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No contact on fuse panel

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mbwicz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbwicz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: No contact on fuse panel
    Posted: Jun/10/2021 at 7:30pm
  I'm going thru parts for my 70 AMX, and figured I should check my fuse panel.  Using the diagram in the TSM, I found a circuit with (at best) high resistance between the fuse contact and spade terminal.  If I checked things 10 times, one time I would get 250-300 ohms, the other 9 I would get open.
  The fuse holder is tight to the circuit board and there doesn't appear to be a break or any damage on the spade terminal side.
  Am I correct in assuming that I should just look for another fuse panel?  Its the end terminal and corner fuse holder (I tried to highlight the connection).  All other circuits tested OK for this panel.

Thanks for any advice,
Mike

1970 AMX. Holy Crap its easy to spend money on this car!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madams Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/10/2021 at 7:43pm
The fuse holders look pretty corroded (dirty really).  Clean it up really good and severely scratch the fuse holder with your meter lead to ensure your are touching bare copper.  

One sold recently on ebay for $30.  There is one for sale on ebay (not mine, no idea of the condition).

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/10/2021 at 8:16pm
Or just put in something a little more modern if this is not a restoration. These come in various number of fuses and there is little chance of accidental contact with any other fuse:
There are many suppliers of these and they can be mounted in the original position with no need to alter the wiring harness.
Add a couple of standard relays near by and you have full battery power to your headlights.
Just another option.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/11/2021 at 12:00am
It's an inherently crappy part. Badly made when new. They are nothing but trouble.

I had my best luck by soaking it in phosphoric acid ("rust remover/concrete prep") for half an hours, scrubbing it, washing in soapy water and drying it in the sun, then gently/carefully striking the rivets a wee bit tighter. If it's badly cooked, the phosphor-bronze spring clips get pitted and lose their spring, and then they get hot in normal operation.

heat from current flow causes a positive feedback loop, in that heat will increase corrosion which increases resistance which increases heat which... etc

I once wired a car from scratch, with rolls of wire, which was well within my skill set. What a huge PITA and it cost more than simply buying an aftermarket wiring harness, and didn't come out as good.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 American, 199ci, T14
AMC pages: http://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/11/2021 at 2:22pm
My first thought would be to tighten the rivets as tomj suggested. Replacing a 50 year old fuse block with another 50 year old fuse block may not yield the results you hoped for.

Wasn't someone making re-pops of these? Making a form-fit-function replacement wouldn't be all that difficult. Making it compatible with blade fuses would be a plus.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/11/2021 at 3:33pm
There's and awful lot of oxidation on that panel.I suggest following tomj's advice and to clean it chemically, rinse and dry it out and make sure at the terminals are tight. A loose rivet could be replaced with a short brass screw and nut.
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote mbwicz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/11/2021 at 5:01pm
I did a real good cleaning on it, as suggested. I didn’t find any loose rivets, but did re-strike the faulty circuit rivet again. It is consistently working now. Thanks for the tips. 

Mike

1970 AMX. Holy Crap its easy to spend money on this car!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/12/2021 at 8:26am
Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

Or just put in something a little more modern if this is not a restoration. These come in various number of fuses and there is little chance of accidental contact with any other fuse:
There are many suppliers of these and they can be mounted in the original position with no need to alter the wiring harness.
Add a couple of standard relays near by and you have full battery power to your headlights.
Just another option.


I absolutely agree.  I am a dyed in the wool purist.  BUT, if the OEM part was a POS, then I have no qualms about replacing it with something better.  I would find no comfort in telling myself I have a concours correct car while I'm waiting for the wrecker to tow me home.
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

"Shotgunning works great for pheasants, not so great for electrical problems"

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/15/2021 at 10:11am
Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:


I had my best luck by soaking it in phosphoric acid ("rust remover/concrete prep") for half an hours, scrubbing it, washing in soapy water and drying it in the sun, then gently/carefully striking the rivets a wee bit tighter. If it's badly cooked, the phosphor-bronze spring clips get pitted and lose their spring, and then they get hot in normal operation.

heat from current flow causes a positive feedback loop, in that heat will increase corrosion which increases resistance which increases heat which... etc



I take out the rivets, clean all of the metal parts, plate the connectors, etc. and re-rivet them with my rivet setting tools and new rivets so in a sense, they are restored. Since things are re-plated, they SHOULD in theory last as long as they did originally (ok, I know that may not mean 60 years LOL)

Exactly right on the resistance/heat/oxidation=more resistance=more heat thing. Nailed it. 

I've been trying to grab old fuse panels when I can find them to use for parts or even restore if good enough. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/15/2021 at 10:24pm
Oooh, if you can de/re-rivet, that's the best fix of all. I'm sure with the care you put in it will be far better assembled than the rapid-fire assembly line.


1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 American, 199ci, T14
AMC pages: http://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/

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