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360 V8 Oil Pressure

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/13/2022 at 9:04pm
Just because there is spring pressure on the pressure relief/bypass valve, does not ensure it's seated.
There is a thread were John advises opening up the relief bore to 9/16" just to ensure this.
Ensure the relief plunger is seating with machinist blue or even a thin film of grease or anti seize.
Otherwise 20 PSI cold would be a sizable leak path, possibly a missing gallery plug but likely not that large.
Intake valley line is a possibility.
Doubt the bearings on a fresh rebuild could leak that much.
Oil pump clearance/scoring would likely not leak back that much oil cold either.
Your looking at approximately 4 g/m leak.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SC397 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/21/2023 at 12:00pm
I finally got the time to tear this one down to see what is up with it.
The first thing I did was run the oil pump with my drill to get a reading. 
This is a video of it. I got about 20 PSI with the drill.
IMG_6455 by Rick Jones, on Flickr

Then I drained the oil, pulled the pan and plastiguaged the Main and Rod bearings.
The Main Bearings are King brand and plastiguaged at .0015" clearance.
IMG_6488 by Rick Jones, on Flickr

The Rod Bearings are King brand as well and they plastiguaged at about .0018/.0020" clearance.
IMG_6486 by Rick Jones, on Flickr

Time to tear it all the way down to see what else is going on..
As I was pulling the cam out I heard a "tink".  
Come to find out #4 cam bearing had walked out of the block.  This has happened one other time in 117 engine builds (585 cam bearings). 
The other block was a 1973 block and this block is a 1987. I have heard this happening with a couple of other people as well with the same #4 bearing.  
Must be they had a issue every now and then in machining the #4 cam bearing housing. These were Dura Bond brand.
   IMG_6534 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
So I installed a new set of Sealed Power cam bearings in with LocTite on the center 3 bearings. This is how I fixed the 1973 block and it has been on the road since the '80's. 
I also swapped out the King Rod Bearings for a set of Clevite brand.  The Clevites run slightly tighter than the King brand. The Clevites plastiguaged more towards .0015" clearance.
IMG_6516 by Rick Jones, on Flickr


Time for the drill test again..
IMG_6517 by Rick Jones, on Flickr

Here is a video of the engine running at idle up to temperature.
IMG_6537 by Rick Jones, on Flickr



Edited by SC397 - Feb/21/2023 at 12:09pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brownspirit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/21/2023 at 1:52pm
Glad to hear it is fixed, sorry you guys caught a bad break.  Sounds like the issue was caught very early, and could have been a lot worse.  Going forward, do you plan to use clevite cam bearings only, or a little loctite on all of them?  I guess with as many as you’ve done, 2 issues doesn’t  really establish a concerning pattern.  
69' BBB AMX 390/4-speed

69' s/crambler project

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote SC397 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/21/2023 at 2:16pm
I don't plan on changing a thing.  (Well except, I am still trying to retire) LOL!
The 1973 engine ran over a year on the streets before I tore that one down.  They both had oil pressure, just low. 
Even thought it turned out to be nothing that I did wrong, I am still glad that it wasn't one of those that I built and sent to Austria, England, Italy, Germany, or Sweden. 
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