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My SC/Rambler |
Post Reply | Page <1 910111213 24> |
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Hurst390
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/20/2008 Location: secret Status: Offline Points: 5752 |
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Also if those are standard chevy connecting rods the trick is to turn them around so they are centered in the piston. And chamfer the big end on the now radius side of the journal.
I've ran them offset, not a deal breaker.
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SC/Hurst Rambler
11.62 120 100% Street Legal |
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amx600rr
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/26/2014 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 420 |
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When you remove the 6 gallery plugs from the 343 pay attention to the fact the the plug in the passenger front gallery is SHORTER than the other 5. Make sure that short plug goes in the passenger front gallery! If you look at the end of the threads in the gallery you will see the oil feed passage that supplies oil to #1 Cam journal, #1 Main Journal, #1 Rod bearing and oil supply to the distributor. Putting in a long plug or putting in the plug too deep blocks off the oil supply to the cam, crank and dizzy. Bad things will happen.
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LetsFNgo
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/02/2022 Location: NJ Status: Offline Points: 751 |
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Thank you for the heads up on the different length plugs. I need to get my square sockets from work to remove them so it’ll probably get done this weekend.
No he didn’t mill the rocker stands down for the pushrod guide plates. I understand that the geometry will change slightly but as long as the pushrods are the proper length to put them in the center of the valve stem I don’t really see a problem. I’m going to check everything as it’s going together and if I’m not happy I can always have it changed. Hopefully this weekend I’ll have some pictures cutting up the one parts car and unloading the other off my open trailer.
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Hurst390
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/20/2008 Location: secret Status: Offline Points: 5752 |
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SC/Hurst Rambler
11.62 120 100% Street Legal |
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LetsFNgo
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/02/2022 Location: NJ Status: Offline Points: 751 |
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So over this weekend my dad and I spent a couple of days cutting up the white 290 auto parts car. I sort of feel bad for cutting it up. But I need the complete inner and outer rocker structure for my car, as well as sections of the roof, the whole rear tail panel, and large sections of quarter panel. In order to store the other parts car I had to cut up this car.
Also spent some time under my S/C realizing how badly this car was butchered in the past to fit the tubs. When I purchased the car I knew it was minitubbed but never figured out how the moved the rear frame rails to fit. What was done has basically destroyed the back half of the car. It will never be correct, and trying to fix it would involve basically splicing the rear half of a car to what is left of a driver side front frame rail. So it’s going to stay tubbed, and at some point I will have to find a way to strengthen the back half of the car since it’s held together with 40+ year old fiberglass. Hopefully in the next couple weeks I plan to finish welding in the right front frame rail, reassemble the front suspension and steering, and start assembling the engine. I also need to put the interior back in the car for MCACN barn finds. In hindsight I should’ve emailed them before I took the car apart, but didn’t think they’d be interested and being accepted caught me off guard. Thank you.
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LetsFNgo
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/02/2022 Location: NJ Status: Offline Points: 751 |
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Update time. Got a chance to start assembling the engine tonight. The car became a shelf for all the engine parts and the easiest way to move them is to install everything.
Washing and cleaning the block for a final time after running a die grinder over a bunch of sharp corners and casting flash to clean everything up. Put the cam in first after coating it with Joe Gibbs Driven assembly lube. Made sure it spun nice, then spun the engine over, cleaned and lubed all the main bearings and installed an sce rear main seal with a little permatex #3 on it since the seal instructions say no silicone. Installed all the main caps and torqued everything in 3 steps to 110 ft/pnds. Then installed the timing set. After talking to a couple other engine guys I’m friends with I put the cam in at 4 degrees retarded since it was at 100 straight up and the cam wants 106. 4 back should get me in that ballpark and I have plenty of valve clearance. Also picked up an Edelbrock Torker from someone local on the board. Thanks again Perrybones. And picked up a few other parts while I was there. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the rotating assembly in and get the timing cover and heads on. Mains are all spec’d at .002 with the #5 being a touch more, .0025, rods are all .0025. Should have more pics tomorrow.
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LetsFNgo
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/02/2022 Location: NJ Status: Offline Points: 751 |
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Got some work done today. Rotating assembly is in and done. Everything went together nice after I ran to the machine shop to borrow a better ring compressor than the one I had.
Clean room assembly area Here’s the assembled bottom end Turning torque once assembled. Was planning to get the heads on, got the arp studs in the block and dropped the head on the dowels and hit a wall. These are bottomed out in the block. Called arp and discussed and they’re sending me the correct size studs and I’m returning the incorrect set. A review I found on summit found the same issue. I was going to assemble the front cover but ran out of steam and wanted to hang out with my wife and baby. Tomorrow I’ll get the front cover on and see what else I can do.
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LetsFNgo
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/02/2022 Location: NJ Status: Offline Points: 751 |
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Update time.
Yesterday got the front cover mostly assembled and installed the balancer. I’m waiting for the water pump to be rebuilt and shipped from Dan Bailey. Got the engine flipped over and originally planned to use the external feed Aviaid pan I bought. Heads up for anyone that cares, you cannot use the Aviaid pan in a small body with the external feed. It physically won’t clear. So I swapped to a stock pan and got everything put together and set the intake on to see how it all looked. I need to measure for the pushrods but other than that I’m pretty far along. |
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PHAT69AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Online Points: 5905 |
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Were all the critical oil passage details of the distributor drive gear pieces and parts and sprocket and cam checked and verified, and how many and what size oil slinger slots in the cam sprocket front face?
Edited by PHAT69AMX - Jun/09/2023 at 6:18pm |
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LetsFNgo
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/02/2022 Location: NJ Status: Offline Points: 751 |
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I checked the oil path in the cam before I installed it, the rollmaster chain slots looked ok, honestly I didn’t measure them. Everything else is factory parts. When I prime the oil system on the stand I will do it with the fuel pump block off removed to verify I have good oil flow to everything. Thanks for the awesome picture though. That’s very good to have since I don’t think this will be the only amc I build. These cars are addictive!
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