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How to connect electrical in 1958 rambler |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Oh, man, you guys needed to see the damage here. I wonder if I still have those Christmas lights. I showed a friend and he immediately said "rodent, chipmunk, squirrel" and the wires CUT in the AC unit- mice, even the repair guy said he's seen wires simply cut.
Ya need to move out into the country and see what I see. It's not aliens, it's not humans crawling under the camper or into the AC unit. Cut as neatly as with sidecutters. Just because you've never seen it doesn't mean it doesn't happen. So you are saying that someone crawled under my camper and cut wires, and someone snuck up to my house and cut the wires to the Christmas lights - because they were not chewed, it had to be a person, not mice or other rodents? LOL, that's great. Anyway, I suggest you naysayers take a REAL look at the picture. In the upper right area - look at the copper strands sticking out - NOT a clean cut like with wire cutters. Then take a look at the spots I marked - TOOTH impressions, holes in the insulation. These are absolutely chewed. Anyone who has farmed and repaired wires in tractors, combines, barns, cars, etc. knows this is mouse damage. |
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Ruby loye
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/15/2012 Location: wa state Status: Offline Points: 793 |
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If their hungry enough....
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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There's a lot of "it depends" involved. Time of year, temperature, availability of food, etc. I've seen so many results of rodent damage - 7 years of farming and storing grain, combine and wagons and grain heads in the machine shed, wiring in the barn. Then living where I do on the edge of civilization, next to endless fields, about a mile from the river, fields and grass just about 50 feet from where I stored my camper and boat. And - rewiring cars over the years. A clean snip can be a mouse, rat, chipmunk, squirrel (the latter pointed out to me as he's had Christmas light displays snipped cleanly by those cute little critters). Rodents. I tried to find the pictures of the camper wiring damage but since I sold the camper a while back, I cleaned them off my server apparently. If they are looking for nesting material, they'll chew insulation off and carry it away. They seem to love it for their nests. I found a nest in my camper one winter - made of insulation from wires from a junk car I had and of all things, DRYER SHEETS. The nest was lined with both and there were baby mice in the nest (were being the operative word there - their lives were sort of cut short) Funny thing about the camper wiring under the camper - going to the tail lights. I was able to simply strip ends, twist and solder the wires back together in some spots as they were pretty clean cuts. Other spots I had to replace a foot or two of wiring. It was a combination of both types of damage - clean cuts, or chewed insulation. I can recall having to replace one of the elevator sets in the combine one fall - turned it on, backed it out of the shop, engaged things to check everything out - had the access panels to the main elevator open and watched as paddle after paddle had a neat little arched hole chewed through it for access up to the next one and suddenly - stand back - the combine kicked a couple of freshly killed rats out the back, guess they don't like being shucked. There was mouse damage in the cab -luckily the wires were only cut and not chewed to bits so it was a simple fix. |
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1958 rambler super
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/10/2020 Location: Victoria BC can Status: Offline Points: 1201 |
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Hahaha this is a funny trajectory for this thread to take guys! All you guys swapping rodent destroying wiring stories, it feels like the stories are full of enthusiasm too!
Anyhow, back to what farna was asking about, no, the plastic block is not color coded, the black color you were mentioning at the bottom of the plastic block is black electrical tape. There is six wires leaving the block, and aside from not unwrapping the other side yet I have to geuss the same color wires enter the block. The colors in the plastic block with the damaged wires, are red(damaged), brown(damaged), violet, green, orange, yellow. The other plastic block has six wires also, those colors are black, black, white,yellow,green,brown. I have the wiring picture in my tsm and can easily trace where those wires go to so I'm not asking for help about that, just contributing to a ongoing thread. But I also used the multimeter I bot, it's not digital but analog I thinks the word, it had a moving needle to watch for. Last night I tried all the settings except for OHMS on the dial and it still wouldn't move the needle when I touched the positive and negative ends of the probes I geuss their called, there was no movement of the needle, I made sure to have the probes connected to the right places of positive and negative, and I tried the meter at three different spots, along the ends of the battery cable that's still in the car, between the ends of another wire coming and going from the junction block, and the last thing I tried was to put one probe on the end of the wire connecting the distributor and the coil, the little wire on the side, not the spark plug type wire that connects the distributor and the coil, just the small wire. And I got no movement on the needle at any measurement type on the multimeter I selected, not volts at 12 bolts or even lower the 12, and I suppose I wouldn't get a reading that way cus there's no 12v battery in the car, I even tried checking for amps, 0.6 amps and no movement with the needle either....but this morning I tried the OHMS on the multimeter to test my wires and the needle moved! It was exciting! I have got a average of 10.8 OHMS (on the measurement dial behind the needle it was resting at 10.8. I'll explain, it was last 1, and there are four little un-numberd lines, and I assume those are increments of 2 adding up to the next number, 2, the little book I have explains to multiply the number on the measurement dial by the number of OHMS your testing at, so when I have the multimeter set at 10 OHMS I multiply the 1 by ten =10.8) so after I finish the tests of the wires I can get onto the next thing to get to the engine 20 min break in, which I want to happen asap, I already have less then a month before the integrity of the assembly lube dries up too much and leads to possible damage during 20min Initial break in. I was told I have around two months by the engine builder.
