Factory starter that clears long-tube headers

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   I run those same Hooker headers with the 1-7/8" tubes and 3-1/2" collectors. I also have the original starter (although they've been rebuilt and exchanged a few times.
I don't have to lift the engine but I do need to unbolt the headers at the collector and cylinder head in order to get the starter out. It helps to have a second person hold and wiggle the header while you maneuver the starter beneath to remove it.

Any yeah - joy is not the word I would use either. 

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Cruzer Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/18/2022 Location: Sheboygan, WI Status: Offline Points: 49	Post Options Post Reply Quote Cruzer Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/12/2022 at 8:34am
	I run those same Hooker headers with the 1-7/8" tubes and 3-1/2" collectors. I also have the original starter (although they've been rebuilt and exchanged a few times. I don't have to lift the engine but I do need to unbolt the headers at the collector and cylinder head in order to get the starter out. It helps to have a second person hold and wiggle the header while you maneuver the starter beneath to remove it. Any yeah - joy is not the word I would use either.
	Mark Quasius 1972 Javelin-AMX 401 4-Speed

Red Devil Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1743	Post Options Post Reply Quote Red Devil Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/12/2022 at 1:47pm
	I have the 1 7/8" Hooker 7103s in my '74 Javelin. The headers came with instructions to R&R. Follow the instructions. IRRC, have to trim the driver's side engine mount cushion (otherwise, interferes with one tube), unbolt the engine mounts and ground strap, raise the engine and rotate slightly to install the passenger's side header. I used a bungee cord to the header and one to the starter and an engine support across the engine bay like shown in the TSM. Bungee cords help a bunch when you don't have an assistant to help. Now have a Powermaster 9515 starter and there was room to R&R without removing the header with the stock pan. When I fit an Armando road-race style pan with wide sump, needed to do the header/starter shuffle again - but loosening the header mounting bolts got enough wiggle-room for me. Also used stepped header studs with small hex nuts as makes it much easier to align than bolts. If keeping the stock starter, a heat-shield / blanket is recommended. Mine always struggled to start with the stock starter when hot. The Powermaster has been fine. Hope this helps, RD.