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Power Brake Booster Bad?

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Rebel Machine View Drop Down
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    Posted: Feb/07/2026 at 3:13pm
The brakes in my '69 AMX aren't working properly. The pedal travels a bit then it's really hard to push. I've suspected the power brake booster is shot but I can put a vacuum pump on it and it holds. If I depress the brake pedal when the pump is holding vacuum the vacuum goes away. The vacuum is still gone after releasing the pedal. Is this correct behavior for the brake booster? Is is supposed to bleed off vacuum after being depressed?

Also the fluid in the rear reservoir of the master cylinder looks rusty. This is the second master cylinder I've had in this car, the previous one did the same thing.

What's going on here?

Thanks,
-Steve-



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/07/2026 at 3:33pm
Steve, you should read the operational description in the TSM.  Without the pedal depressed, vacuum is equalized on both sides of the diaphragm.  When you depress the pedal the rear of the booster is vented to atmosphere which moves the diaphragm forward.  When you release the pedal, vacuum is admitted to the rear from the front and the vacuum is equalized once more.

As to pedal effort, two of my personal experiences seem similar to yours.  One was with an internal failure of the vacuum valving in the booster and the second was a dragging master cylinder.  I'd remove the master cylinder and see how the booster behaves.

As to the fluid color, I'd take a syringe (turkey baster) and empty the reservoir.  That way you should be able to tell if it is rust or some other contaminant.  But bottom line is that it's either a reaction to something that was in the MC, or it came in through the discharge lines (unlikely), or it came in through a leaking cap.


Edited by 6PakBee - Feb/07/2026 at 3:37pm
Roger Gazur
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1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/07/2026 at 3:54pm
I believe the vacuum booster is bad. This is a good explanation of how the booster works.

When I press the pedal in after inducing vacuum the vacuum goes away so I think the valve in the diaphram that seals off the front chamber from the rear is bad.

As for the fluid color I replaced everything in the car when I built it back in 2011. Brake lines are all stainless.




Edited by Rebel Machine - Feb/07/2026 at 3:57pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/08/2026 at 7:59am
Was wondering, this power brake booster is for a '68-'76 Corvette (which also has 4-piston calipers) but looks remarkably similar to the one for my AMX.


The only difference I see is the connection rod to the pedal linkage. The AMC has an eye on the end.

Could they possibly be the same other than that?

-Steve-




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 71SC360 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/08/2026 at 10:04am
The Corvette booster is basically the same booster but, in order to change that valve (the connector) you have to take the whole booster apart. AMC used to sell the rebuild kits for the valve. There are new rebuild kits available for your booster if you want to go that route. I've rebuilt a few of the 9 inch boosters for Gremlin/Hornets (they are not that hard to rebuild) but, I have not had any of the AMX Javelin boosters apart.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Have2SC's Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/08/2026 at 10:07am
Steve, When my booster went bad it did the same thing. It felt like you had to push the pedal very very firmly to get the car to stop.  Rebuiled solved the problem.  I might suggest you send your original booster and have it rebuilt. Lee 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1948kaiser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/08/2026 at 10:19am
when the booster went bad on the gremlin when the booster was only 4 years old. it came off and went into the nearest dump. drove over 200k without one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 71SC360 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/08/2026 at 4:47pm
Originally posted by 1948kaiser 1948kaiser wrote:

when the booster went bad on the gremlin when the booster was only 4 years old. it came off and went into the nearest dump. drove over 200k without one


Early gremlin/ Hornet boosters are getting tough to find. I am always interested in cores, especially disc brake boosters...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/08/2026 at 4:55pm
Originally posted by 71SC360 71SC360 wrote:

The Corvette booster is basically the same booster but, in order to change that valve (the connector) you have to take the whole booster apart. AMC used to sell the rebuild kits for the valve. There are new rebuild kits available for your booster if you want to go that route. I've rebuilt a few of the 9 inch boosters for Gremlin/Hornets (they are not that hard to rebuild) but, I have not had any of the AMX Javelin boosters apart.


I watched a video on rebuilding a booster, looks rather complicated. Granted it was for a Mopar it was a Bendix booster.

AM I right in thinking the AMX booster is a dual diaphragm?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/08/2026 at 5:04pm
Since the engine in your AMX is supercharged, what do you do to prevent pressure from running into the power brake booster?
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