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possible gauge issue? |
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Have2SC's
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/30/2011 Location: Norwalk, OH Status: Offline Points: 1253 |
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Posted: Sep/17/2021 at 3:20pm |
1970 Javelin with factory rally pack option and gauges. Several weeks ago i started the car and noticed the car not running smoothly and the oil pressure needle on the gauge going bonkers then the car just quit like someone shut off the key. No lights, no nothing. Doin a little investigation we found a good battery. We found power to the top small post on the rally pack junction block but none at the large post at the bottom of the block and no power at the alternator either. At the suggestion of a friend we attached a jumper wire from the small post to the large post on the junction block and we had power back. Figured at that point we had a issue with the junction block and got a replacement. Replaced the junction block and it lasted about 30 seconds before doing the same thing!! On a side note after the second junction block we notice the oil pressure/amp gauge lens completely cracked from one end to another. Coincidence? We feel we may have a issue with the oil pressure, amp gauge. Currently running car with amp gauge unhooked and having no issues of any kind. Is there a way to check this gauge? Anyone else have this problem. Lee
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1971 SC360 Hornet 4 speed 1970 Javelin 390 4 speed "Base Model" 1967 Rambler 220 X code 343 4 speed
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6762 |
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The problem with and Ammeter is that ALL the AMP"s from the alternator run through it. If the old wiring is not up to the task, you can have major problems of overloaded wiring.
Suspect that the fusible link - wire used as a fuse has failed. The gauge may be OK but definitely overheated. It can be checked with a known 12 VDC power source and load. Use the TSM to find the fusible link location, close to the alternator. Many times this will happen when alternator is upgraded for things like heavy AMP sound systems or headlights, but the wiring not upgraded as well. The TSM is required to determine were the fault likely occurred and if wiring/alternator have been altered, this needs to be documented on a wiring diagram and loads traced, fused, connected orderly. On my car, the halogen headlights are on relays and separate fuses - just an example. Not even going into the breaker in the headlight switch - you need the TSM, which by your vehicles posted, you already have.
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Have2SC's
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/30/2011 Location: Norwalk, OH Status: Offline Points: 1253 |
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1971 SC360 Hornet 4 speed 1970 Javelin 390 4 speed "Base Model" 1967 Rambler 220 X code 343 4 speed
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6762 |
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A loose terminal on the back of an Ammeter will create a lot of heat. If everything else is fine, it's likely the terminal connections on the back of the gauge.
Take the Ammeter out and test it. Look for any arcing on the terminals or heat damage on the connecting wires.
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Have2SC's
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/30/2011 Location: Norwalk, OH Status: Offline Points: 1253 |
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1971 SC360 Hornet 4 speed 1970 Javelin 390 4 speed "Base Model" 1967 Rambler 220 X code 343 4 speed
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