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My first Rambler! '63 Classic Wagon |
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Josh
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/11/2008 Location: Utica/Rome NY Status: Offline Points: 722 |
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There's a 4 inch difference in wheelbase between a '65 Ambassador and his wagon, a lot of the stuff will work but I'm thinking the engine crossmember may be different, which he will need. I'd have to check my parts book. If it was a 63 or 64 Ambassador it'd be a direct swap.
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‘66 Marlin, 327/M10
‘70 Rebel Machine, 390/M12 ‘74 Javelin AMX, 401/727 ‘80 Concord DL, 258/904 ‘98 Cherokee, 4.0/AW4 |
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Rocknthehawk
AMC Apprentice Joined: Dec/09/2010 Location: Central Mass Status: Offline Points: 116 |
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Wow, looks like you're really kicking butt on this! Hurry up with the sheetmetal so you can enjoy getting it bagged!
I thought my car was overwhelming, but man! You've got more patience than me, for sure. Looking great
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estes
AMC Apprentice Joined: May/31/2011 Location: Webster, ny Status: Offline Points: 93 |
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You made your rust repair look so easy! |
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estes
AMC Apprentice Joined: May/31/2011 Location: Webster, ny Status: Offline Points: 93 |
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Progress....
Floors are repaired, por 15'd and Bedliner applied. The tailgate's hinges ripped/rusted out. So I cut out the bad parts and boxed it in. Horribly bondo'd doorskin is gone! I'm pretty fortunate that the left side quarters are pretty good.... Unfortunately, the passenger side is pretty hosed. That's all for now. |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19611 |
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That's correct -- the torque tube and rear axle are the same in the Classic/Ambo, but the crossmember is different for the 4" longer 65-66 Ambo. A V-8 63-66 Classic/63-64 Ambo/65-66 Marlin crossmember will be needed.
Or just make and weld perches to the 196 crossmember. The 196 doesn't have any perches, so that's easy. I used rectangular tubing (2"x3") between the engine mounts and 196 crossmember to put a 4.0L in my 63. The height of the Ambo perches above the crossmember should be the same as on the Classic with V-8, so measure that then get two 4-5" lengths of 10 gauge rectangular tubing 3" wide by whatever that height is (or close -- a little taller won't hurt, shorter might -- depends on how close the pan is to the crossmember, you need 1/4" clearance). If needed you can make spacers from flat plate to make the height closer. I drilled the tubing to fit the engine mounts, bolted up, then lowered the engine in place. Make sure it's where it needs to be, then mark the holes where the 196 mounts bolted through the crossmember. Drill and tap the holes for 3/8" FINE THREAD bolts. I used lock washers and lock-tite just to make sure. 10 gauge is roughly 1/8" thick, and is just thick enough for fine threaded bolts. You can't get your hand inside the tubing for a nut. If you use spacers you may want to weld them to the bottom of the tubing so there is a bit more metal to tap into. You can drill from underneath on a lift, but DO USE SAFETY GLASSES!! Goggles would be better. I've had metal filings hit my eye brow and fall into my eye behind safety glasses. Had ot have small bits of metal drilled from an eye TWICE -- it's not fun! They use a small drill bit, but don't actually drill the metal out. What the bit removes is the rust stain. If it's not flaked off the white of your eye can stain an orange color. Only saw that once (an old guy with an orange tinted eye!) and wondered what it was, don't want it to happen to me! |
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Frank Swygert
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BeerBuzz
AMC Apprentice Joined: May/28/2010 Status: Offline Points: 154 |
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Hmmm what's the plan for the door skin? Fab work looks good.
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estes
AMC Apprentice Joined: May/31/2011 Location: Webster, ny Status: Offline Points: 93 |
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I've got an NOS door skin i picked up from Kennedy American that i'm planning on installing this weekend. I just want to treat the inside of the door first, applying por15 to the rust and lubing the window mechanism. Frank, thanks for the words of wisdom regarding the V8 swap. Getting metal drilled out of your eye sounds horrible! I think I may wear my safety glasses all the time now! |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19611 |
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Like I said, they don't actually drill the metal out, it's the rust stain left by leaving a flake of metal in overnight. That last time the metal had actually stuck in my eye, so it was (relatively -- we're talking about an eye-ball here!!) deep. They don't want to drill through your eye! I suppose they could, ya know. The doc puts you in a pitch black room with your head in a steadying device. You're not clamped in, just has a chin and forehead rest, and I seem to recall some pads at my temples. The drill is small and slow, looks like a pen light with a drill bit in the center. And the light. That's all you stare at, and why the pitch black room. A few deadening drops in the eye, then set your head and stare straight ahead -- don't blink!! That last time took nearly five minutes and both the doc and I were a bit stressed at the end. I think he was sweating as much as me!! But he got it all...
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Frank Swygert
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DocCreer
AMC Addicted Joined: Oct/03/2009 Location: Portland Oregon Status: Offline Points: 1568 |
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I feel for you.frank...as the same thing happened to my dad.before
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61 American
82 eagle limited |
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DocCreer
AMC Addicted Joined: Oct/03/2009 Location: Portland Oregon Status: Offline Points: 1568 |
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And estes,what you have done here is awesome..especially the floors
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61 American
82 eagle limited |
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