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Help with Upper Control Arm bolt orientation

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RogerS. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RogerS. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Help with Upper Control Arm bolt orientation
    Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 9:26am
 1970 AMX-  Didn't realize during disassembly that my upper control arm mounting bolts are different in that one of each pair has a longer shank.  For reassembly, does the longer shank bolt mount thru the forward or rear control arm bushing?  Also, do all the bolts mount right to left meaning driver side nut forward and passenger side nut towards rear?  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote BU1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 10:02am

 I don't have a 70 for reference, but on all 5 of the 68-69 AMX's and Javelins I have here, the bolts are oriented as you say, right to left.


 P.S.   Parts book shows bolt part # 400 3978 qty. 4. 


Edited by BU1 - Aug/07/2022 at 10:08am
AMO #2726
#1 1968 AMX Rally Green 343 Z code 4spd since 1975 #02642
#2 1968 AMX Rally Green 290 N code 4spd since 2019 #02959
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RogerS. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote RogerS. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 11:46am
 Thanks BU1.  Interesting they have the same part number as it doesn't look like any of the control arm bolts were changed, all had equal amounts of grease and crud build up when i removed.  I never realized the shank difference until cleaning.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BU1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 12:29pm

 The only thing I can add is that when disassembling my 68, I noticed things like headstamps on bolts were different on one side of the car vs. the other. Would not surprise me that maybe one side of your car had smooth shank bolts, and the other side had full thread. Just a WAG. 
AMO #2726
#1 1968 AMX Rally Green 343 Z code 4spd since 1975 #02642
#2 1968 AMX Rally Green 290 N code 4spd since 2019 #02959
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Talonfcc566 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Talonfcc566 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 12:54pm
Just put my 70 Sept build AMX uppers back in. The bolts I pulled out were exactly the same to include head markings. All four being fully threaded. As mentioned above, the Mater Parts Catalog show all four the same part no. and everything thing in the TSM and MPC show both bolts pointing front to rear. My 70 AMX March build it the same way. Hope this helps.
My Rides: 70 AMX 390 - 4-SPD / L382G(L-100) / 70 AMX 360 - 4-SPD / 1980 CB750C
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Talonfcc566 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 12:58pm
The strange part is the MPC pic shows a shank bolt. Just what we need, more confusion.
Sorry for pic orientation. Hard enough to post let alone spin ..
Talon
My Rides: 70 AMX 390 - 4-SPD / L382G(L-100) / 70 AMX 360 - 4-SPD / 1980 CB750C
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RogerS. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 1:28pm
Thanks for the pics Talon, I also saw that in my TSM.  Here's a shot of the bolt heads.  All washers and nuts are the same.  More confusion as the longer shank bolt is a grade 5 and the shorter shanked a grade 8.  Even though a lower hardened rating I would think the long shank is correct for inside a bushing?  Starting to think BU1's theory is right though no sign of any damage to either side of front end on my car which is still wearing factory paint. It even sports old rusted Bendix calipers.   I'd love to know the story behind this!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BU1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 3:17pm
Originally posted by RogerS. RogerS. wrote:

Thanks for the pics Talon, I also saw that in my TSM.  Here's a shot of the bolt heads.  All washers and nuts are the same.  More confusion as the longer shank bolt is a grade 5 and the shorter shanked a grade 8.  Even though a lower hardened rating I would think the long shank is correct for inside a bushing?  Starting to think BU1's theory is right though no sign of any damage to either side of front end on my car which is still wearing factory paint. It even sports old rusted Bendix calipers.   I'd love to know the story behind this!

 Don't you just love an AMC mystery??  Surely someone will now show up and say, "See, I told you! They ran out of bolts on the line and sent Bob down to Frank's Hardware Store to get more bolts so we could keep the line going!"   SMH!!! Wink


Edited by BU1 - Aug/07/2022 at 3:19pm
AMO #2726
#1 1968 AMX Rally Green 343 Z code 4spd since 1975 #02642
#2 1968 AMX Rally Green 290 N code 4spd since 2019 #02959
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401MATCOUPE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 3:56pm
I have disassembled 100's of 1970-1977 AMC's and have never seen a full thread bolt in the upper control arm position.......admitted, quite odd.
Ross K. Peterson
68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar)
68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A
69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A
70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8
70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8
70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO
74MatX,401,AT,Prototype
74MatX,401,AT
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote troutwilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 9:25pm
I'll add that when I went to the CF front suspension, the instructions clearly stated to re-use the original upper A-arm bolts as they are supposed to be super strong. 



Also, all mine were the long shouldered type.  And the assembly instructions showed the nuts towards the centers.
Bill O.
70 AMX
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