR 15 under the filler, have you experienced any problems with adhesion? I know it dries hard and is difficult to sand to give the surface "tooth". How do you deal with it?Have you ever used a product called OSPHO to remove rust? ------------- I'll follow these lines a little ways more, Until I can find what I'm looking for. With the pedal to the metal, I'm gaining my speed. Riding down low in my AMC..... |
Posted By: 69BBB3904spAMX
Date Posted: Dec/24/2010 at 10:16pm
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I've used OSPHO, still have a gallon of it. It chemically turns rust (iron oxide into iron phosphate). ------------- 37 Ford Tudor 60 hp V8 flathead, all original, never restored 69BBB3904spAMX 70 Camaro 1st car 74 Hornet Hatch 6 cyl floor/auto 2007,2008,2009 PT Cruisers Aluminum Deck Car Trailer |
Posted By: RSX 401
Date Posted: Dec/24/2010 at 11:21pm
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Actually, it depends on how you use the OSPHO. If you just spray or brush it on (then let it dry) it will convert the rust and turn it a dark color. However, if you take your time and "scrub" the rusted metal, it will leave you with a clean surface looking like fresh metal.
Here's a bracket before I cleaned it with OSPHO.
 This is the same bracket after I finished.
 I later used a piece of copper bar behind the holes and welded them up. ------------- I'll follow these lines a little ways more, Until I can find what I'm looking for. With the pedal to the metal, I'm gaining my speed. Riding down low in my AMC..... |
Posted By: RSX 401
Date Posted: Dec/24/2010 at 11:28pm
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It works really well on surface rust also.
Before.....
 After.....
 ------------- I'll follow these lines a little ways more, Until I can find what I'm looking for. With the pedal to the metal, I'm gaining my speed. Riding down low in my AMC..... |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/25/2010 at 11:07am
------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/25/2010 at 11:20am
I have never used OSPHO but after seeing the posted pics I'm definitely interested! ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/30/2010 at 7:22pm
While waiting for my turn at my buddy's welding shop I'm keeping busy with some other body repairs. Now completed are the lower rear window corners which had the typical AMX surface rust. Actually I stripped and primed the entire rear window panel and "inner" quarters while I was at it. The duct tape is to protect the glass while sanding.
  I also sprayed a coat of primer in the trunk, it will stay this way until after the lower quarters are replaced so the entire trunk can be sprayed the body color.
 ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: amcrules00
Date Posted: Dec/30/2010 at 9:08pm
| WOW, big balls leaving the glass in place. |
Posted By: 1970390amx
Date Posted: Dec/31/2010 at 1:22am
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With the amount of work you are doing to this car why are you chosing to leave the glass in it and risk rust in the window channel? ------------- 1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX 1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Dec/31/2010 at 7:36am
The glass is coming out before the car is painted. We are changing it to a tinted set that Will supplied. If there are any issues with the window channels they will be addressed then. For now the glass is doing a decent job of keeping all of the dust out of the interior. Well not all, but most of it!  ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: will333
Date Posted: Dec/31/2010 at 8:32am
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Well...not a full set of tinted glass. Here's a plug for that elusive driverside tinted glass...anyone have one for sale? Don't make me beg. ------------- 1968 AMX 390 Automatic Turbo Silver outside, red on the inside "The Orbiter" A Scott Campbell restoration |
Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Dec/31/2010 at 8:58am
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The interior of Will's car is exceptional and leaving the glass in will definitely protect it far more than tape and paper ever could.
The interior on this car is one of the nicest I have ever seen and the body was most definitely repairable when I visited with Will so doing whatever it takes to protect the interior is a definite requirement. ------------- Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Posted By: will333
Date Posted: Dec/31/2010 at 9:27am
Thanks Dan. I maybe should have done the exterior first, but things happen the way they do. Here's a picture of the interior in case anyones interested. The car came with a perfect 69 Ralley Pack so I worked around that by adding Legendary 69 door panels, a 70 gauge cluster restored using the Amark decals , 69 hooded gauge overlay, 69 center console using Amarks wooded overlay restoration service, 68 loop carpet from ACC, chrome pedal overlays and Legendary 68 seat covers. A little from all three years. I think it looks pretty good all together.
