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No brake fluid to the rear brakes. |
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BU1
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/11/2016 Location: MN Status: Offline Points: 2011 |
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Got what??? The TSM? Or the brakes bled??
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AMO #2726
#1 1968 AMX Rally Green 343 Z code 4spd since 1975 #02642 #2 1968 AMX Rally Green 290 N code 4spd since 2019 #02959 |
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timj5130@gmail.com
AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/31/2019 Location: Madison Wi Status: Offline Points: 132 |
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Well, I did what the TSM said, and still nothing to the back. Ill have to mess with it this week. Tim
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Tim Johnson
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mbwicz
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Feb/20/2019 Location: Buffalo, NY Status: Offline Points: 1989 |
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If your car has factory disc brakes, there should be a valve mounted to the 'frame rail' ahead of the right rear wheel. Have someone hold pressure on the brake pedal and loosen the brake line fitting that feeds this block. If you get fluid out of this fitting, then you may want to disassemble this valve and see if its stuck or plugged.
These guys sell repair kits (seals): If there is no fluid coming from the line, then there could be a blockage at the firewall mounted block that is discussed above. This block has a piston that shifts left and right. I would not think that it could block all flow, but you never know. Mike
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1970 AMX, one step forward, one step back. Both steps cost time and money.
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6881 |
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I've dealt with a few crusty old ones that you think would never completely seal, but they do.
Real pain to get apart when all gummed up also. That little nylon pin is usually done and after getting out the pistons, melting out the pin is the safest way to get at the pin bore to clean it for the new pin.
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BU1
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/11/2016 Location: MN Status: Offline Points: 2011 |
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Deleted my post due to me giving incorrect information. Edited by BU1 - Mar/19/2023 at 8:04pm |
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AMO #2726
#1 1968 AMX Rally Green 343 Z code 4spd since 1975 #02642 #2 1968 AMX Rally Green 290 N code 4spd since 2019 #02959 |
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401MATCOUPE
AMC Addicted Joined: May/20/2010 Location: Salisbury, MD Status: Offline Points: 5367 |
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The front distribution block if completely offset will NOT block fluid flow.....you need to crack the line at the rear proportioning valve inlet, if you have fluid there, then it is most likely the rear proportioning valve or the rear brake hose is collapsed. If you have fluid coming out of the outlet of the rear proportioning valve, then the hose is most like likely the culprit, I have rebuilt many rear proportioning valves with only about a 30 % success rate of them not being corroded internally and junk. You can buy a new valve from In-Line Tube, for MOPAR that works perfect and save you a lot of trouble.....I can't remember if it has the bracket, but it is not a necessity....
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Ross K. Peterson
68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar) 68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A 69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8 70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO 74MatX,401,AT,Prototype 74MatX,401,AT |
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BU1
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/11/2016 Location: MN Status: Offline Points: 2011 |
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I stand corrected on the post I made about the pressure switch blocking flow. Thanks, Ross. Never too old to learn............
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AMO #2726
#1 1968 AMX Rally Green 343 Z code 4spd since 1975 #02642 #2 1968 AMX Rally Green 290 N code 4spd since 2019 #02959 |
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troutwilly
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Carriere, MS Status: Offline Points: 992 |
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My thoughts: Did you change out the master cylinder? If so there may not be any or not enough clearance between the rod from the booster and the MC piston rod. Need a couple thous there. If there is fluid to the proportioner (at the rear) but none through it, then the proportioner is bad. Do the Chrysler one or a Wilwood adjustable proportioner will also fit, mounted upside down so you can get to the adjuster easily. If there's fluid through the proportioner but not to the wheel cylinders, then your flex hose from the frame to the rear axle is collapsed. I don't believe the pressure differential block (on firewall) will stop fluid flow.
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Bill O.
70 AMX |
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timj5130@gmail.com
AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/31/2019 Location: Madison Wi Status: Offline Points: 132 |
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Thanks Bill
That is what I just decovered. The push rod that comes out of the booster into the MC. I see it has an adjustable end on ithe MC side of the pushrod. I shortened it a little and I seem to be able to press the pedal furthure. It was rock hard before. Have any of you ever had to adjust the pushrod? Also, I discinnected the rear brake line at the top of the protioning valve. When i depress the pedal, there is no fluid coming out of the line. (Just an Insignificant amount) So now I dont think its the proportioning valve at all because no fluid is getting over to the proportioning valve. I have plenty of fluid to the front discs. I installed a new master cylinder and the booster was rebuilt by American Parts Depo (APD) in Ohio. They send it to a rebuilder nearby. Are there spacers inbetween the booster bracket and the booster? Maybe that changes the "throw" of the push rod. I took this apart over 3 years ago, so I dont remember if there were spacers. So I hope by process of elimination, I get this figured out. I'm hoping many of you have experienced this and can advise me. Thanks to all of you who have responded. Tim Johnson 1968 AMX
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Tim Johnson
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scott
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Wildwood Pa. Status: Offline Points: 3501 |
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The best thing I did to make brake bleeding easy was get a hand vacuum pump & bleed 'em with that. Done in minutes, every time, by myself. might be worth a try. Or your new master could be bad. |
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