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Look what followed me home -- 61 American convert! |
Post Reply | Page <1 678 |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19610 |
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The current plan is to use air springs like TomJ did on his roadster. No on-board air system! Just run lines with valves for each spring where they can be easily reached. Air springs only need 5 psi minimum, most go up to 100 psi. Tom doesn't say on his website, but I seem to recall he's only running 20-25 psi in the front, less in the back. He uses a bicycle pump to keep pressure up. He says he does lose a little pressure due to seeping (and temp changes), but a few strokes of a bicycle pump gets things back up to the desired level. I don't have a problem with checking the pressure once a month, especially since ride height is going to be the main thing affected. You won't get stranded unless you have a big leak, like something breaks or a defective valve, etc. I understand the use of Pacer arms, went to those myself on my Classic after cracking my welded up arms (that had been run for about 10 years). I learned enough to make arms that won't crack/break now, but forged factory pieces are strongest for sure. I'm just surprised they seem to work so well with the short wheelbase. I may have to try to source another pair!
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Frank Swygert
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Wrambler
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 4197 |
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Frank
Did you get the picture? Mark
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Wrambler
69 AMC Rambler 4.0L, 5 speed 2015 Grand Cherokee Limited 2019 Chrysler 300 |
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Wrambler
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 4197 |
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You can get an awesome air pump by Ryobi. It looks like a drill, uses 18volt battery. Pumps fast. You can get them cheap online
My son used his on track days at t he e track above Pittsburgh pa. The pump even has a digital gauge made on the back,
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Wrambler
69 AMC Rambler 4.0L, 5 speed 2015 Grand Cherokee Limited 2019 Chrysler 300 |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19610 |
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I didn't get pic. That air pump sounds interesting. If I decide to use air controls I may adapt it to work in the car. I'm not interested in slamming it or raising it quickly. Tom says it just takes 2-3 strokes of a bicycle pump in each air spring to bring it up to snuff after sitting a month, so really don't need an electric pump. The plus side is not having to run air tubing everywhere. Still, a trunk mounted air system (don't think I'd mount anything on dash) might be something I'd do later, with automatic pressure controls... Edited by farna - Jan/18/2024 at 7:12am |
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Frank Swygert
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Wrambler
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 4197 |
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I sent it to your att address
I have a phone meeting at 9:00 I'll see if I can post it after that My laptop is junk, but maybe I can get it sorted out and make it work. |
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Wrambler
69 AMC Rambler 4.0L, 5 speed 2015 Grand Cherokee Limited 2019 Chrysler 300 |
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WARBED
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Feb/12/2011 Location: Edinburg TX Status: Offline Points: 1677 |
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oh not sure is the wheelbase is that mush sorter on the Pacer. mine was a Wagon but should not mater. used the Pacer steering arms due to its rack and pinion and if I used to longer arm which I did for a short bit it turned like a Bus. easy to turn but took to long.
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59 American 2dr S/W. 70 390 AMX. 70 232 javelin. Kelvinator fridge ice cold beer storage.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19610 |
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I had the same issue when I put a rack and pinion on my 63 Classic. Fabricated arms and ran them for over 10 years, but eventually had a crack. The design could be made stronger, but honestly it was sort of a freak situation that made them crack -- just happened to apply force in an unusual direction, which pushed against a weak point. I sourced Pacer arms instead since another member used them on a Javelin with R&P. Ackerman Angle is very specific, but as I mentioned, in measuring the stock Ackerman of my Classic before I made any mods I discovered that it was only close, nowhere near perfect! The tires will scrub just a little, and as I noted, radials are a lot more forgiving than bias ply.
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Frank Swygert
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19610 |
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Worked on the rear brakes, have a good drawing for the rear caliper brackets now. I cut the rear brake backing plates down earlier (see page 4). If you didn't want to cut them all the way off they could just be notched where the caliper sits, leaving the rest as a dust/mud shield. I made a plywood mock-up of the caliper bracket. After the third one I had a good enough mock-up to create a drawing for the caliper bracket. Below is bracket #2, #3 cleaned up the lower hole positions. Here is the caliper bolted in position on the mock-up bracket. Caliper sits at about the 10 o'clock position on the rotor. The cable bracket just clear the spring mounting plate. Note that the spring mounting plates aren't stock on my car. I believe they may have been rusted and a previous owner made new ones. The shock mount from the original plate is welded on. The cable bracket won't be quite so close to stock plates. I'm waiting for a couple people to send me the bolt pattern dimensions from later model AMC 15 axles. If a mid 70s pattern is the same I think it safe to assume all are the same. The distance between the top two bolts (front to back) is 3-1/4", between bottom two 2-3/4", and between top bolt and bottom bolt (vertical) 1-3/4". I'm confident that if the spacing is the same on a mid 70s car and my 61 the bolt pattern is the same. Can someone check their car? MUST be an AMC 15 six cylinder rear end -- the AMC 20 is different. Six cylinder rear ends have a screw in filler plug on the back cover, AMC 20s don't. |
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Frank Swygert
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19610 |
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I did some more work on the rear disc brake brackets. Made a CAD drawing and sent it to Send-Cut-Send for a test bracket from thin metal. I didn't intend that, just read the size wrong, but turned out to be a great idea. The thin metal bracket was easy to file for adjustment. Only have to move one hole a little! I'll be getting some more made from 1/4" thick steel. So here's what I've done lately: 20 January – 0.5 hrs – $13.46 -- Bought grease zerks from Autozone (one pack straight, one pack 90 degree) 13 February – 0.5 hrs – $12.10 -- Ordered front bearing seals (for hubs). National 7022S, from Amazon, delivered 15 February 14 February – 4.0 hrs – Made CAD file of rear disc brake bracket. 15 February – 0.5 hrs -- $31.03 -- Sent CAD file to Send-Cut-Send, ordered sample bracket. (arrived 21 Feb) 26 February – 2.5 hrs – Assembled lower suspension arms for second side. Test fit rear disc brake bracket (have to move one hole slightly). Made brace pieces for each side for front end brace (under engine brace) 04 March – 5.0 hrs – Finished assembling second side suspension. Greased both suspension units. Installed driver side suspension assembly (no spring). Finished welding patches on driver’s side (near lower suspension mount). 59.5 hours $4482.48 (as of 04 March 2024) Edited by farna - Mar/04/2024 at 6:36pm |
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Frank Swygert
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