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Oil pump drive gear

Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: The Garage
Forum Name: AMC 6 Cylinder Engine Repair and Modifications
Forum Description: AMC-made I-6 engine mechanical, ignition and fuel from basic repair to high-perf modifications
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=108961
Printed Date: Mar/28/2024 at 12:49pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Oil pump drive gear
Posted By: IowaTom
Subject: Oil pump drive gear
Date Posted: Jan/10/2021 at 4:12pm
My manual shows what looks like a woodruff key on the main shaft of my oil pump.
There's got to be a trick to getting this apart so I can slide my cam out.





Replies:
Posted By: IowaTom
Date Posted: Jan/10/2021 at 4:17pm
On my old flathead Stude engines, there was a C-clip under the main impeller.  If this one has a key, I should be able to lift the impeller out, sliding it off the key, right?  It won't budge and I don't want to force it.  I don't want to drive the pin out of the gear on the cam, but if all else fails...




Posted By: IowaTom
Date Posted: Jan/10/2021 at 4:34pm
<< buy a new oil pump. the old ones always "look fine" (OK sometimes they don't). the objectionable wear is in hard to measure rotor-to-wall clearance. >>

Great advice, Mr. J, I will do dat!  As soon as I can get the old one off.


Posted By: ramblinrev
Date Posted: Jan/10/2021 at 7:04pm
Is the pump housing just stuck to the block? Rap it with a rubber mallet, I would think the whole think should come off.

Love how the pictures show how AMC coated the inside of the engine block to resist corrosion, and make splashed oil slide down to the pan easier! I wonder if any other automaker did that?




-------------
74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981)


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Jan/10/2021 at 10:50pm
The "idler" gear falls out. The other one is attached to the shaft. Just pull the entire pump out. THe three long 5/16" bolts. It's just stuck, there's a gasket between pump casting and block. Threaten it with a section of 2 x 4 or a plastic hammer. Like a distributor, the casting inserts into the block, so twisting helps.

The oil pump drive gear is the same as the distributor drive gear and might be the same as the 232 (test that).

Drive the pin out, pull the gear off. TIght fit, 50 years of gunk, it will stick. Then tap the shaft out of the pump body. The gear then comes off the shaft, and you can then see the circlip that was preventing the gear from fallign off the top.

The cover gasket is a critical part! I remember far too much about it -- .009" thick. It determines gear end /cover clearance. 

Don't forget to pull out, clean, and check the pressure relief stuff. Check the spring height, make sure it hasn't collapsed. Mine did, but I don't know if that's common or not. Easy to check. My website has the dimensions of an NOS spring I bought from Blasers.



-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: IowaTom
Date Posted: Jan/12/2021 at 6:12pm
It's the next best thing to having you guys in the shop with me!  Thanks, got the gear, then cam out fine.
Tom, your full flow filtration system is so cool (no pun intended) and thanks for the correct length of the pressure relief spring.  My old one is still 2 and 5/8".  
Last thing is getting the plunger out then off to the shop for the hot tank and mag.
Almost every piston had broken rings.  Like my first car, (same engine) this one probably went down the road in a cloud of blue haze before they parked it.  :-)


Posted By: ramblinrev
Date Posted: Jan/12/2021 at 7:31pm
Tom,
What car is this going in?
I have a '65 full-flow adapter. Tom could probably tell us if you could retrofit that to an earlier block and pump?
I know you can't fit it in space-wise in a '58-63 American, but I believe the larger cars have the space.



-------------
74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981)


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Jan/12/2021 at 10:55pm
ramblinrev, right! The full flow pump fits only the 10, 80 chassis (classic/ambo) not the little car. I have one in my pile, I think Pacerman gave it to me. Serious chassis interference in the AMericans.

I think it will work in a 1958 engine, but I'd have to check. I have a NORS 1958 block (early eBay -- I bought a complete new-old-replacement-stock rebuilt shortblock for $400!!) and a 1965 "replacement engine", used/stripped, so I can compare if you'd like to know.



-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: ramblinrev
Date Posted: Jan/13/2021 at 7:39am
Tomj,
I would be curious to know.
Obviously, one would plug the external oil line hole in the head. Just wonder if anything else in the oil passages is different.


-------------
74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981)


Posted By: IowaTom
Date Posted: Jan/13/2021 at 5:56pm
I'll use it in my '59 Super, that now has the overdrive.  It'd be great to have the power to climb the hill onto my street with a fresh engine.

A full flow filter system would be fantastic if it'll fit - and from the looks of my engine compartment, it should.  Tom, let me know how much and your address!  

