New owner of a 68Javelin-Mod questions Maintenance

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   Its good to reach out here for goals, and I like that you said you were willing to save for the future.

To me, the first thing to do is to get it running and address any safety issues.  Make sure the brakes work well and the suspension and steering are solid.  Its easy to forget that these classics are over 50 years old.

There are lots of good threads on here, and the 68 javelin will have lots of support (many parts are common with the AMX).

My first purchase suggestion is to get at TSM.  This is the factory AMC Technical Service Manual.  Its a book about 2" thick, and available from specialty retailers for about $50.  Its a wealth of information with everything  from window adjustments to electrical info and brake adjustments.

Get familiar with American Parts Depot (APD), Kennedy American, Galvins Rambler parts, and Amark.  There are other vendors that support AMC's.  APD and Kennedy are in Ohio, so they are likely your closest option for specialty parts.

Keep posting questions, there are lots of helpful and knowledgable people here.  And once you get to 30 posts you can load a pic of your new project!

have fun,
Mike

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mbwicz Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Feb/20/2019 Location: Buffalo, NY Status: Offline Points: 1989	Post Options Post Reply Quote mbwicz Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/05/2021 at 5:55am
	Its good to reach out here for goals, and I like that you said you were willing to save for the future. To me, the first thing to do is to get it running and address any safety issues. Make sure the brakes work well and the suspension and steering are solid. Its easy to forget that these classics are over 50 years old. There are lots of good threads on here, and the 68 javelin will have lots of support (many parts are common with the AMX). My first purchase suggestion is to get at TSM. This is the factory AMC Technical Service Manual. Its a book about 2" thick, and available from specialty retailers for about $50. Its a wealth of information with everything from window adjustments to electrical info and brake adjustments. Get familiar with American Parts Depot (APD), Kennedy American, Galvins Rambler parts, and Amark. There are other vendors that support AMC's. APD and Kennedy are in Ohio, so they are likely your closest option for specialty parts. Keep posting questions, there are lots of helpful and knowledgable people here. And once you get to 30 posts you can load a pic of your new project! have fun, Mike
	1970 AMX, one step forward, one step back. Both steps cost time and money.

