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No contact on fuse panel

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billd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/15/2021 at 10:54pm
I do it with blower motors, wiper motors, the park switches, etc. when I pull things apart to plate or powder coat. I do brass or steel rivets, whichever is correct for the application. 

This was a NOS park switch that had a lot of finish blemishes, started to rust in the box. I took it apart, removed rivets, plated it and put it back together with new rivets.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/16/2021 at 8:33am
Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:

if you can de/re-rivet, that's the best fix of all.
I would disagree with that. A plain old rivet is a poor electrical connection unless you can achieve a gas tight connection between the base materials and the rivet. Solder is a much superior electrical connection. Rivets do, however, provide a better mechanical connection. A combination of the two would be the ideal solution, but if you're going for a 100% factory look, solder is out.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/16/2021 at 11:46am
Originally posted by bigbad69 bigbad69 wrote:

Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:

if you can de/re-rivet, that's the best fix of all.
I would disagree with that. A plain old rivet is a poor electrical connection unless you can achieve a gas tight connection between the base materials and the rivet. Solder is a much superior electrical connection. Rivets do, however, provide a better mechanical connection. A combination of the two would be the ideal solution, but if you're going for a 100% factory look, solder is out.



Yes, I overall agree,  but.............. your electric wipers are grounded this way  ;-)        ->

Unlike others, when I restore these I remove the ground strap, clean and plate the mounting plate, clean the ground, and use a new rivet with the rivet setting tools in my arbor press and check that the strap is tight. I've had others (restored motors) sent to me for repairs where the ground strap was left on and the plate simple blasted, cleaned and plated, not removing that strap. Very bad. 



It depends on whether a person is so OCD that solder would drive them nuts, or they realize that only THEY would even know it's there - but they'd still have a factory correct part other than the solder. 
These are generally pretty low current, and have lasted in many cases well over 50 years without notable issues. 
But any person dealing with this part should consider what you said and decide from there. 

I know well you are talking from an ideal standpoint with zero loss so this isn't an "argument" about what's truly ideal (electrically)


Edited by billd - Jun/16/2021 at 11:49am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/16/2021 at 11:51am
To me, the blasted fuse holder clamps are more an issue than a good rivet. Not all rivets are created, or I should say stamped equal.

If one does not care about a rivet, a screw and nut will work, more clamping force and surface area.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/16/2021 at 1:07pm
Be careful getting into force vs. area, etc. - the same force applied over a smaller area is better than that force applied over a larger area. It comes down to - do you want an elephant to step on your toe, or a lady in 1/2" heels stepping on your toe. 
You'd have to greatly increase the force of the fastener to get the effect when spread over a larger area - which of course a machine screw and nut could do if you really tightened it. 

Anyway, it's ironic in a way that the one and ONLY fuse panel I've ever had issues with, of all of the cars I've owned, the old trucks, you name it, the only one that gave me fuse panel blues was a more modern version AMC used in the 80s with the blade fuses - those color coded plastic fuses.
And guess where the issue was - yeah, some where the fuses plugged into the panel, but that part is fairly easy to fix..... it was at the back where the wires connected. It had gotten wet from a windshield leak years before I got it and the wire connections at the back were going bad. 
The fuse panel from a totally rotted out hulk of SX4 that the steering gear LITERALLY FELL OFF OF the frame, you couldn't sit in the seats or you'd go clear through the floor and I remove seat belts by simply pulling hard.......... the fuse panel was mint. No issues at all, not a bit. 
So I took the dash harness from that car - different year of course, different switch types and so on, merged it with the good from my harness, added the additional accessory connections mine had and needed that the 81 did not and made a good fuse panel match mine in options and had a really good wiring harness. 

Swapping out fuse panels made all electrical gremlins go away. No more flickering lights, no more wipers shutting down in a storm, everything finally worked. 





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/16/2021 at 1:33pm
Ah, now water damage thats another issue all together. Reminds me of all the cars from Katrina being sold, within a year... Bam! Electrical issues.

I think I worded my explanation wrongly about bigger surface area. I meant some fasteners may break down around the hole if trying to tighten with small shoulders on the head. Having a wider head, if area permits, allows the foot print to disperse the load more evenly where it is less prone to fracture or break away.

Not meaning to toque down til you see a flex or indentation.



Edited by 304-dude - Jun/16/2021 at 1:36pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/16/2021 at 2:54pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

To me, the blasted fuse holder clamps are more an issue than a good rivet. Not all rivets are created, or I should say stamped equal.
Both are an issue in 2021. The fuse panel on my 69 Javelin was working perfectly when the car got parked in 1982, but that was almost 40 years ago. The fuse panel in my current Javelin is also in very good condition, but the car has not been on the road since 1980 and has been in dry storage for most of the intervening years.

Not all fuse panels have been so pampered as the pictures by OP and billd show. Those seem to have become the rule rather than the exception. The panels AMC designed met the primary design requirements: inexpensive and were operated properly past the warranty period. No manufacturer designs for a 50 + year service life.

I was musing earlier in this thread about a re-pop fuse panel. As there is a good chance I will be unemployed soon (aaaand loving it!), I might have some extra time on my hands to look at this and see how feasible it would be to do. It's not outside my field of expertise by any means.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/16/2021 at 11:02pm
Originally posted by bigbad69 bigbad69 wrote:

Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

To me, the blasted fuse holder clamps are more an issue than a good rivet. Not all rivets are created, or I should say stamped equal.
Both are an issue in 2021. The fuse panel on my 69 Javelin was working perfectly when the car got parked in 1982, but that was almost 40 years ago. The fuse panel in my current Javelin is also in very good condition, but the car has not been on the road since 1980 and has been in dry storage for most of the intervening years.

Not all fuse panels have been so pampered as the pictures by OP and billd show. Those seem to have become the rule rather than the exception. The panels AMC designed met the primary design requirements: inexpensive and were operated properly past the warranty period. No manufacturer designs for a 50 + year service life.

I was musing earlier in this thread about a re-pop fuse panel. As there is a good chance I will be unemployed soon (aaaand loving it!), I might have some extra time on my hands to look at this and see how feasible it would be to do. It's not outside my field of expertise by any means.


I have some originals unless you have some for patterns. I was going to restore them........... 
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