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Loose Idler Arm

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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/12/2022 at 10:17pm
Well, honestly, it WAS designed to be a ... not bearing, but rubber-bushed pivot. They work surprisingly well, and last what, 50,000 miles? In spite of the issues in this thread I've not had any issues at all with idler arms in my experience.

The Mevotek part is sleeve-rubber-sleeve. Maybe the issue is counterfeit parts, appalling quality of past brands, or aged parts, .... ?


The motion is low speed, moves only about 90 degrees max, not particularly precise, and not a lot of force. 



Edited by tomj - Feb/12/2022 at 10:19pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2022 at 10:25pm
The one from APD doesn't pivot, either.

Cool. Looks like I get to modify it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/14/2022 at 7:09am
I have never replaced an AMC idler (yet).  But I have replaced a number of Mopars that are virtually identical.  What you have to keep in mind is that the bushing does not 'rotate' per se but distorts/deflects.  The correct way to install them is to have the steering in the straight position before you torque the pivot bolt.  In this manner the bushing only distorts at the most 45 degrees from a neutral position.  I'd bolt the idler to the crossmember without the tie rod attached and just see for yourself how the rubber behaves when you move the idler.  You have to keep in mind that this acts just like an upper or lower suspension bushing.  Neither of those rotate, only deflect/distort.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/27/2022 at 9:35am
Did someone find a solution?
I just found mine loose, about 1/16" play in it. Went to buy a new one and Moog K3074 is now obsolete and they made the Delphi TA5927 also. Shipping Amazon from the US would be twice the price of the part. Even Rockauto is now double the price for shipping to Canada, but they have no stock either.
I ordered one from e-Bxx, but it won't arrive until June.
In the mean time I, cleaned out the old one, mixed Pematex plastic epoxy, loaded a syringe and injected the epoxy into the "tie rod" end, let it set up, heated the ball end with a torch until I could rotate it, let it cool, cleaned out epoxy from the grease fitting and greased it.
Seems nice and tight, rotates freely, see how long it will last.
When cleaning it, pulled out some black plastic, so likely these have a nylon or other plastic bushing inside from the factory.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickleone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/27/2022 at 12:49pm
Trader,
I was in the shipping business for 20+ years.  There are northern USA Mail and Parcel stores where you can have a Private Mail Box and have packages delivered for a fee.  You cross the border and pick up your package and go home.  Are you close to US border cities?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/27/2022 at 3:35pm
About 2 hours away from the boarder and have used those services before.
If your careful shopping, you can find items on e-xxx that are cheaper shipping/brokerage then the price of gas one way.
It really depends on timing the boarder crossing been several hours to just a few minutes. Then you get the crossing guard that asks "What's an AMC?" and it can go well or downhill very quickly. Last time I just stated old 70's Jeep parts and there was no "deer in the headlight look" and "Have a good day, off you go."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MacGyver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/28/2022 at 10:12pm
Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

Did someone find a solution?
I just found mine loose, about 1/16" play in it. Went to buy a new one and Moog K3074 is now obsolete and they made the Delphi TA5927 also. Shipping Amazon from the US would be twice the price of the part. Even Rockauto is now double the price for shipping to Canada, but they have no stock either.
I ordered one from e-Bxx, but it won't arrive until June.
In the mean time I, cleaned out the old one, mixed Pematex plastic epoxy, loaded a syringe and injected the epoxy into the "tie rod" end, let it set up, heated the ball end with a torch until I could rotate it, let it cool, cleaned out epoxy from the grease fitting and greased it.
Seems nice and tight, rotates freely, see how long it will last.
When cleaning it, pulled out some black plastic, so likely these have a nylon or other plastic bushing inside from the factory.




I'm also curious about "Did someone find a solution?"

I finally got my Javelin out of winter storage recently to find the idler arm nut loose!!
I replaced the idler arm last year because the ball joint end had a fair bit of play in it, but wasn't really
happy about how the new one fit...
It seemed wrong when I installed it, but thought that maybe it was "new and improved"??

The steering seemed overly tight after changing the pitman and idler arms...
Wouldn't return to center after a turn...  Needed to manually correct to center..

Seemed to "break in" after awhile...   Steering did get easier after a bunch of miles!
So all is okay, right??   Guess not!!

After reading this thread, I guess my initial thoughts were correct!!
The nut backed off, making the steering easier!

Trader:  How did your repair of the old idler arm turn out in the end?
Thinking about reinstalling the old one myself!!

What part did you order online to arrive in June?  Have you tried it out??
Good?  Bad?

Has anyone tried replacing just the bushing with the part number
Tom suggested??
That part sure looks like it would function as designed!

I'm surprised that this thread has been quiet for so long!
It's obviously a real issue!!

Mac.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MacGyver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/10/2022 at 10:45pm
Holy crickets!!!

Everyone's idler arm issues went away??  Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CamJam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/10/2022 at 1:37pm
Originally posted by MacGyver MacGyver wrote:

Holy crickets!!!

Everyone's idler arm issues went away??  Confused

Mine didn't, but for a different reason.  

I ordered a Mevotech MS404121 idler arm bushing from Rock Auto for my '73 Javelin.  I just went to install it and the bushing center is .63" while my idler arm bracket measures .70".  I know these things are press fit into the arm, but shouldn't the bushing just slide over the shaft?


Edited by CamJam - Nov/10/2022 at 2:00pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/10/2022 at 4:25pm
Originally posted by CamJam CamJam wrote:

Originally posted by MacGyver MacGyver wrote:

Holy crickets!!!

Everyone's idler arm issues went away??  Confused


Mine didn't, but for a different reason.  

I ordered a Mevotech MS404121 idler arm bushing from Rock Auto for my '73 Javelin.  I just went to install it and the bushing center is .63" while my idler arm bracket measures .70".  I know these things are press fit into the arm, but shouldn't the bushing just slide over the shaft?






Donno? I sold my good idler arm long ago, and think early idler pins are smaller diameter than 70 on up. Not sure, but there has been discrepancies with various parts interchanges.
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