After Market Front Suspension

Beno48 wrote:

Bill,

What tilt column did you get from Flaming River?

Beno

From my spreadsheet:

Steering Column, Flaming River, 33" Muscle Car, Blk Powder Coat, # FR300010BK.

Stramp Clamp, Flaming River, Column Mounting Bracket, # FR20300.

Steering Coupler, Ididit, 1"DD x 3/4"DD, # 3000315249 (from Jeg's).

CF supplies everything needed to connect the column to the rack. Its been a while but I think the D-rod goes up into the column a bit but still needs cutting. CF instructions are very good on this. The stramp clamp bolts the column to the dash. You just need to figure out (measure) where to install it. Same for the firewall penetration...used original bracket.

The suggestion about getting a used column with cruise and dimmer switch is good. I'm still using the floor dimmer and had to cut/grind/file some extra space at the turn signal lever to make room for the cruise wires. Fishing the cruise control wires down the column wasn't fun.

As for the steering wheel mount, I've had an after market steering wheel on the car forever and the adapter transferred OK. Possibly Grant stuff.

And finally, now that I'm rehashing this, the Flaming River purchase wasn't trouble free. The first time it arrived the key switch was damaged. I had to send it back and they repaired it instead of replacing the whole column. And I've had to adjust the ignition switch because it wouldn't engage "start." There is a small rod that pulls the electrical contactor when you turn the key. I had to move the switch farther down the column to get it to start.

Bill O.
70 AMX

I also installed the CF suspension on my 71 Javelin. Al Kamhi at CF is SO GREAT. He's very generous with his time, answering Qs, and even parts support.

If someone installs the R/P steering and gets a high pitched "zing" type sound from the steering somewhere in the lock-to-lock range, it is due to is a combination of the new (read: modern day) pumps and small diameter, relatively short steel braid hoses.

It isn't the rack. A hydraulic pressure wave causes the noise. The new pumps are not as damped as the old ones were, and larger, longer hoses will dampen the pressure wave. I went to larger diameter, longer hoses and the noise went away. I noticed that having tried 4 different pumps, my ol' GM P/S pump (off a 73 Javelin) worked the best. It had large diameter hoses. The pressure hose also had a mid-length connection that I suspect was purposely installed to interrupt the pressure wave. Jeff at Turn One worked for GM and conveyed some of the above info.

I conveyed the solution to Al, and while I was figuring it out, he went to a variable pressure pump, and I think he changed the hoses, too.

With the new Control Freak IFS brakes were upgraded to Wilwood 6 piston 14" rotors and all steel braided lines.

Al at CF was easy to work with and provided considerable support during ordering process

I am on the hunt for a front suspension on my 66 Rogue. I aim to build a street car that I can race at Auto X and Drag events. There is lots of helpful info on this thread, but there have been some changes as I can't find a few manufacturers previously mentioned.

I have been looking at two systems primarily, Control freaks and Dairyland, both are currently manufacturing kits as of Jan 2024. I'd love some input from people who have tested these systems and what application you have tested them in.

Control Freaks IFS

Pros: Updated rack and pinion steering (power and manual), sway bar, direct bolt-in, all suspension load being transferred to the Frame/K-Member, ability to choose multiple engine mounts for your application or future swap, CF has a fantastic reputation for customer service.

Cons/concerns: Limited suspension travel.

Overall, it looks like a great kit. My question is, will 4.1" of travel be sufficient for the above applications? Has anyone used their kit in a drag racing application or Auto X? Do you have any complaints about rod end vs poly bushings?

Dairyland Fab - Stage1 and Stage2 kits

Pros: Affordable coilover swap, bolt-in, no need to replace existing K-member, suspension travel looks to be increased to 5."

Cons/concerns: I have read some criticism that the Ramber was not designed to support the full load of the suspension, no sway bar option, and no rack and pinion option.

Above are just a few details I have gathered. I would love your feedback on what I still need to include and if there are any other options I should look at. Anytime geometry is being changed, performance can be impacted, for the good or bad. What is your experience?