 ------------- 1968 AMX 390 Automatic Turbo Silver outside, red on the inside "The Orbiter" A Scott Campbell restoration |
Posted By: 71AMX4014SPD
Date Posted: Dec/31/2010 at 3:13pm
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Gorgeous! Looks ready for a color catalog.......... -------------  1968 Javelin 360 727 B/W/R 1970 AMX 390 4spd Bayshore Blue 1971 Jav/AMX 401 4spd B6 |
Posted By: ed68amx
Date Posted: Dec/31/2010 at 8:38pm
| What a sweet project! The color is great and the interior makes it awesome. Love the attention to detail your putting into this great car! Good luck and thanx 4 sharing your progress |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Jan/01/2011 at 9:04am
------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Jan/04/2011 at 2:11pm
This week I hope to strip all of the body parts which are not going to the media blaster. I started with the roof, and not unexpectedly I did find some filler on the driver's side. I say not unexpectedly because you could see a faint line underneath the paint. I would guess that sometime in the car's distant past some joker walked on or sat up there causing some minor denting.
 I have been worried about the condition of the hood since I saw a long crack extending across the top. In getting it ready for media blasting I can now see some serious damage to both the outer skin and bracing underneath. It doesn't look like the hood has ever been bent, but the top appears to have suffered the type of damage you might see from driving underneath the back of a large truck for example. And in order to "pop out" the dents, someone really screwed up the underside by prying against the bracing. Now many of the holes underneath are stretched out and distorted.
  Will and I have been discussing what to do here, because good replacement hoods are few and far between. There is the possibility of transfering the skin (if it's any good) to a good frame from a Javelin hood, but that is something I have not yet attempted. Has anyone here reskinned a steel hood with good results? ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Jan/04/2011 at 11:20pm
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If the top of the hood was dented like the roof, it looks like somebody walked up and over the car as you said...too bad some jerk had to go and do that to a car like an AMX! ------------- Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Jan/05/2011 at 7:34pm
Still working on stripping the old paint. I don't like using chemical stripper, it's messy and I always worry about it becoming trapped someplace, then reacting with the new paint later. But here is a place where I do use it, after a couple of repaints these circles can lose their definition if not stripped completely.
  And I'm finally sanding some of the places where the paint is rough and lifting like this:
I really didn't know what I would find here, but most of it appears to be caused by surface rust. It certainly doesn't cover the entire car but I am finding isolated spots here and there, plus a lot of the edges have a line of rust. Almost as if somebody primed the car, blocked it, then let it sit outside for a while before painting over the rust which had started to form. Now I'm really curious why the front fender extensions have the same problem! I may have to bead blast one of them tomorrow.
I also started repairing the tail light panel today. As mentioned previously there was some quickie collision repairs done here. As an example in this shot you can see rust where there was no paint at all, plus extra body filler in the fuel cap opening which would have taken 15 seconds to fix, but wasn't. I guess they figured it didn't show most of the time so the heck with it.
 ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Jan/06/2011 at 5:58pm
I wanted to show some typical surface rust like I am finding underneath the paint. It was actually hard to get these pics because while sanding the rust disappears about a second after you see it!
  The second pic shows the type of rust I am finding along the edges and body lines. And I did check one of the fender extensions because it has similar lifting of the paint. On this piece there is white, powdery corrosion under the paint, something I have never see on these before. But they will clean up just fine.
 ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: bigbad69
Date Posted: Jan/06/2011 at 6:20pm
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Will and I have been discussing what to do here, because good
replacement hoods are few and far between. There is the possibility of
transfering the skin (if it's any good) to a good frame from a Javelin
hood, but that is something I have not yet attempted. Has anyone here
reskinned a steel hood with good results? I guess you should have grabbed that pink hood that was for sale last month. BTW, is this an early 68 AMX? From what I understand, the hood frame was changed sometime during the model year. Or was that just the Javelin? ------------- 69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10 |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Jan/06/2011 at 6:28pm
I don't know exactly when the frame changed, I have always believed it was a clean '68 vs '69 break. The hood on Will's AMX is actually a '69 style hood, It's not the original because it has a different color underneath. ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: raysinvegas
Date Posted: Jan/06/2011 at 8:13pm
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There is a pink AMX hood on Ebay right now. Might be the same one? How many pink AMX hoods can there be? Also saw another hood on Craigslist out of Phoenix? ------------- Andy Ray 64 440H 64 440 Convertible 68 Javelin SST 343 69 Javelin SST 343 69 SC/Rambler 
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Posted By: ed68amx
Date Posted: Jan/06/2011 at 8:58pm
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Well, as a part time restorer of old John Deeres, most anything can be saved but youve got your hands full with the reskinned idea of the hood. Hours spent versus buying something used. THIS IS A TOUGH ONE! Good luck with this latest bump in the road. |
Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Jan/06/2011 at 9:35pm
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I believe the silver hood is spoken for. I am waiting for another forum member to get back to me to see if he wants me to go and pick it up for him and hold it till the Sedona meet in July ------------- Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Posted By: Chisam
Date Posted: Jan/07/2011 at 12:03am
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There was a hood frame change during the 68 model year . My 68, early June build has this change, more bends to make it stronger than the early hoods that were more flat in the front . My one brothers 68 has the early hood and did need repair in tha area. My other brother bought a 69 new and still has it and his hood is different than my 68, more bends and stronger yet. My 68 had not been taken apart when I got it so I know the hood is original to the car. ------------- 1968 AMX 390 4SP |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Jan/07/2011 at 6:30pm
I started a new thread in the Restoration section showing these differences, check it out!
Today I worked on several areas of the AMX, like stripping the cowl and rocker panels. While I was down there I cleaned out both cowl drains. Although the drain holes are silver dollar size they still collect a lot of dirt and leaves. Here's what came out of the passenger's side:
 And here's a shot of the finished tail light panel. I spent a lot of time on this because someone had basically left it roughed out and unfinished. Even though it is mostly hidden I want it to look right.
 ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Jan/10/2011 at 6:05pm
So today I decided to cut off the lower quarters. I already have the new repair panels which have plenty of metal to work with, but by keeping the repair under the body line it should be a lot easier to finish after the welding is done. Here I am opening up the driver's side:
 This is what came off, I'm not sure why someone put overlapping patches on the inside.
 After cleaning up around the edges here is what we have, the trunk drop off on this side is still good! Walmart bag contains the tail light harness.
 Encouraged by how well the left side went, even with some older collision damage, I decided to tackle the right side today as well. As I was making the initial cuts across and down I kept thinking that it was taking a lot longer than the other side. Turns out that whoever "repaired" the rust on this side overlapped the panels by at least six inches! I was actually cutting through a double layer of steel most of the time. Here's what came off:
 But that wasn't even the worst of it, look what else I found!
 So the right side drop off is junk, it's even packed with fiberglass on the back. Time to order up a replacement. Opening up both quarters took almost the whole day since I had to be so careful not to cut or drill into the good metal. This AMX will be SO much nicer with real lower quarters welded in to replace all of this crap!
------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: 71SC360
Date Posted: Jan/10/2011 at 6:28pm
Cool.... you can buy 68 AMX tail light harnesses at Walmart now....
Great work Scott!
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Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Jan/10/2011 at 6:39pm
Yikes! ------------- Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Posted By: amcrules00
Date Posted: Jan/10/2011 at 8:30pm
| Beside just plain bad, WTF was that supposed to be? |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Jan/10/2011 at 9:11pm
------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: RSX 401
Date Posted: Jan/10/2011 at 10:37pm
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The really sad part.........whoever did those repairs was probably proud of the work he accomplished.