Thanks again, Guys!


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Jan/13/2021 at 11:25pm
Originally posted by ramblinrev ramblinrev wrote:

I would be curious to know.

OK I'll look.

Originally posted by ramblinrev ramblinrev wrote:

Obviously, one would plug the external oil line hole in the head. Just wonder if anything else in the oil passages is different.

No! Still need to oil the top end in the usual manner. The 65 (63 up? Frank knows) has the "timed oil" hack to the cam, with oil output above the lump in the block where the front cam bearing is. Older engines feed the top end from the main gallery.

Either way, the top end needs oil. I've got a 63 block (timed oil) but a 61 cam (no flat for timed oil) so I feed the head from the main gallery.


OOPS -- I already checked this. The 64-up blocks have a different oil pump mounting boss area that accommodates the new, full-flow oil pump. The 64-up pump system WILL NOT bolt onto older blocks. Read here:

https://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/195.6ohv/OILING/index.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/195.6ohv/OILING/index.html

Scroll down to "The 1964-up factory full-flow-filtration oil pump assembly"

The aluminum engine (used only in the 10 series (Classic) chassis) had a pump that incorporated full-flow filtration; in 1964 that pump was installed in iron 195.6 OHV engines in the new-for-1964 01 series (American). the filter on this pump will not clear the suspension or chassis of the pre-1964 01/American.

i got a rusted '64 pump from a friend, it was too far gone to use but it served as a model for cogitating on a solution. The fundamental limitation in the pre-1964 American chassis is clearance. i believe that if i had a decent Classic pump i could have modified it for my own ends, but i couldn't find one, and the non-filter pump is common enough so i based my hack on that.

Below are some pics of the 1965 full-flow filtration pump I got from Joe. Though the casting was too pitted to be used, I did make mods to it that would have solved the problem.

This casting is based upon the venerable old pump, but has a complicated cover that incorporates the overpressure bypass that dumps oil back to the pump inlet; therefore the filter will never get unregulated pressure. That's a required choice for an OEM environment, but not a much of a worry in mine.

Worse, this pump does not fit the earlier blocks; the block casting is wider at the pump mounting face, because there is a passageway in the pump outlet that requires the block face to seal it. The old blocks have air where the new block has cast iron.




-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: wittsend
Date Posted: Jan/14/2021 at 10:48am
Is it the actual housing that hits the chassis..., or the filter that hits? If it is the filter (due to its length - I believe it sits at an angle?) then I was curious if there is enough room to add a remote filter adapter due to its stubbiness (or a right angle adapter) and allow it to work on the early Americans.

-------------
'63 American Hardtop


Posted By: ramblinrev
Date Posted: Jan/14/2021 at 11:49am
It's both. There's no room for the adaptor because the oil pump is so close to that inner fender/suspension mount on the early Americans.
It's also why you couldn't swap an aluminum 196 into the early American (it has a full flow system)...not that many people would want to, but someone like Tomj might find it to be an interesting challenge!




-------------
74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981)


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Jan/14/2021 at 10:52pm
Originally posted by ramblinrev ramblinrev wrote:

It's both. There's no room for the adaptor because the oil pump is so close to that inner fender/suspension mount on the early Americans.

YOu got it exactly.

Originally posted by ramblinrev ramblinrev wrote:

It's also why you couldn't swap an aluminum 196 into the early American (it has a full flow system)...not that many people would want to, but someone like Tomj might find it to be an interesting challenge!

Funny you say that -- I am getting an aluminum engine soon! lol, just the block, as a planter, or coffee table base, or something. But I have wanted one in the past, and the same friend dumping some crap XXXXX gifting me a lovely object has a friend in the midwest who has multiple, *running, rebuilt by him* aluminum engines. Oh man I do want one! They're such a bad idea... 



-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: IowaTom
Date Posted: Jan/15/2021 at 11:24am
<<as a planter, or coffee table base>>

You're obviously single.  


Posted By: wittsend
Date Posted: Jan/15/2021 at 11:30am
In my 40+ years of my (nearly monthly) trolling the So. Cal. Self Serve yards, primarily the now defunct U-Pick Parts (Addlen Bros.) and Pick Your Part in Sun Valley, Ca. I only ever came across ONE AMC aluminum engine. And like most of the water cooled engines of that era I assumed it was there for a reason. So, to find a number of them in the mid-west seems a real find!

-------------
'63 American Hardtop


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Jan/15/2021 at 9:51pm
Originally posted by IowaTom IowaTom wrote:

<<as a planter, or coffee table base>>
You're obviously single.  