Edited by 1958 rambler super - Jun/22/2021 at 4:58pm |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Set the black lead of your meter to a ground, clamp it, whatever it takes, ground that lead to a good solid ground.
Then using only the red lead, touch each wire and watch for - yes, your analog meter movement. Don't sweat the electric part - I've re-wired cars far more complex than that one from scratch (electric fires, no such thing as replacement harnesses in the 70s and 80s) Start your engine and enjoy it. If yours is a stock 6 for an early Rambler, even easier - start it, take it on the road and perform the Dana/Perfect Circle break-in, done. Good assembly lube won't dry, it's sticky, a bit like STP or chain saw bar oil. Don't fret too much over it ..... |
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troutwilly
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Carriere, MS Status: Offline Points: 992 |
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I'm a little mixed up (not unusual) and concerned about some of this. So some questions and comments. Questions: - Have you already installed the engine? - And if you have, have you determined what wires go to the coil, starter solenoid, and starter? Comments: - Never assume the wires on one side of a connector are the same on the other side. I've seen them be different and even identified as different on wiring diagrams. Unwrap and check them out. - The purpose of the battery charger is to take the place of the battery but only provide 10 amps so as not to fry wires/fuses. Connect the positive clip to the wire that connects to the pos battery terminal and make sure it cannot touch any metal (ground, frame, body, etc.). Connect the negative clip to the wire that connects to the neg terminal, except that it is usually grounded to the engine, so connect it to a good ground. - The multimeter will test what you set it on. Volts are usually on a 0 - 20 volt scale, Direct Current (DC), and therefore you would read 12 volts or a little less. Test it out on the charger or battery. Ohms are used to determine continuity or connectivity, to see if the circuit is complete (good) or open (broke) or shorted to ground. If your needle moves under "continuity" testing there is continuity, but it could be a short to ground. As suggested, clamp the neg probe (black) of the multimeter to a good ground and use the red probe on the wires, in both cases. - Some connections are only made (completed) with the ignition key in the "on" position and some are only made with the ignition key in the "start" position, so you need to test both ways to be sure what you have. - I would not test for anything on the output side of the coil (the wire to the distributor). I don't know how much voltage would be provided but believe it could fry your meter. Just test for spark at the plugs by connecting the plugs and laying them on a metal surface and cranking the engine, or use an inductive timing light on one of the plug wires (am I getting to far ahead?). Take your time, think it through (how it should work). There's nothing scarier than smoking wires (I know).
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Bill O.
70 AMX |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Just be aware that not all battery chargers will put out unless it's connected to a load like a battery. Some will run no matter what, some will not - so make sure the battery charger, if that's what you use to power things for testing, is actually putting anything out - meter at the charger clamps.
I have one that does nothing without a battery, then an older one that puts out no matter what is or is not connected. Also - even the 10 amps of a charger can cause damage to 18 gauge and smaller wires. |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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When you set the meter to ohms and touch the ends of the probes together the needle should peg to one side, reading 0 ohms (hmmm BillD, do I have that backwards, will read infinite resistance -- may ohm reading?). Put it on the 0-20 VDC range (Voltage DC. Set on the lowest setting, my cheap analog is 0-20 VDC) and touch to a battery's + and - ends -- it should read close to whatever the battery is (1.5V for a fresh AAA - D cell flashlight battery -- 1.2V for a charged rechargeable cell). If you touch the + side of the meter to the - side of the battery and vice versa, it may read negative voltage or peg to one side (since most analog meters won't go negative). Make sure it's on DC (VDC) and not AC (VAC). It may have a separate AC/DC switch or separate positions to plug the leads into on the meter for AC and DC. That will tell you the meter is working correctly.
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Frank Swygert
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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In resistance mode - reading resistance in Ohms, leads apart is infinite resistance, leads together, no resistance at all - 0 Ohms so the needle should swing over to 0 (or close, may have to adjust or set to 0 on some meters) (On infinite - well, if it could read the resistance of air...... it's not REALLY infinite, just HUGE) Don't need a $350 Fluke for this sort of work. Even a $15 Walmart meter will get you there.
If looking for a lead/wire with power, a test light is fine. Ground the lead and touch the probe of the test light to the ends of wires or connectors and if it lights, it's hot. But if looking for continuity - such as is a switch open or closed, is this wire a ground wire, etc. then a VOM is good - and in my case I use one with a continuity setting so it will beep at me if there is 0 or near 0 resistance - in other words, if two points are connected electrically, it will beep, no need to look and watch for a meter swing. Funny thing - my Micronta meter from Radio Shack of the 1970s still works great for a lot of things, then I got a pocket Micronta meter in the 90s that beeps for continuity - it still works fine. |
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bigbad69
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6668 |
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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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