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I dont understand this.....

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2022 at 1:33pm
Not drill out as much as remove enough material to get a 45 degree angle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2022 at 1:37pm
Okay, I think I have to back up to the beginning.  Is this what your arrangement looks like?  Initially I assumed we were talking about the fit of the steel line into the hose but I get a hint that you are also talking about the fit of the hose into the wheel cylinder?


Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2022 at 11:15pm
You are correct, that's what I'm working with on the rambler. 
I was at first talking about the hard line flare seating into the seat of the soft hose. That business with the valve grinding compound and the seat not being the right degree to accept the common 45flared end of the hard line ect.. Ect ect
Then I was talking about the other end of the soft hose threading into the wheel cyl.
I took a pic of the "nut" of the end of the soft hose that threads into the cast iron wheel cyl to clear up any question marks, also, I did the test with the Prussia blue to show that the end of the soft hose does not contact the inside of the wheel cyl as the "nut" is fully contacting the cast iron body of the front wheel cyl. I did the test twice, once with the new hose in the new wheel cyl, and also with the old hose in the old wheel cyl, and got the same results. Both wheel cyl has the same part number stamped on them. 
Here's some pics. Your drawing made me laugh, it's great! 



Edited by 1958 rambler super - Dec/31/2022 at 11:18pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/01/2023 at 8:45am
Allrighty then!  Taking the wheel cylinder end of the hose first, could there be a copper sealing washer that goes between the hose and the wheel cylinder?  I looked on APD's website and they list a copper sealing washer for '56 - '76.  I do not have a '58 parts book but starting in '67, the parts book shows 3107540 as a sealing washing for all models.


As to the steel tube end, I think your lapping method will eventually work.

And just think, you could have taken up needlepoint!
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/02/2023 at 12:40am
Hmmm, my dad made me some copper washers once, they were 1/32 of an inch thick, I wonder if that thickness will be good for this new idea your suggesting.
I also don't have a parts catalog that includes the 1958 year, neither does tomj (I think he has some kind of part catalog that does include my year, but it's short, and doesn't have alot of part info, certainly not brakes hose washers, been there done that.)
The valve grinding compound altered hoses are on the car, waiting to be tested, I hope only one round of testing is needed, that would be nice, but untill the washers are inserted between the cyl and hose I'll wait. The inner diameter of those should be 3/8,i checked with the caliper tonight after work.
Also, your comment about needle point also made me laugh, as I have done needle point alot on my Jean jacket patches.... 
Here's a pic... The space channel was a great channel with lots of cool tv shows I used to watch while I was stoned after being graduated from highschool when I was 17, they took me and some other kids who didn't do good in school, skipped lots of class ect and gave us certain answers to the big test at the end of the year so we wouldn't come back next year. The space patch was my first attempt, never had done needle point before and it took me around 16 hours, and this work you see is the first try, no starting over or redo's. The stores that do embroidery wouldn't do the work because they were afraid of copyright issues so I had to make my own. The earth final conflict patch took around 7 hours, and I did that one on a train while travelling from Vancouver to Montreal in 2019.



Edited by 1958 rambler super - Jan/02/2023 at 12:42am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/02/2023 at 7:12am
You can get brake copper sealing washers at any auto parts store.  I just went through the front brakes on a '67 Belvedere and NAPA had the washers.

This situation has forced me to reconsider everything.  I don't know how AMC did it in 1958 but thinking back to the '60's and '70's of other makes I've worked on, for a drum brake setup the rear wheel cylinders typically have a female inverted flare connection because they use a steel line to a junction block on the rear differential.  The front wheel cylinders typically have a connection with a straight thread and a sealing washer because the transition to an inverted flare fitting is on the body end of the hose.  I apologize for not mentioning this sooner.

Now your car may use this philosophy, it may not.  It would be nice if someone had a '58 TSM or parts book that could shed some light on this.

NICE job on the patch.  I have to admit I've done some embroidery but nothing that nice.  When I was a kid in high school, my brother, one of our friends, and myself had grey coveralsl that on the back I had embroidered "Gazurs Wrecking You Wreck Them First We Wreck Them Worse" in red.  I wish I'd saved mine.

BTW, edited my sketch.




Edited by 6PakBee - Jan/02/2023 at 7:21am
Roger Gazur
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1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/07/2023 at 4:50pm
Ok, so after getting sick for some reason and threw up twelve times between 3am and 10am I got better since then and got ahold of those copper washers, checked the insides of the soft lines that I tried to resurface with the valve grinding compound and didn't like what I saw, the result of the hard line being tightly pressed as it should be onto the new seat didn't look like it would have sealed well, and the outer rim of the double inverted flare looked extra shiny and flat. I didn't go crazy tight on them but they still looked like that.
After doing the tests with the machinist layout die and discovered the tip wasn't the issue that I was believing to be the reason why the soft lines were not sealing, I went back and resorted to the first set (first of three different soft lines) of soft lines I bought that had the proper flare seat machined into them and put the copper washer onto the end and tightened it into the wheel cyl, I wrenched it TIGHT. I wasn't sure if the size was right but when I had them on the line I could see it was a perfect fit! 
This morning before work I did the drivers side and wrenched it TIGHT and then it started getting easier to tighten it and my heart sank. 
I either stripped the threads on the end of the soft line or the threads in the wheel cyl.
I got so mad. 
I haven't gotten this mad because of working on the rambler in almost a year.
From now on, I'm never working on this car again unless I'm drinking. 



Edited by 1958 rambler super - Jan/07/2023 at 5:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/08/2023 at 6:47am
You just need a little heal-up time and you'll be back at it full throttle.  Been there, done that, many times.  Hug
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/08/2023 at 2:56pm
Ok, took a look at the brake line and that was the part that stripped not the wheel cyl thankfully, but I also have another puzzle to solve now, the t junction at the axle has a problem, it's not the same type of t junction that the old one was.
The soft line inserts into the new t jinction and seats on the seat. But the tip seats before all the threads are inside the t junction, leaving a large amount of unused threads outside the t junction.... 
the old t junction (that is ruined and not useable) is different, and has the exact same interface needs as the front wheel cyls.... The deep hole, and copper washer needed.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/08/2023 at 3:16pm
Okay, APD shows a rear brake tee allegedly good for 57-62, all.


The parts book also shows a copper sealing washer on the hose connection for the rear brake tee but I have the book from '67 on so I'm just not sure about your '58..  I was puzzled that the APD tee on the hose side seems to be longer than the tee you show which could account for the increased depth.  Best I can do.
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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