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Lots of questions as I consider getting an I6 Ramb |
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MykeNytemare
AMC Fan Joined: Mar/26/2021 Location: Orlando, FL Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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Posted: Mar/26/2021 at 4:56pm |
Hello everyone,
This is similar to my intro post as I'm a newbie but essentially anyone who has a hopped up I6 I'd be interested in hearing from!
I am thinking about getting an American/Rambler (likely 66-69) as a daily driver that I can modify/upgrade (modernize) as I go along in the next few years. I only have experience with some Mopar and Ford stuff from this era, and currently am working on a 77 Fiat Spider. I definitely want the I6 engine for durability and such, but would want to eventually do some work to it for a little more power/torque. I would be interested in doing the 4.0L head and even adding power steering if that is possible, and updating the brakes to disc all around and lower the pedal effort with a modified bore master cylinder or a booster (again, if thats possible). What are the best places (any in Florida) to find AMC engine performance parts? The AMC Suspension place, Control Freaks in less than an hour from my house, so I know I can do an IFS and 4-link to help it ride like a new car....but I have no idea if I would be truly better off getting a Falcon or Dart due to the much more apparent aftermarket support. I know I need to search the forum and I will come across information, but I wanted to see if anyone here could give some advice if getting parts and even upgrading a Rambler is likely to be a difficult endeavor due to rarity/party availability. Thanks everyone!
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1ManGang
AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/01/2018 Location: Norfolk, VA Status: Offline Points: 249 |
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Myke,
Welcome to the Forum. I am away from by books but the American probably had less than 100 advertised HP coming out of that six back in the day when it was brand new. I think you could get a 199 or a 232 between 66 and 69. I also believe in stock form you had a 1brl carb and a 2brl carb on the top 232. A modern ignition and good look at how much Vacuum you have would be a quick way to get a little more performance. I wouldn't be surprised if you needed to do some work to get the vacuum where it needs to be. Power steering was an option but the car was so small and it was extra cost so frequently that box wasn't checked. The wheels were between 4 and 5 inches wide so you really weren't benefitting from power steering like you would have on a big Chrysler or Cadillac. It isn't as easy as a new car but if you are moving, it isn't bad. Transmissions were 3spd or Automatic. Most were on the column. Both are antiques by todays automotive standards. In their time, they were as good as everybody else's transmissions but time has marched on. The engine block change in 72 and a more usable auto tranny choice for modern daily driving, IMO would be the 904 but it is still a 3spd and will likely whine a little if you do alot of Highway driving. There are 4 speed automatics you could put in and other manuals. The suspension was good for running around in. It is not a upper and lower ball joint like modern cars or Control Freaks. Plenty of miles have been put on this old design. There are things that wear out and the trunnions (precursor for the Upper Ball Joints) do not have a grease fitting and do wear out. I have seen people daily drive original cars quite successfully with an upgraded ignition. It isn't the fastest thing out there but you probably won't see another during your daily commute. I would recommend getting and driving one before making all the modifications. Most people aren't usually in "Fast and Furious" situations in their daily commutes. Body condition and parts are starting to be the problem with 50 year old cars. New stuff isn't very available. Used stuff is either used up, in another state, stashed by the owner for another project or already crushed. Pay attention to body condition and be prepared to do some work because 50 year old cars were not built to be daily drivers this late in life. Glass is also a little bit of a hassle since none of it is usually stocked anywhere and the Windshield and Back glass have gaskets. Offenhauser and Clifford made 4brl intakes for the I6. The jeep guys used them a good bit so you will be able to find some used parts. I ran across a Craigslist ad a few days ago with a intake, carb and header. Offenhauser is still in business and may still be casting the or have some manifolds in stock, you would need to call. You would probably want a different cam and that may be challenging since you probably don't want your car to drive like a jeep. The headers will be challenging also because they usually are for jeeps, not cars. Clifford sold some for cars but they aren't easily identified and don't come up for sale often. If you want better performance, you should look at Newcomer Racing in Concord, NC. He has a 300hp build for a little over 6 grand. Gets you the 4.0 head , too. With all that HP, you would need a different trans and rear axle. There are some other builders still out there who are messing with the SIX so he is not the only game in town. I am not aware of many people modernizing the engine controls like he is. It isn't hard to put more money in the car than it is worth so keep that in mind when you are getting into it. It sounds like you have gone through some cars already and this one may just be the next on the way to a follow-on. We had a guy locally daily driving a 67-69 Rambler for a few years and he might still be but I haven't seen him or it for a while. He told me it was very reliable but he also told me about pulling into the auto parts store for the emergency repairs using parts not made for his car. A little excitement never hurt anybody! You should probably have some spares stored close by if you want to drive regularly or long distance. (Alternator, Voltage Regulator, Water pump, Radiator) I might have said too much, people might think I know something. I find that it is usually much easier if they underestimate you... That might be why I have AMCs. Dave Norfolk, VA
Edited by 1ManGang - Mar/26/2021 at 6:23pm |
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SCRAGTOP
AMC Nut Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Chesapeake, VA Status: Offline Points: 367 |
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Just swap the entire 4.0 and AX-15 Manual tranny from a Jeep Cherokee 2wd. Get everything, harness wiring sensors etc. That will give you cheap horsepower and driveability... Lots of people on here have done that conversion. Best bang fore the buck if you want to retain the 6 banger...
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6768rogues
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6241 |
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I agree about the 4.0 swap. In FL there are plenty of 2 wheel drive Jeeps roaming the earth. With a donor vehicle you can practically build a Rambler. I put a 4.0/AX-15 in my 66 American convertible and it works well.
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Content intended for mature audiences. If you experience nausea or diarrhea, stop reading and seek medical attention.
Located usually near Rochester, NY and sometimes central FL. |
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1ManGang
AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/01/2018 Location: Norfolk, VA Status: Offline Points: 249 |
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I think the important thing here is to get a car before you swap the engine and start mods.
Dave
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Ken Doyle
AMC Nut Joined: Jun/19/2010 Location: Haledon NJ Status: Offline Points: 305 |
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The base engine for 1966 was the 199 six which was rated 128 horsepower, the highest standard horsepower of any U.S. compact car that year. |
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555 |
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And the 232 is not as weak as people think. It is as rugged as any AMC six including the later 4.0. It of course has less power than larger displacements but it's torquey and revs well too. Cam carb electronic spark and good exhaust gets all the low hanging fruit without spending a lot of money. Opening the hood won't impress anyone, if that's really ewhat you're looking for, but I prefer go over flash. Choose smaller diameter tires (to effectively increase axle numerical ratio) so that it revs a bit more at 60 mph, and your mileage will drop but it'll be more up in it's power band, and in good order a few hundred RPM won't harm it in any way.
But yeah, lol, as 1ManGang says, start with a runnign car and see what you've got first. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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Ken Doyle
AMC Nut Joined: Jun/19/2010 Location: Haledon NJ Status: Offline Points: 305 |
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I had a '67 Rogue with a 232 2-barrel, completely stock right down to the points ignition. After taking people for a ride, I often had to open the hood to prove to them it's wasn't a V8. That car went like the wind!
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fts1966
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jun/02/2018 Location: Kansas city MO Status: Offline Points: 123 |
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I'm fairly new to these Ramblers as well mine is a 69 232-6, 1brl carb, 3spd aluminum borge warner auto, pertronix ignition its a fun little car it will not bun its tire on take off but gets up and scoots around just fine has plenty of torque on the hi way and will cruise at 80 with out any effort at all. mine is pretty much original stock form just replacing things as it needs.
I too want to do poser brakes I'm trying to find a donor so I can get at least front disc you will enjoy the little much
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wittsend
AMC Nut Joined: Apr/15/2020 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 430 |
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So, that is where (FL) they (2WD, 4.0, AX-15) all are. Here in So. California all I find are 4X4, Auto, Jeeps. Maybe it has something to do with meeting smog certification when sold new??? There was a Craigslister that had the right combination but no paperwork. I'm told the JY's here won't take the car if there is no paperwork. So, then I'd be stuck with a carcass I can't get rid of. Seems like you just can't win. There is always somethin getting in the way.
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'63 American Hardtop
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