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Need a Big Nut Yoke, broke it

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/14/2021 at 8:31am
Try giving these people a call:
The mid 50's pinion yoke looks very much like what you have.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote whatisthat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/15/2021 at 1:43am
Thanks guys, I appreciate everyone digging these dinosaur bones up for me! I will buy one from one of you to fix my baby soon but at the moment it’s like a brown cloud over my vehicles & now my dead reliable daily driver went down on Tues. Oh Joy, now that makes it 5 in total recently ...WTH?!? So there’s the broken yoke, one 5-Spd grenaded, dropped exhaust seat in the ‘05 hemi ...utterly Destroyed, & now my driver overheated, etc. Anyhoo,  I’m down to my good old Dakota R/T that I recently bought back from the insurance Co & have been piecing back together after being stolen from work in broad daylight. It looked & smelled like dirty hoboes lived in it for a month but it was recovered a week later after a high speed chase ...I’m not even exaggerating a little. Whew, what weird series of events but such is life, just time, money & sanity right? Lol ...too soon, not so funny yet, haha!


65 American 440H
1970 AMX 390 4-SPD
1987 Shelby CSX, 1992 Spirit R/T, 2005 Magnum R/T, Etc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/15/2021 at 10:01pm
In the mean time, sort out *why* it broke -- you said air bag setup and pinion angle. Get that right else you'll break your precious replacement too. 

1961 roadster american, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 american, 199ci, T14
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/18/2021 at 6:25am
He also mentioned frozen u-joint. If that was binding up it had a lot to do with it!

Loc-tite for splines isn't necessary. The splines inside the yoke and on the pinion shaft just need to be clean and dry (no oil/grease!). Then drive it back (2x4 block on end) to the correct measurement and tighten the heck out of the nut (tightens toward front of car). I had to resort to a pair of 24" pipe wrenches (biggest wrenches I had) way back when. The pipe wrenches left marks on the nut, but it was tight! One on the driveshaft (right on the end where the yoke is welded in... right on the weld, in fact, so the shaft isn't damaged) and propped against the floor, 170 pound me on the ground holding to the body and pushing as hard as I could with my legs on the other, rear of car on ramps for clearance. It worked. Man that was a LONG time ago (40 years!!), but after slinging the driveshaft out from under the car a couple times it was memorable! Better on a lift and hanging from the long wrench.  The TSM calls for 200 ft/lbs on that nut IIRC.

Tom has a good write-up of the proper way with the measurement on his page here:
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote whatisthat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/18/2021 at 4:26pm
I bought it with the air suspension already on it. Never had an issue until it snapped. Frozen u-joints are never good, my fault for not checking them. I have the wrenches & watched his vid too. Thanks
65 American 440H
1970 AMX 390 4-SPD
1987 Shelby CSX, 1992 Spirit R/T, 2005 Magnum R/T, Etc
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