Buzzman72 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/15/2009 Location: Southern IN Status: Offline Points: 2725	Post Options Post Reply Quote Buzzman72 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/05/2021 at 6:01am
	The transmission behind the 290 is the "weak sister" of the combination. There aren't many things you can do to that transmission to make it live behind a motor with some muscle. A cool swap would be to step up to a 304. Hardly anyone wants to build a 304, yet JCISWORTHY here on the forum built a "grocery-getter" that dynoed at 340 HP. While the 360 is what everyone suggests building, because you can get more "bang for your buck," some of us enjoy blowing the doors off one of the unsuspecting Big Three's and doing it with fewer cubic inches. [Remember, Ford stuck with the 302 for decades...and the original Z-28 Camaro was a 302 as well.] A '72-up 304 with a Chrysler-built 998 automatic will be a better direction to start. First, the 290 crankshaft won't mate to the Chrysler automatics without modification. But if you have the '72-up engine, then you can step up to a 700R4 or 200-4R GM transmission using an adapter kit from Novak or Advance, and you suddenly can have overdrive. THAT opens up a LOT of options. The 304 has better flowing heads than the 290. With the Chevy 305 1.84" diameter intake valves and 1.5" exhaust valves, the 304 can breathe even better. And the Chevy valves will clear the cylinder walls, unlike the bigger valves used in the 360 and 401 AMC engines. [You can also just put a 304 crank in the 290 block, but without the 304 heads, you're still leaving something on the table. 290 has 7/16" head bolts while the 304 has 1/2", so you can either use adapter sleeves OR you can have your block tapped for the 1/2" head bolts. Just an option; picking up a complete 304 and building it will save some of the machine work.] For a camshaft, think big...and then think again. If the intended use is mostly street, a cam such as Howard Cams' 310101-12 would be ideal...stock sounding idle, but big torque up to around 4500-4800 rpm. Which is going to be sufficient for a cruiser. You won't get the "rumpety-rump" idle, but then that "rumpety-rump" idle won't allow you to sneak up on anyone. [I love the street sleepers.] With an overdrive automatic, you can move up to 4.10 rear gears and still have the equivalent of a 2.87 gear in OD on the highway. When you START messing with the rear end, go to the Dr. Diff 1-piece axles and something like the Eaton True-Track limited slip differential. In fact, you MIGHT want to START with the axles and the diff. Because building extra torque to the engine without figuring out how to reliably get it to the ground is a recipe for breaking what are probably already well-worn parts. Getting rid of the tapered axles and splined hubs will save you some potential heartache down the road. Once you have the engine, transmission, and rear end sorted out, you can move on to suspension upgrades...probably a good idea with a 50+ year-old car. Any way you go...bring money. Edited by Buzzman72 - May/05/2021 at 6:05am
	Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/05/2021 at 6:43am
	Well, get it running AS IS first, and drive it. It will have adequate power for driving as long as everything is working. Most importantly you will learn the car as you go, and can better plan what you want from it as you drive it. Most of what you do will be needed for any upgrades anyway -- anything you do to the chassis/body/interior will pretty much stay. As far as engines, you have a lot of choices! For starters though, remember that the 210 hp 290 is rated using the old GROSS power method. Honestly, that's still what most hot rodders use to estimate power because it gives a higher number. Since 72 engines have been rated using a NET power rating, which gives about a 28% lower numbers (210 hp GROSS = 151 hp NET). Many modern four cylinders develop a lot more, but then the cubic inches mean the V-8 puts out a lot more torque at low speeds, but you got that part! The numbers really are just bragging rights, and I'd forget numbers -- just drive it as is and use the old "butt dyno" as you make improvements. If 100 hp "feels strong" to you, that's all I'd worry about. Keeping it AMC, you can use any other 67+ AMC V-8. 360s are, as stated, the best "bang for the buck" and the most common, being produced from 1970-91 (mostly in Jeeps). The 304 is the second most common, produced from 70-81 (only in Jeeps from 80-81, 79 last year for cars). Then there are six cylinders. The Javelin came stock with a 232, even in the 70s, so it's not a bad idea, though it seems like a regression here. BUT -- if you go with a modern 4.0L, it has a good bit more power than the 290. Factory rating is 190-195 for 91-06 models, and that's NET HP, so comparable to 243 GROSS HP. Torque is even more, but I don't recall the conversion for torque. The 4.0L puts out about the same power as a STOCK 1974 360/4V, with the 360 having a bit more torque. So that would actually make a great powertrain (coupled with a five speed or the AW4 four speed/OD auto) for a driver Javelin. And just think, when you dust that stock 80s 5.0 Mustang WITH A SIX.... (and yes, it's been done!!). There's a good bit you can do with the 4.0L too. A better cam, and even stroke it to 4.6L (0.030" overbore with 258 crank, 4.0L rods, stroker pistons). All makes more power.
	Frank Swygert

Heavy 488 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/27/2019 Location: In the Status: Offline Points: 3553	Post Options Post Reply Quote Heavy 488 Report Post Thanks(2) Quote Reply Posted: May/05/2021 at 6:58am
	Just leave the car as is and just drive it as a testament to 5 decade survival. Don't get sucked into a modification quagmire. When you're done, you'll still get blown into the tall grass by a later model Toyota that get s 25 mpg

Sonic Silver Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Nov/23/2011 Location: East Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 7949	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sonic Silver Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/05/2021 at 8:43am
	My memory is that the 290 was rated at 200 horsepower with a 2 barrel and single exhaust and 225 with a 4 barrel and dual exhaust. The 210 hp rating that has been referred to was the 304 engine gross rating.

Trader Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6881	Post Options Post Reply Quote Trader Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/05/2021 at 9:06am
	The problem with a 290 you may run into is fuel. The piston sits 0.060" down the hole and they are higher compression motors. I know "here" there is no premium that a 290 will run on without detuning significantly. I have a 290 and plan a build in the near future. The 290 came without a flywheel and that would cost $400 US so plan B is I picked up a 304 cheap and will put the complete rotating assembly + heads in the 290, use the 290 block and shave 0.020" off the still good stock pistons for 0 deck. This should yield a 0.045" QH and 9.5:1 SCR. Input from Ken, the 304 heads flow much better and it should be 330+ HP for a budget 290 pump gas build. Just an option. Yes Boris, I'm stroking a motor! Typo, no way I'm getting the same flow as JC on my 304 heads. 330HP does seem very achievable though. Edited by Trader - May/05/2021 at 10:21am