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Oil pump drive gear

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IowaTom View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IowaTom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Oil pump drive gear
    Posted: Jan/10/2021 at 4:12pm
My manual shows what looks like a woodruff key on the main shaft of my oil pump.
There's got to be a trick to getting this apart so I can slide my cam out.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IowaTom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/10/2021 at 4:17pm
On my old flathead Stude engines, there was a C-clip under the main impeller.  If this one has a key, I should be able to lift the impeller out, sliding it off the key, right?  It won't budge and I don't want to force it.  I don't want to drive the pin out of the gear on the cam, but if all else fails...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IowaTom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/10/2021 at 4:34pm
<< buy a new oil pump. the old ones always "look fine" (OK sometimes they don't). the objectionable wear is in hard to measure rotor-to-wall clearance. >>

Great advice, Mr. J, I will do dat!  As soon as I can get the old one off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/10/2021 at 7:04pm
Is the pump housing just stuck to the block? Rap it with a rubber mallet, I would think the whole think should come off.

Love how the pictures show how AMC coated the inside of the engine block to resist corrosion, and make splashed oil slide down to the pan easier! I wonder if any other automaker did that?


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62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/10/2021 at 10:50pm
The "idler" gear falls out. The other one is attached to the shaft. Just pull the entire pump out. THe three long 5/16" bolts. It's just stuck, there's a gasket between pump casting and block. Threaten it with a section of 2 x 4 or a plastic hammer. Like a distributor, the casting inserts into the block, so twisting helps.

The oil pump drive gear is the same as the distributor drive gear and might be the same as the 232 (test that).

Drive the pin out, pull the gear off. TIght fit, 50 years of gunk, it will stick. Then tap the shaft out of the pump body. The gear then comes off the shaft, and you can then see the circlip that was preventing the gear from fallign off the top.

The cover gasket is a critical part! I remember far too much about it -- .009" thick. It determines gear end /cover clearance. 

Don't forget to pull out, clean, and check the pressure relief stuff. Check the spring height, make sure it hasn't collapsed. Mine did, but I don't know if that's common or not. Easy to check. My website has the dimensions of an NOS spring I bought from Blasers.

1961 roadster american, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 american, 199ci, T14
AMC pages: http://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/

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IowaTom View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IowaTom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2021 at 6:12pm
It's the next best thing to having you guys in the shop with me!  Thanks, got the gear, then cam out fine.
Tom, your full flow filtration system is so cool (no pun intended) and thanks for the correct length of the pressure relief spring.  My old one is still 2 and 5/8".  
Last thing is getting the plunger out then off to the shop for the hot tank and mag.
Almost every piston had broken rings.  Like my first car, (same engine) this one probably went down the road in a cloud of blue haze before they parked it.  :-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2021 at 7:31pm
Tom,
What car is this going in?
I have a '65 full-flow adapter. Tom could probably tell us if you could retrofit that to an earlier block and pump?
I know you can't fit it in space-wise in a '58-63 American, but I believe the larger cars have the space.

74 Hornet Hatchback X twins
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2021 at 10:55pm
ramblinrev, right! The full flow pump fits only the 10, 80 chassis (classic/ambo) not the little car. I have one in my pile, I think Pacerman gave it to me. Serious chassis interference in the AMericans.

I think it will work in a 1958 engine, but I'd have to check. I have a NORS 1958 block (early eBay -- I bought a complete new-old-replacement-stock rebuilt shortblock for $400!!) and a 1965 "replacement engine", used/stripped, so I can compare if you'd like to know.

1961 roadster american, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 american, 199ci, T14
AMC pages: http://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2021 at 7:39am
Tomj,
I would be curious to know.
Obviously, one would plug the external oil line hole in the head. Just wonder if anything else in the oil passages is different.
74 Hornet Hatchback X twins
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IowaTom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2021 at 5:56pm
I'll use it in my '59 Super, that now has the overdrive.  It'd be great to have the power to climb the hill onto my street with a fresh engine.

A full flow filter system would be fantastic if it'll fit - and from the looks of my engine compartment, it should.  Tom, let me know how much and your address!  

Thanks again, Guys!
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