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Mom called it the Meat locker |
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rsrguy3 
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Joined: Jun/24/2012 Location: Utah Status: Offline Points: 673 |
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 Topic: Mom called it the Meat lockerPosted: Dec/18/2021 at 8:41am |
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The Zcode grandpa gave me was loaded.... optioned out. I remember it's ac was seriously effective at cooling things off. It has all of the original bits, although I must admit I may have lost the original york mount.
Any thoughts on ac components sitting 28 years? I was a kid when I started my family and didn't know dik about plugging the components up so although I live in a dry climate they have been exposed. I'm undecided on the York / Sandon debate, but I do want it to be compatible with modern gas. I'm leaning towards York for originality sake but don't know if I can pull that off effectively with the newer gas. Do I need to replace my evap, condenser, dryer and valve on top of my compressor?
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javguy
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george w
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Joined: Jan/27/2013 Location: New Jersey Status: Offline Points: 2899 |
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Posted: Jan/13/2022 at 1:37pm |
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York will work with modern gas but the Sanden style is smoother and quieter. Yes, you should replace or have rebuilt the receiver/dryer. Vintage air rebuilt mine. Pull a vacuum on the system for at least an hour since it’s been open so long.
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Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Regamble1969
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Joined: Dec/01/2021 Location: Boise Idaho Status: Offline Points: 204 |
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Posted: Jan/16/2022 at 1:54pm |
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Exactly what George W said. When I first started AC work in the '90s, the parts companies were saying that everything except the evaporator and condenser had to be changed to run 134a. Then a company (I don't remember who) made r12 to 134a adapter fittings and said the sale of 134a "conversion kits" were all a lie. We went to converting everything with new style fittings and never had a problem. As you might guess, a lot of those were York compressors. My own truck ran a converted system with a york for 20 years or so before I sold it. That said, he is also correct that a Sanden is better pump. They are smaller, more efficient, use less power, and are quieter and smoother. My 69jav is getting a Sanden even though I have several Yorks laying around. The only thing I would add to George's comment is if the system has been truly open for years, I would run an AC flush through it then seal it up and put the vacuum to it just like he said.
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witz
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Joined: Feb/11/2022 Location: Los Angeles, Ca Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: Mar/10/2022 at 10:22am |
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I got a 68' AMX think it is worth bring the A/C back to life? it has all original parts? I
What do you estimate the cost to be? David
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Regamble1969
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Joined: Dec/01/2021 Location: Boise Idaho Status: Offline Points: 204 |
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Posted: Mar/10/2022 at 12:05pm |
This is very hard to answer without more information. Having all the original equipment can be helpful, but with AC, even that is questionable. AC systems that are 100% sealed can last years just sitting, but if they are open to the environment, a lot of those parts don't handle that well. The 2 hardest parts, the evaporator and the condenser, are thankfully pretty robust parts. Here's a breakdown of most of this stuff: Compressor - York compressors are amazingly well built and resilient components. Your york may be fine, but a reman is available everywhere for $200 - $400. If being original matters to you, this is the way to go. If not, like me, a Sanden 508 with adapter bracket is just a better unit and will cost about the same. Receiver/dryer: As said above, you can have yours rebuilt but I don't know what that would cost. A "universal" one can be had for as low as $50 but $100 should be more than enough budgeted for one. There is nothing special about these parts, so if they fit they should work (mostly). I am using one from a Mack truck because it fit where I wanted it to be. Expansion valve: easily acquired for about $50. Lines: if you are able to use stock lines that's great. My last set I took the car to a local place that builds AC and hydraulic lines, they measured and built everything right there for $150. This is the best way to make sure the ends all work with the components. Charging: if you feel comfortable with this, then great, but it does require some special tools and knowledge. Specifically a vacuum pump and gauges. You can charge the system through the gauge set if you have the right hoses and fittings. If you don't have those, don't bother buying them. You'll spend 3x more on them than paying someone to vacuum and charge it. If everything goes well, and needing about 1.75lb of 134a at $20/lb (I have a 30lb can so I don't know what the current price is) with oil and die should be about $150 - $200. R134a is super susceptible to overcharging and is the biggest thing I see people do wrong in conversions. The system will have to be flushed before charging too, that'll be about $100 to have it done prior to charging or you can do that part for about $50. So it all comes down to how much of your stuff can be reused and how much you want to reuse. On mine, the evaporator and condenser are the only 2 parts I am reusing. I'll be into my pump w/adapter, lines, expansion valve, R/D, and charge mix about $700. If your system has been kept 100% sealed, count on at least the expansion valve, R/D, flush and charge (with adapter fittings). If the system has been left open, I would count on replacing everything except for the evaporator and condenser. But do I think it's worth it? Well you can see what I'm going through to put factory-ish AC back on my car... Hope this helps, feel free to PM me if you have more specific questions or need help, I'll do what I can.
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witz wrote: