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Head gasket

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IowaTom View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IowaTom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Head gasket
    Posted: Sep/15/2022 at 12:32pm
For those who've replaced their engine's head gasket, on the 195.6 OHV, have you used a sealer or replaced it dry?
If a sealant, what specific brand, please?
I'm not there yet, but will be fairly soon and would like to get 'r done right.  Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote squirrel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2022 at 4:20pm
I just put the 196OHV back together in my 59. I used the BEST gaskets. I installed the head gasket dry, after a good cleaning of the block and head surfaces, using solvent and a fine stone.

The gasket appears to be a graphite composition type, which is a pretty modern design, and not supposed to use sealers with them. It did require retorqueing after the first short drive, and I'll probably do that again some time just to check that it's fully seated.


Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heavy 488 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2022 at 5:04pm
Didn't the mfr supply any info with the gaskets?
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IowaTom View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IowaTom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2022 at 6:00pm
Thanks Guys!
I'd bought a Best gasket off Ebarf and an NOS complete set from Brent Havekost - tho not at the same time - and neither came with instructions.  

I did notice the old cork stuff has shrunk.  Nice!  Ermm  Like TomJ, I'm a huge fan of the Right Stuff and will use it with the gaskets I can use, and in place of the ones I can't.

What I'm not crazy about are the old 'rope' type rear seals.  I don't suppose anyone makes something newer?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wittsend Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2022 at 6:17pm
Checkout Tom Jennings site. I vaguely recall (so double check) he used the Permatex copper spray on his head gaskets. Might help with the oil and water passages but I'd be concern to get it on the metal ring that seals the bore. My concern would be that it might burn back.

I think with more modern gaskets and now the knowledge to check/tighten at intervals it might not be an issue. I plan to forgo the intake gasket and just use "The Right Stuff" sealant. I can't help but think that the head bolt clamping through two gaskets on the manifold side isn't a contributor to the head gaskets failure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote squirrel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2022 at 7:27pm
Maybe we should read the instructions...that aren't packaged with the gaskets....


interesting. I wonder how copper coat sticks to graphite?

Jim
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IowaTom View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IowaTom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2022 at 9:46pm
I appreciate your help, Guys!  I agree that Tom's ramblerlore.com website has a ton of information, well explained.  Jim, thanks also for the Best web address.  

So I bought a set of 12 Fel-Pro valve seals with the correct stem diameter and they're metal jacketed.  They weren't AMC specific but they are umbrella type.  Should there be a difference between intake and exhaust seals?  I'm hoping to use these for all 12 valves.  They just look and feel more substantial than the ones that came in the NOS gasket set.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2022 at 11:09pm
Originally posted by squirrel squirrel wrote:

Maybe we should read the instructions...that aren't packaged with the gaskets....

What! That's crazy talk! Oh what do they know. Lol

I used purple Aviation type 3.  I wish I could say I RTFM'd it first but I may not have....

My machinist didn't know you couldn't put a modern two piece type rear seal in, so he did and it's completely seep free. I have the part number in my parts list but I'm pretty sure it's just the 232 seal, cut. It has no metal backing in it. I thought the oem ones did but I've learned memory isn't a guide (I learn it over and over, ignoring the results).


1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2022 at 11:17pm
Originally posted by wittsend wittsend wrote:

I think with more modern gaskets and now the knowledge to check/tighten at intervals it might not be an issue. I plan to forgo the intake gasket and just use "The Right Stuff" sealant. I can't help but think that the head bolt clamping through two gaskets on the manifold side isn't a contributor to the head gaskets failure.

My engine was assembled with the trough cover gasket. I did what I thought was paranoid retorqueing but weeks later I had coolant seeping up those six bolts. They had COME LOOSE. the other 9 we're right. 

Certainly, that trough cover gasket continued to squash. I had to take the head off, buy a new gasket etc.  

This time I checked torque every few days until it stopped collapsing. I left the trough gasket in place so it probably crushed as much as it was gonna. 

So I'd just check torque over and over until it stops changing. Worst you can do is waste your time. 

Machinist used it. I might have.... But never will again. 

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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IowaTom View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IowaTom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/16/2022 at 10:01am
Hmm...I was inclined to use my old one since it's still intact and in fairly good condition - and pre-squashed.  Now I'm leaning toward the Right Stuff.  What amazes me is no exhaust manifold gasket.  On the spare engine I tore down, someone had used hi-temp red RTV.  

<<I'd just check torque over and over until it stops changing. Worst you can do is waste your time. >>

Exactly!
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