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1969 javelin door pillar metal.?? |
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hassyfoto
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/16/2009 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 3378 |
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I agree, depending on your specific skill set or a friend, auto collision technician skill set. The front radiator side baffle can be repair with a a slide hammer with clamp and using the hammer & dolly technique(s). Yeah, it will take a day to do it, but very repairable. The rear cowl post can be repaired with a stud gun and slide hammer/knocker. Again, it would take a few to several hours of work to get metal into shape, and if you wanted you could perform body filler repairs to make it look undamaged after the sheet-metal hammer/dolly work is performed. There is of course other ways to repair the cowl/post area, but each type of repair gets a little more involved, such as; 1. Cut the area of damage off the car as a one piece unit. Hammer & dolly the part back into shape and reweld the item back into position. Again, weld work, grinding, & body work. 2. Cut a window hole about an inch square on the side of the panel & on the lower area. Using body collision repair picks and work the dent out. Same principle that paint-less dent repairs are performed. 3. Weld some metal tabs to the metal in strategic areas, attach a dent puller and using a hammer/dolly technique to work the dent(s) back into position. Of course this is a method used by collision techs and does require an understanding of welding metal tabs in place, how to pull and how to remove the metal tabs without causing rips, tears or holes in the metal. 4. Replace the radiator side panel with a replacement. The issue here is finding the part in good usable shape and the amount of work that it takes to replace the panel. At the top the panel is sandwiched into place under the upper horizontal radiator support . 5. Find a replacement cowl/post area, cut out the damage part and weld in the replacement. The problem with this panel, it is sandwiched in between other panels and is NOT an easy panel to cut out at the factory seams and just replace. Ultimately, the choice is based on how you want to restore the car. If the car is for pleasure driving and local shows, once the repairs are completed, painted and some undercoated is applied, no one will know the difference after the fender is installed. If you want a concours correct car, that is another ball of wax all by itself. |
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Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment |
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Repsolroger
AMC Nut Joined: Aug/23/2021 Location: washington Status: Offline Points: 376 |
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Yah for pleasure driving and using alot of premium gas...that front part by the head lite is beyond me for straightening..i could try...if i make it worse i can replace it.or weld a 16/20 guage mirror piece on..i just dont have a bead roller to put strengthing bends .but the pillar part...ill try to replace...ill check out that dudes parts...and that harbor frieght tool...looks like a good investment....thanks for all the info....i have so much stuff to do..i have to try to stay focused 1 thing at a time...or else i get freaked out ...
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1969 sst javelin restomod
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hassyfoto
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/16/2009 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 3378 |
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The radiator baffle (side panel) is really not that difficult of a repair once you understand the concept of using a dent puller and using hammer/dolly technique. You would use slide hammer with some type of pinch clamp. The process would include using the slide hammer, then keeping pressure on the handle (just pulling the handle & not using the slide handle) and use a hammer to keep tapping on the high spots. I would research online and review how to use a slide hammer. Then I might suggest you take a look at how to perform a hammer/dolly technique for metal repair. As big as the side baffle panel measures, you could use a 2x4 (about 24 inches long) as a dolly. Of course, cutting the panel out (cost of a panel, welder, spot weld cutter, drill, grinder, grinding disc(s) & some type of tool/material for grinding down welds) vs. a dent puller, clamp, dolly and hammer. Your method of repair or replacement, as well as who performs the work will all play on the budget. There are numerous collision/restoration pros on this forum and of course on-line articles to get you through the repair process, regardless of the method of repair.
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Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment |
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BU1
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/11/2016 Location: MN Status: Offline Points: 2016 |
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Some sort of a clamp and an inexpensive come along would work well here. The come along will give an even pull while you work with the hammer and dolly. Just tie the other end of the come along to some inanimate object. Trees work well! For the cowl, you could drill holes where you need to center the pull from, and pull on an eye bolt with fender washers and a nut inside the cowl. You can get your hand right in there from the interior floor vent. Don't make it too difficult, these areas will never be seen once the fender is on.
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AMO #2726
#1 1968 AMX Rally Green 343 Z code 4spd since 1975 #02642 #2 1968 AMX Rally Green 290 N code 4spd since 2019 #02959 |
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Repsolroger
AMC Nut Joined: Aug/23/2021 Location: washington Status: Offline Points: 376 |
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Great ideas...love it
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1969 sst javelin restomod
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1970390amx
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/11/2008 Location: colorado Status: Offline Points: 3314 |
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If you remove the inner kick panel you can have access to the inside of cowl vent area, some blocks of wood and a hammer will drive a lot of thet dent out
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1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX
1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box |
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Repsolroger
AMC Nut Joined: Aug/23/2021 Location: washington Status: Offline Points: 376 |
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1969 sst javelin restomod
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