Lol, no, though my partner drives a Hornet, and even has a Hornet tattoo on his arm. I was half-joking (coffee table) but planter, maybe. We've got a large yard. It would be over in my half.  I'm using 63 Classic and 70 Hornet bumpers lining a walkway. And turns out leaf springs make good edging. 

No car parts in the house!



-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Jan/15/2021 at 9:57pm
A photo worth a thousand words.... But I still want those words. There's a lot going on here! I am more than a bit in awe...





-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: First_Gear
Date Posted: Jan/16/2021 at 12:26am
I once looked at a 58 rambler which had an aluminum block 196 engine. I had no idea they were uncommon when I looked at it. The car was misrepresented so I passed. 


Posted By: IowaTom
Date Posted: Jan/16/2021 at 4:35pm
Wait, that engine looks like it's inside!  Okay, maybe a garage.
Ever see the later version of War of the Worlds, where Tom Cruise's character has one in his living room?
I love it!  The best winter place for working on one.  My wife would not agree, tho.


Posted By: ramblinrev
Date Posted: Jan/16/2021 at 5:22pm
Originally posted by First_Gear First_Gear wrote:

I once looked at a 58 rambler which had an aluminum block 196 engine. I had no idea they were uncommon when I looked at it. The car was misrepresented so I passed. 


That is odd, and had to have been transplanted. The aluminum block first came out in '61 and used through '64 in Classics. I still can't understand why AMC invested so much in a new block for an old design, instead of a completely new engine!


-------------
74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981)


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Jan/16/2021 at 8:34pm
Originally posted by ramblinrev ramblinrev wrote:

I still can't understand why AMC invested so much in a new block for an old design, instead of a completely new engine!

This. 

OMFG an aluminum 232 would be great!! Even an early one.



-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Jan/18/2021 at 7:29am
The AL 196 was a good idea, just not a good time for it. In the early 60s aluminum actually cost more than cast iron. The savings was in the molds though. Aluminum engine blocks used a reusable steel mold, a sand mold had to be made for every cast iron block, so you saved all that time making all those molds.

The issues were:

1) the 196 design itself has head sealing issues to begin with, dropping an iron head on an aluminum block certainly didn't help! You still had to check/tighten head bolts every 8-10K miles. The first owner might have done it, the second and third? Not likely to even know or read the owners manual (if it was still with the car)... or care -- it's a cheap used car!

2) Anti-freeze at the time was corrosive to aluminum. You had to buy special anti-freeze that was aluminum compatible. Many frugal Rambler owners didn't. So again, first owner -- probably ok. Second and later??? Don't know/care...

Both of those combined caused overheating/sealing issues. When you have those the cast iron liners, which were unsupported at the top of the block (no deck) could shift, and you had internal corrosion from the wrong anti-freeze. All the troubles were maintenance issues, not design issues.

Now all anti-freeze is AL compatible and most engines are aluminum -- some are even die-cast like the Rambler motor. Early tech adopters always uncover the issues first!


-------------
Frank Swygert


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Jan/18/2021 at 11:26pm
How on earth did you get the sleeve ends square and flat? Even fly cut, not common in cheap shops, would tend to make the tall tubes ring and chatter. I guess you could fill the space between with water to dampen (literally and metaphorically! lol) the resonances.

If I had a lot of money I'd consider it, as foolish as it is. I've given up on flatheads, as finding good cores is too difficult and expensive, even down here where for whatever reason they are plentiful.

(I know someone who has an AMC Factory NOS replacement flathead engine still in its crate!! I can't afford it. Same guy has a 1965 Classic 770 wagon V8 with bucket seats, console and twin-stick...)



-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: First_Gear
Date Posted: Jan/18/2021 at 11:42pm
Originally posted by ramblinrev ramblinrev wrote:

Originally posted by First_Gear First_Gear wrote:

I once looked at a 58 rambler which had an aluminum block 196 engine. I had no idea they were uncommon when I looked at it. The car was misrepresented so I passed. 


That is odd, and had to have been transplanted. The aluminum block first came out in '61 and used through '64 in Classics. I still can't understand why AMC invested so much in a new block for an old design, instead of a completely new engine!

It was definitely aluminum and definitely a 58. It maybe could have been a 59. It probably was a replacement engine after all the car is over 60 years old! The car had one of those terrible bondo over rust mess paint jobs. New carpet over holes in the floor etc.. All the signs of a quick flip. Seemed to run ok though!


