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High Temp Thread Sealant - Help Needed

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Heavy 488 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heavy 488 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/08/2022 at 1:10pm
Originally posted by bbgjc bbgjc wrote:

Teflon tape is for your sink.   Automotive sealants are for cars.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bbgjc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/08/2022 at 1:25pm
You've tried the Indianhead shellac?  It was original designed for aeronautical use.  It can take some serious heat.    I have headers on my AMX and my Ralley Pack junction has never leaked.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zeb jr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/08/2022 at 1:45pm
I have not tried the Indian shellac - I figured I would look both up and decide from there. I wrenched for many years and this one has me baffled - I’ve had it apart going on four times now and started to wonder if it’s the sealant or operator error, lol 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BU1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/08/2022 at 3:41pm
 
 There almost has to be something wrong with the threads on 1 part or another. Tapered pipe threads shouldn't be hard to seal.
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#2 1968 AMX Rally Green 290 N code 4spd since 2019 #02959
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zeb jr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/08/2022 at 4:03pm
I agree - The original fittings came with the rally pak from Amark. After resealing it twice I went to Ace hardware and bought all new fittings thinking I had a hairline crack. It’s definitely something with the sealant because it will be good for about 40-50 miles then it’s leaking again. If it was the fittings I’m thinking it would leak constantly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BassBoat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/08/2022 at 4:12pm
The seal is not at the threads.  The seal HAS to be either a flare or a compression ferrule that seals metal to metal.  A nick on the seat or a crack in the flare could cause a leak, usually a result of over tightening.  On AN fittings you can get copper seals to provide a crushable seal, but I am not aware of any such cheat parts for conventional tubing fittings.  A possibility is a mismatch in the parts, not all tubing and compression fittings interchange, whether Swagelock or Parker or Weatherhead, can not assume the seal angles are the same and that they can be interchanged. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve_P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/08/2022 at 8:07pm
Rally pack pressure parts at the block are all NPT.  It's a thread seal.  NPT requires a sealant or teflon tape by design.  Although brass should theoretically seal...  But if three wraps of Teflon tape isn't sealing, something is wrong.

High Side Leak Lock is better than anything else listed here IMO- this is used in industry on NPT in steam piping.  But as I said, a few wraps of teflon tape should do it as this isn't 300 PSI steam.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zeb jr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/08/2022 at 8:22pm
Steve P. 

I agree - something doesn’t make sense. I figured I had it last summer with the high-temp Permatex. After installing I let it dry for two days before testing it and everything was good until I drove it 30 plus miles yesterday. 

I’m going to try something stronger - either the Indian shellac or aviation grade sealant. I also might try some different fittings to see if I can eliminate the long 1/8 tube that has the rally pak sending unit only an inch and half from the passenger header tube. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/08/2022 at 8:24pm
All teflon tape is not the same and all sealants don't work with temperature or fluids.
As BassBoat states, there is likely a flaw in the threads or mismatch that is not compressing to make the seal.
Try taps and dies to redress the threads and use a product like Hylomar that is pretty much temperature and fluid insensitive to seal.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zeb jr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/08/2022 at 8:45pm
If you look at the Swak and Indian Shellac it’s good to 400 degrees same thing with the Highside sealant. 

I’m thinking I’m might try this:


Says it’s good to 950 degrees - still thinking about eliminating the long 1/8 tube once I take it apart. Just find a tee fitting to screw into the angled fitting coming out of the block. 

I appreciate all the replies and help on this. Will post what I find when I get it apart next weekend. 

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