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K1 4" Stroke Crank

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/23/2021 at 7:28am
Bottleneck, all else being equal, will be head flow. The difference between 300 CFM and 320 CFM at this CID is approximately 150 HP.
Really have to decide were the biggest bang for the buck is. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote garland performce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2021 at 7:35pm
I have 4 K1 4 inch cranks on order they say 5 to 6 months
i just got 2 last month
The k1 cranks have a wider rod pin width a sbc rods do not need to be cut down
I am using callies ultra billet rods in my 454 indy alum block
If you need any help or parts with your project give me a call at the shop
Monday - Friday 7-4  @ 816-547-5695 
John Garland owner of Garland Performance


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ramzilla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/14/2021 at 10:31am
Hi John
It looks like you have a lot of experience with AMC K1 4 inch crankshafts.
I bought mine a year or so ago. I am having RaceTec build my pistons now.
I have a neutral balance flywheel from amclives. Also have ATI super damper. 
Is there a way you help me with getting my K1 crankshaft balanced? 
I am not able to find anyone here in Arizona that is experienced enough to do it. Very nervous about what could go wrong.  
Would appreciate any help.
Larry

Originally posted by garland performce garland performce wrote:

I have 4 K1 4 inch cranks on order they say 5 to 6 months
i just got 2 last month
The k1 cranks have a wider rod pin width a sbc rods do not need to be cut down
I am using callies ultra billet rods in my 454 indy alum block
If you need any help or parts with your project give me a call at the shop
Monday - Friday 7-4  @ 816-547-5695 
John Garland owner of Garland Performance


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DragRacingSpirit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/14/2021 at 3:27pm
Do they still have the early crank flange ?

What a shame to put a brand new billet crank in a lathe, cut the flange area and have to weld a flange in to make it right.
Best 1/4 mile 8.99, 1/8 mile 5.71, 60 foot 1.27, no power adders
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ramzilla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2021 at 12:02pm
AMCers
Can anyone help me to get a AMC K1 crankshaft balanced. Live in Phoenix AZ contacted all shops here no one wants to or is able to balance my Crank. Maybe I have overlooked some places. RaceTec is making pistons now. Contacted Bryant Racing in Cal. because they make crankshafts but no response.
The place where i got my crankshaft on the east about a year or so ago told me if I have all the weights they can have it balanced there but that means I would need to send it back there or purchase another one don't need two.
Thanks in advance Larry 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbwicz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2021 at 12:44pm
Originally posted by Ramzilla Ramzilla wrote:

AMCers
Can anyone help me to get a AMC K1 crankshaft balanced. Live in Phoenix AZ contacted all shops here no one wants to or is able to balance my Crank. Maybe I have overlooked some places. RaceTec is making pistons now. Contacted Bryant Racing in Cal. because they make crankshafts but no response.
The place where i got my crankshaft on the east about a year or so ago told me if I have all the weights they can have it balanced there but that means I would need to send it back there or purchase another one don't need two.
Thanks in advance Larry 

I would think that a good machine shop should be able to balance your crank.  They may be giving you a hard time because they want the other parts to weigh themselves (bearings, rods, pistons, pins, rings).  I would also bring the flywheel and balancer, even though they are neutral balanced.

You could also look up Dan Curtis' shop (Az AMC Restorations), he builds his own engines and can probably help you out also.

Mike
1970 AMX, one step forward, one step back. Both steps cost time and money.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ramzilla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2021 at 5:25pm
Thanks Mike
Arizona is a whole different animal. If you let them build it, all is well. If not, some do want to share their resources to get the work done. They just tell you that the shop they use is backed up for months. There is no way to get in, unless they build it. 
Will keep trying again with Dan Curtis. 
Thanks Larry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote DragRacingSpirit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/16/2021 at 9:48am
The machine shop will want the whole rotating assembly. Crank, rods, rod bearings, pistons, piston rings, flywheel/flex plate and the balancer if they are going to do the job right !
Best 1/4 mile 8.99, 1/8 mile 5.71, 60 foot 1.27, no power adders
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ramzilla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/16/2021 at 10:41am
Thanks
Pistons are being made now. Therefore will have Pistons-rings-pins-locks. The only part I still need is pressure plate.
Thanks for input. Larry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Ramzilla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/16/2021 at 4:24pm
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I have an ATI Super Damper this is from their install instructions about balancing crankshaft.

BALANCE: Zero balance units should not be drilled and should not be on the crankshaft for balancing. Install the damper at engine assembly. Since the inertia weight in the Super Damper is not bonded, it may not be on center until the engine is started. The damper may show out of balance until the engine reaches 2000 RPM the first time and the inertia weight centers itself.
Larry
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