Thank you for taking the time to do it right. ------------- I'll follow these lines a little ways more, Until I can find what I'm looking for. With the pedal to the metal, I'm gaining my speed. Riding down low in my AMC..... |
Posted By: will333
Date Posted: Jan/11/2011 at 4:17am
------------- 1968 AMX 390 Automatic Turbo Silver outside, red on the inside "The Orbiter" A Scott Campbell restoration |
Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Jan/11/2011 at 8:33am
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There are old school guys who used to do stuff to save money when these cars just weren't worth very much. With all the cars we have restored out here, we see some equally unexplainable things. The worst one is a car that Bob Green bought that obviously have spent some time in Mexico. It was a mostly solid car but some of the "patch work quilt" repairs were pretty ingenious despite looking like heck. ------------- Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Posted By: pushrod
Date Posted: Jan/11/2011 at 7:01pm
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The things people do. Great project. |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Jan/12/2011 at 4:35pm
This is what we have after removing the right side trunk drop off. Don't worry, I already have new leaf springs ready to go on! Also another look at the Frankenstein quarter repair, and this is after trimming off some of the extra metal! You can imagine how much this weighs.
  I also did some grinding today in preparation for welding the lower quarters. Unfortunately back over on the driver's side the drop off panel isn't quite as nice as it originally looked. Although it is intact I did find a couple of pin holes so it definitely isn't good enough to weld to. Both drop offs will now be changed, but for now I am leaving the left side in place for reference. Once the right side is positioned I will zip off the other one and replace it as well. ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: amxdreamer
Date Posted: Jan/12/2011 at 5:11pm
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Can you imagine if someone actually paid money for work like that! Great project, I look forward to posts on this thread. ------------- Tony Vancouver, BC 1970 AMX 1972 Badassador AMO#10333 |
Posted By: hassyfoto
Date Posted: Jan/13/2011 at 7:41am
Maybe somebody figured the extra weight in the back would help with traction. LOL
Doing a great job on the car. Keep posting pics. ------------- Murphy's Law: Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment |
Posted By: 69BBB3904spAMX
Date Posted: Jan/13/2011 at 1:21pm
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Years ago, while cutting up/parting out AMX's, Javelins, Cudas and Challengers, I would run across the occasional qtr panels that had been filled with cement, apparently for more traction...
------------- 37 Ford Tudor 60 hp V8 flathead, all original, never restored 69BBB3904spAMX 70 Camaro 1st car 74 Hornet Hatch 6 cyl floor/auto 2007,2008,2009 PT Cruisers Aluminum Deck Car Trailer |
Posted By: steeters
Date Posted: Jan/13/2011 at 3:40pm
Great looking project and I have enjoyed reading the documentation and learning about some of the products you like to use. I didn't have to fix old collision damage, but the area behind my brake lights did get 3 coats of color, 3 coats of clear, sanding and polish  Steve |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Jan/20/2011 at 5:18pm
I haven't posted in a while but not because of a lack of progress. This past week I have been chasing parts and spending time straightening out a few small problem areas of the body. For example somebody had massaged the lower part of the rear wheel lips apparently to gain some additional tire clearance.
  Today I also received the new trunk drop offs from APD. These cost about 3 times as much as the ones sold on eBay but there is no comparison! These look just like the original panels except for not having holes to attach the rear valance.
 Since one original drop off is still intact I carefully measured the position of the holes then drilled them in the new panel.
 I then transferred their position to the other side.
 Here is the complete set of lower quarters as received from APD, very good quality parts! I hope to have the welding done very soon.
 ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: amcrules00
Date Posted: Jan/20/2011 at 5:47pm
| Panels really do look nice. Was the whole fender lip folded over or just at the bottoms? |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Jan/20/2011 at 5:53pm
------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: 70 Donohue 390
Date Posted: Jan/20/2011 at 6:16pm
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Very nice work Scott! Rolling fenders was absolutely necessary when I put some Goodyear Racing tires on 8"wide wheels on all four corners of my 70 AMX for autocrossing. Those black sharpies sure do come in handy in our restorations huh. I remember my Dad using a scribe since pencil, chalk & crayons wouldn't do the job. ------------- 67 Rogue 290 Convert 70 BBO 390 5 Speed Javelin-under construction |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Jan/26/2011 at 8:52pm
Still attending to the body. Today I trimmed and fitted the trunk drop offs. Although these reproductions include enough metal to attach them to the trunk floor, I shortened the tops in order to weld them to the existing drop offs, making the welds invisible from inside the trunk.
 Back up front I finished the core support as well as the radiator baffles. Both the upper and lower core support had minimal damage, apparently from the impact which took out the hood. The baffles however are pristine! These are so often bent back and straightened after any type of front end collision so Will is fortunate that these were spared. They were coated with the same tar like stuff as the gussets so I had to spend some time with a heat gun and scraper before they could be sanded. This is another area of the body that is invisible to most people but one that I always check!
 ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Feb/03/2011 at 3:30pm
Today my buddy Flip brought over his MIG to do some welding. He has done all of my welding for the past 20 years, starting with my Pro Street Pacer back in '91. He did one quarter at a time, starting with the trunk drop off.
 After that he tacked on the outer quarter after I test fit the rear valance to be sure the position was right. Here the quarter is not yet aligned with the valance.
 Once everything was positioned and clamped, he did the spot welds along the edges and bottom using the 1/4" holes I had drilled earlier. Then he filled in between the tack welds on the seam, 1-2" at a time with me quenching the welds with a wet towel. Worked out great!
 The outer seams are butt welded, no overlap at all.
 I am still very impressed with the quality of the APD replacement panels. With some careful measuring and a little trimming they matched up perfectly and once welded together are rock solid. Here is a look at the back side. Underneath I will seal the new drop offs at the top with a bead of Por Patch.
 And since Will's AMX is an original radio delete he has decided to remove the radio and antenna which had been added. How many people would do that?!
 ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: amcrules00
Date Posted: Feb/03/2011 at 4:40pm
| I would too, no brainer there. Looks like a high quality job so far Scott. |
Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Feb/03/2011 at 5:58pm
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Nice to see that you did butt welding on the lower quarters. I am not a fan at all of lap welding panels on the outside and try to only have it done in places where it can't be seen like you did.
Lots of dealers added radios so although it may not be on a build sheet, it can still be accurate if you have the original bill of sale. Out of the 8 SC/Ramblers I have had, only one was still without a radio when it made its way into my garage. ------------- Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Feb/03/2011 at 6:40pm
The radio may have been dealer added, the 1" hole for the antenna looked factory original in its placement and execution. But like Will I also prefer the sound of a healthy 390. ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
Posted By: will333
Date Posted: Feb/03/2011 at 7:12pm
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I am lucky enough to have the build sheet for this car and it was, in fact, a radio delete. I'm sure the radio must have been added by the dealer. I know it would have still been "correct" with the dealer installed radio but that wasn't my main motivation because this car isn't going to be a totally stock car when it's done. It's really that I just don't like antennas. I think they are a distraction from the look of the car, and they make it PITA to put a car cover on. And besides, radio delete cars are cool. ------------- 1968 AMX 390 Automatic Turbo Silver outside, red on the inside "The Orbiter" A Scott Campbell restoration |
Posted By: bigbad69
Date Posted: Feb/03/2011 at 7:46pm
From the first time I drove a car, I have had the radio on. I don't know if I can drive without my tunes. ------------- 69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10 |
Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Feb/03/2011 at 9:16pm
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My definition of correct is whatever it had on it when it was sold to the first buyer off the dealer's lot. So if someone liked a B scheme SC/Rambler paint job but liked the A scheme graphics and the dealer added them for the buyer does that make it not correct? Likewise when the SS AMXs came in all white and one buyer wanted the paint in RWB and the other wanted it in BWR (both of which were Breedlove paint schemes) werew they not correct if not totally white?
LOTS of cars in the 60s were "upgraded" by the dealer before they were ever sold. Heck, the original Panteras were so bad that they almost never left the dealer lot without dozens or even over a hundred hours of dealer prep work and factory service bulletin upgrades make them even remotely usable to the buyer. If those heaps were returned back to the way they were when they came from the factory they'd all make better planters than automobiles. On the other hand, when all the dealer mods and upgrades were added they became a truly amazing car and are now gorgeous collerctibles.
I guess in the end the only thing that really matters is what the person that owns the car wants and likes. The rest is nothing more than another person's opinion. ------------- Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Posted By: Ohio AMX
Date Posted: Feb/03/2011 at 9:30pm
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My red Hornet AMX is also a radio delete car. I was thrilled to finally locate NOS fenders with no antenna hole. ------------- 1940 Hupmobile Skylark 1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |