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So. CAL. Hot Rod Gremlin Project

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pit crew View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/24/2021 at 7:10pm
Looking good. Thumbs Up

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/28/2021 at 2:34am
Damn, that looks awesome, very nice quality to the build. It's gonna be a fun little monster !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THE MENACE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/30/2021 at 6:05pm
Originally posted by Unix Unix wrote:

Damn, that looks awesome, very nice quality to the build. It's gonna be a fun little monster !

 
Thanks Merak!!
I tried to look at the pics of your project, but couldn't get them to come up. May just be because I'm computer challenged LOL! 

Dennis  
 
Former Owner of:
The Craig Breedlove "AERO AMX"

Still Owner:
SS/AMX #9 replica (THE BIG MENACE)
70 AMX 416, EFI, Nash 5 speed   
70 Javelin 401, 727 (Wife's car)
72 Gremlin Autocross Project.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THE MENACE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/30/2021 at 7:59pm

For several years now I’ve been wanting to modify/upgrade to a set of OE lower control arms. I started to do this when I built my 70 AMX, but then went with Control Freaks tubular control arms and their coilovers which I really like on the AMX BTW.

I started with the crusty OE lower arms from the Gremlin and this spherical ball assembly by Rubicon Express. This will eliminate any suspension bind that is caused by the OE type lower bushing when running a lot of positive caster. 

Made a plug for the OE bushing hole to be able to use a hole saw to enlarge the hole for the new ball assembly housing that gets welded in.
Housing gets welded to the arm inside and out which adds a lot of strength to the end of the arm. 

Also added a little strength to the center of the arms while I was at it. 
The length of the spherical ball is the same as an OE bushing, but I did have to drill it out slightly to be able to use the OE Camber adjuster bolt and eccentric.  
All welded up and ready to install. I ended up putting the grease fitting at the top which makes it really easy to get to when the suspension is unloaded.

 



Edited by THE MENACE - Jan/07/2022 at 5:49pm
Former Owner of:
The Craig Breedlove "AERO AMX"

Still Owner:
SS/AMX #9 replica (THE BIG MENACE)
70 AMX 416, EFI, Nash 5 speed   
70 Javelin 401, 727 (Wife's car)
72 Gremlin Autocross Project.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fluffy73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2021 at 12:35am
I would love to box the front control arms on my humpster.  Very nice work!
I am genetically incapable of being Politically Correct.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THE MENACE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/01/2022 at 8:45pm
Originally posted by Fluffy73 Fluffy73 wrote:

I would love to box the front control arms on my humpster.  Very nice work!

Thank Darrin!! 


Former Owner of:
The Craig Breedlove "AERO AMX"

Still Owner:
SS/AMX #9 replica (THE BIG MENACE)
70 AMX 416, EFI, Nash 5 speed   
70 Javelin 401, 727 (Wife's car)
72 Gremlin Autocross Project.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THE MENACE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/01/2022 at 11:07pm
My original plan was to run some later model AMC disc brakes, but after I got started I decided I was going to need something better for playing on an autocross track. Started thinking about Wilwood, but those are a little out of my budget, so I decided to go with the Scarebird 12" front brakes. Scarebird kit doesn't come with calipers, pads, or rotors but are easy to find. I have about $600.00 in this front brake setup.  
While I was test fitting the front suspension and brakes I found that the OE upper A arms would not allow me to install the Scarebird caliper brackets so that the calipers mount behind the spindle because the caliper will hit the side of the OE A arm when turning.  

The Scarebird caliper brackets can interchange left to right so I could mount the caliper forward of the spindle, but I really wanted them rearward of the spindle, so I needed to come up with another plan.

Started looking at building a set of upper A arms myself, but then I remembered the Control Freaks tubular A arms and decided (due to the way they are made) that I might be able to use them to get the clearance needed at the caliper. So, I went looking for a used set of CF upper arms. A couple of weeks later purchased a set of CF upper arms from a forum member here and they have solved the problem as well as giving me a stronger mounting point for the coilovers. Thanks Adam! I did a quick test fit and everything now has good clearance. 
  
       



Edited by THE MENACE - Jan/07/2022 at 5:55pm
Former Owner of:
The Craig Breedlove "AERO AMX"

Still Owner:
SS/AMX #9 replica (THE BIG MENACE)
70 AMX 416, EFI, Nash 5 speed   
70 Javelin 401, 727 (Wife's car)
72 Gremlin Autocross Project.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/01/2022 at 11:38pm
Hey Dennis, FYI if you decide to do a coilover conversion just be aware that those early style lower mount on that A arm is weak. WoosterKevin had his fail so he made new ones that are thicker gauge steel. The tabs broke off. CF changed the design later on due to that issue. IMO those are the better arms because they have bushings in them instead of rod ends.

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THE MENACE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/02/2022 at 12:07am
Originally posted by Mopar_guy Mopar_guy wrote:

Hey Dennis, FYI if you decide to do a coilover conversion just be aware that those early style lower mount on that A arm is weak. WoosterKevin had his fail so he made new ones that are thicker gauge steel. The tabs broke off. CF changed the design later on due to that issue. IMO those are the better arms because they have bushings in them instead of rod ends.

That,s Good to know Keith, thanks!!
 
I had not herd of that problem but was looking at maybe making that bracket stronger. The rest of the arm is very solid, but I can see that mount being a weak point especially with higher spring rates. Like you I also prefer having the bushings instead of the rod ends on these arms.
Dennis     
Former Owner of:
The Craig Breedlove "AERO AMX"

Still Owner:
SS/AMX #9 replica (THE BIG MENACE)
70 AMX 416, EFI, Nash 5 speed   
70 Javelin 401, 727 (Wife's car)
72 Gremlin Autocross Project.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/02/2022 at 9:09am
Viking makes a tapered coil spring that will fit in the stock spring pocket at the top and a shock with a stem on the top will attach to the stock top bracket. Then you'll have the ability to adjust your spring rate and ride height which is a win win for what you're going to do. There's more information in this thread. https://theamcforum.com/forum/coil-over-conversion-advice_topic102353.html  Kevin also found out recently that the QA1 springs are junk so use Vikings instead. I prefer Ridetech shocks because of their warranty but Vikings are also made in the US like Ridetech's are. QA1's are made in the US but with imported components. They're cheap for a reason. Wink

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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