Posted By: 1958 rambler super
Date Posted: May/28/2021 at 6:56pm
Hi everyone! If you have the time, can someone please instruct me on how the "regular" oiling system works and is constructed on 195.6 ohv six cylinder engines? This post is also concerning the external piping traveling up from the main oil gallery raised casting in the block, mostly it's looked like originating from the hole closest to the front of the engine next to the back of the timing cover. the piping travels up and around the rectangular inspection covers and then up to the head. On tomjs 195.6 his system is modified, and mine is not so I don't think I can use clues from those pictures, since the oil pump is modified and mine is not, and the oil pipe is not there either since his block has the oil delivery passage designed into the block.
The rambler I bot had a oil delivery system I was confused about, the pieces of it where all disassembled so I don't know how it all was connected together, and did not see the same system of piping from other 195.6 engines.....I showed tomj a picture of the oil filter canister and some of the piping I have and he said he didn't recognize it, and didn't know if it was even amc system, he said the regular system is much simpler and I'd like to use it for my rebuild 195.6, I think I might have to use the old one for now for the break in asap, be ause the engines rusting, so use the weird one now but change it later... Any time you could spare to help out a guy who wonders... Does the oil get pumped from the pump and from that part of the system does it come out and go Into the raised casting that travels along the lower part of the block, sending oil down each passage way, on the transmission end I think there is a oil pressure sensor equipment piece, threaded into that hole, in the middle above the pump is another hole, larger then the two at each end, which tomj I think said was usually plugged, at the other end is, where in pictures, I see the piping travels up and around the rectangular inspection covers and up to the valve cover area in the head, and the oil then flows through oil holes in the iron casting down through the various parts of the engine to the bottom, and to the oil pan, to start all over again. But where does the oil filter go? I don't see it in some pictures, and the piping just goes into the head... but in other pictures it is sitting on a small metal plate near where the thermostat is, does this metal pipe go into it first, and then another pipe go from the filter into the valve cover area into the head? How come tomj, you have your oil filter attatched onto the timing cover backside edge and not uptop like those other pictures? Is it because the oil flow is built into the casting? And that oil filter doesn't need to be up high for some reason? Is the oil filter in those other systems mounted at a high spot like that because gravity needs to pull the oil out of the filter more so then if it was mounted on the back of the timing cover?


Posted By: Robm
Date Posted: Jul/11/2021 at 8:54pm
Can you install the oil drive incorrectly and mess up the timing? We did a complete rebuild on a flat head and the timing seems off a bit, the cam and crank gears are lined up but the rotor seems a shade off the number 1 location on the cap. Engine is getting over heated and does not seem to rev with any real response when it even starts. We did have it idling decent but tonight we lost spark. (Auto lite dist ) everything is new in the ignition system. Tia


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Jul/11/2021 at 9:54pm
Did you index the distributor so that the rotor points to to #1 plug wire at it's TDC compression stroke? You can do that, or check it, at any time. It's not hard, you just have to be methodical.



-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Jul/12/2021 at 5:51am
Robm, remember, that on the 196 flathead you can't index the distributor. The oil pump drives the distributor. The drive gear is on the oil pump shaft and has a recess with an offset blade in it. The distributor shaft has a matching slot and fits in the gear. That means the dizzy only goes in one way and can't be indexed. The only adjustment is the little on the dizzy body. It was done this way so you can take the cap off then pull the entire distributor to change and adjust points, then slip it back in. The engine should crank, then just needs fine tuning. Otherwise the angled position of the dizzy in the small body 50-55 Nash Rambler/58-63 Rambler American makes it near impossible to access the points.

You don't need to time the oil pump though. Insert the distributor without the cap on with engine at TDC on compression stroke then observe where the rotor is pointing. Put the cap on then put #1 wire on where the rotor points, continue around the cap in firing order. If you don't have enough fine adjustment in the dizzy body try resetting the timing again. You may have to move #1 wire forward or back, depending on where you're running out of adjustment.

One more thing -- check the wires on the distributor since you lost spark. Also, new doesn't always mean good. Recently manufactured points and (especially) condensors for old cars have been know to not last long at all. Hard to find a GOOD set, most made in small batches by small overseas companies and quality has been questionable. You might try another condensor if the wires and contacts inside the distributor (and from dizzy to coil) are good.


-------------
Frank Swygert


Posted By: Robm
Date Posted: Jul/12/2021 at 6:59am
Thank you!!!


Posted By: Robm
Date Posted: Jul/12/2021 at 7:27am
Yes , we did do this. Just feel like it’s off a bit as it seems to get over heated. Brand new record rad new hoses, clear heater core new thermostat and we do have flow through the rad. It’s my wife’s first build and she’s getting 🙁. Yes I am quite experienced and we do have STM’s for the car. 1960 American 195.6 flat head. Thanks for the reply!!


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Jul/12/2021 at 11:31pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

Robm, remember, that on the 196 flathead you can't index the distributor

D'OH! I was assuming overhead valves. Sorry about that!



-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: Robm
Date Posted: Jul/13/2021 at 7:17am
We got it running last night , super fast start up and smooth running. However even after removing the thermostat and heater core still getting over heated. Going to try adjusting the adjustment on the distributor tonight and get the timing closer. Thanks for all the suggestions!!! It’s coming along.


Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Jul/13/2021 at 8:48pm
Is it still the original radiator? It could be partially clogged even though you are getting flow. Removing the thermostat shouldn't do anything unless it's stuck shut/not opening. Try running with the heater core connected and the heat in the full hot position. That will give it a little more cooling. If that works could indicate a partially clogged radiator. A newly rebuilt engine will run hotter than normal for a while too.

One more thing -- if it's not boiling over it's not overheating. Use a new 16# radiator cap and a 195 degree thermostat. It won't boil over until around 250 degrees, but should run in the 190-210 range. If it runs up to 220-230 until it breaks in (assuming a freshly rebuilt engine) that's fine. That shouldn't last for more than the first 200-500 miles though.


-------------
Frank Swygert


Posted By: Robm
Date Posted: Jul/13/2021 at 9:54pm
The rad is recored, brand new 13# cap and 180 stat, she’s boiled over 2 times. We have also installed 2 9 “ electric fans. Engine block and head were boiled and check for cracks by a machine shop , new rings, valves, springs and obviously full gasket kit. I still have to adjust the adjuster on the distributor to get the timing back currently at about 14*. Another thing the exhaust at the tailpipe is hotter than what I feel is proper.


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Jul/13/2021 at 11:35pm
Don't remove the thermostat. That deregulates the system and makes everything worse or at least complicated. 180's OK but 190 - 195 is correct, its in the service manual. WITH A WORKING COOLING SYSTEM a 195 thermostat will allow the engine to cool BETTER and FASTER.

The way out of this puzzle is diagnosis and measurement, with instruments. How are you setting timing? Get it to spec, 5 BTDC or whatever the TSM says. LATE timing makes engines run hot... 

You said it's a recent rebuild. Given that nothing is making sense, don't assume, check and measure. THe longer you run it in a bad state the more harm you can do.

Make sure there is no oil film in the coolant. Make sure there is no water in the oil.

I don't know the flatheads well -- I think the harmonic balancer has discrete rubber insulators? And not cast-in rubber? The OHV balancers can slip and indicate crazy-wrong timing. I think the flatheads cant' do that but I dont know. IF they can, check that.

TIMING: pull #1 spark plug, and pull the coil wire out so that the car cannot run. Stick your finger into spark plug #1's hole, tightly. Bump the engine over until if farts your finger out. That's TDC power stroke #1. The timing mark ought to be very close to 0. THe rotor in the distributor shoudl be pointing at #1 plug wire. That's what SHOULD be indicated. Sometimes it helps to double-check assumptions...

There are really basic mechanical, universal, things you can do to check that things are set up right. They're not hard to do, and they really are worth figuring out. If you really overheat that engine, and it's not all htat hard, you can ruin the block and all your work. 

Collapsed hoses, 'spun' impeller on the water pump, othwerwise bad pump (is it in the block? Or behind the generator? I forget the year, can't see while posting).




-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: wittsend
Date Posted: Jul/14/2021 at 11:44am
Yes, check for a collapsing lower hose. This typically will not happen at idle and everything will look correct. But revving up the engine will show if the hose is collapsing.

 Small Block Fords are notorious for that happening. A friend with a V-8 Pinto and the Sunbeam Tiger community often had that problem. Properly sized large sprinkler springs can help prevent the collapsing.   Just make sure it doesn't get sucked into the water pump!


-------------
'63 American Hardtop


Posted By: Robm
Date Posted: Jul/14/2021 at 9:16pm
Hey fellas, got it cured. We adjusted the adjuster ont the distributor and achieved proper timing darn things a whole new car. Runs super and not getting hot. Thank you all for the advice and input. You’re a great lot of folks👍🍻


Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Jul/15/2021 at 5:51am
Glad it was so easy!!


-------------
Frank Swygert



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