Look what followed me home -- 61 American convert!

Haven't done much at all, but I did get a photo of the door tag!

So one question I had was answered -- paint was originally red (Briarcliffe Red, code 30). The front seat may not be original, but could be. The Trim Code (137) breaks down as 1961 (1), seat type Vinyl Bucket (as far as I can tell, the "3" was for all convertibles, and I may be wrong assuming that for 1961 that was a bucket seat). I don't have my 61 sales literature handy, buckets may not have been available in 61. The interior seat color was Maroon (7). They have been reupholstered in a tan vinyl, and I'll keep them. The door cards and convertible side covers are covered in matching plain vinyl. I think I'll look for some trim for that big blank door panel, or maybe just a tape pin stripe to break it up.

Copied from "What did you do to the AMC today?", 28 January 20223:

I finally got a little time to work on my "new" 61 convertible last Thursday (Jan 26)!! Put the back up on jack stands then made some hooks out of 3/16" bar stock for the "ears" on the spring seats. Didn't compress any more, just made them long enough to catch. Then I put the front up on jack stands. Spring seats were stuck on the upper trunnion spring seat, but had room to come out. Took tires off and carefully pried the seat up. The springs came out fine, but "popped" to the side when they hit the floor (I didn't try to catch them when they came loose from the spring seat!). The hooks are holding fine, will just be a little tricky to get them off. The plan is to jack my 63 Classic up and set it down on the springs one at a time, then take the hooks loose while it's pinned under the car. Then go around to the front of the car (springs will be just behind front tire) and jack it up. If the spring comes out I'll be out of the way. I don't think it will, but better to be safe! I expect I might run out of jack since the 58-63 American springs are so tall though. Luckily I have two floor jacks, so if I have to raise the car 22-23" I can. I figure that's much safer than using my brothers' shop press.

As I type the above I just had a much better idea! I'll use by brother's tractor with front end loader. Then I can position the spring and compress it to get the hooks off and let it up without having to jack my car way up or be anywhere near the spring just in case it decides to go flying. I can also be out away from the shop and everything else that way!

Here are the springs after I took them out. All I did was make hooks from some 3/16" bar stock I had lying around. The rear end was on jack stands, the front on the ground. The springs weren't compressed all the way. When the springs came out and fell to the floor they "popped" sideways. There was no chance the hooks would come loose, but I will have to be careful taking them loose. Will probably use my brother's front end loader (under bucket) and hold the springs down, then move as I let the bucket up just in case one wants to fly away. Can do this away from cars and buildings! This is why most don't like messing with these springs. I typically use 1/16" thick flat stock 5/16" wide to make the hooks. The flat hooks tend to "bite" into the curved holes in the spring seat "ears" and prevent this sideways popping. I didn't have any bar stock handy and wanted to get the springs out that day (28 January).  Compressed coil springs are dangerous!!

Rear axle. Note the new long studs and the helper spring shocks. The shocks will go for sure! I'm debating on getting air springs and removing one or two leafs (or not...) or getting a half leaf overload spring. I've used the half leaf overload springs on these cars in the past with great results. Stiffens the rear suspension without making it hard. The leafs just bolt to the long rear half of the original leaf spring. The Hellwig 550 is all that's needed (https://www.hellwigproducts.com/product-list/helper-springs/), but there are several similar kits that are cheaper. Most of the cheaper ones state 1000-1500 pound increases, but I think they are very optimistic!

The other thing that is "wrong" with the car is the gas tank and fuel pump. It has what appears to be a 10-15 gallon plastic fuel cell suspended under the trunk floor in place of the original fuel tank. I might just leave it, but will have to put an actual fuel filler neck on the left side. One of the previous owners just cut a large round hole in the trunk floor and filled it from the large cap for inserting anti-slosh foam! It has no foam. I certainly don't want to move everything in the trunk and fill the tank from a 5-6" hole in the floor though! Hopefully the tank on one of my parts cars will be usable. If not I will likely use a 16 gallon 64-68 Mustang tank. Easy enough to weld the original filler hole up and add one to the side of a new tank. There is also an electric fuel pump. At least the pump is mounted in the back near the tank!

 

In the above photo you can also see the electric trunk lock solenoid. A previous owner removed the outer lock and Rambler emblem and filled the holes. I think I'll be drilling those back out and removing the electric trunk release. In a convertible the safest place to leave something is in the trunk where it can't be seen or easily got to. An electric release on the dash pretty much negates that, just cut the top and press the button!

They are about 20" tall unloaded. I'll try to remember to measure these when I get them unhooked. They are 10-3/8" tall loaded (installed) with a 95# per inch rate.

Oh, I pulled the rear drums off while I was there. New everything! Brake shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, and springs. No self adjusters, but would be easy to add.

I'm still planning on using disc brakes all the way around. Anyone interested in new rear brakes for a 61-63 American? Should fit 58-63 also.