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Disc brakes

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mbwicz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbwicz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/06/2021 at 1:08pm
Originally posted by AMXFSTBK390 AMXFSTBK390 wrote:

Let's not forget the studs are swedged/swaged and is the reason why the hub and rotor can not be separated  until the swedge is cut first with a hollow end mill. Couple years ago I started a thread about this and there are pix of the cutting tool. I bought the correct studs from Galvin's back then. Couple days later, got lucky. A pair of NOS rotors & hubs showed up on eBay. The rotors were coated with a thick black hard as steel coating. Tried about ten different chemicals to dissolve the film. No go. Took the rotors to a brake shop and had them turned and this remove the coating.

On the 70 hubs I worked on last month, the swedges were flush or slightly below the surface of the hub.  I have seen these tools but was concerned at the amount of material that needed to be removed from the hub to clear the swedge.  I got away with knocking the studs thru and the new studs seated fully.  Maybe I was just lucky.

Mike

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXFSTBK390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/06/2021 at 1:57pm
The PO had a inexperienced brake shop work on the brakes.  The mechanic evidently pounded the studs out and damaged the hub. Look at thr base of the studs at the top of photo. The mechanic did a hack job and created a dangerous situation. There are small chunks of the hub missing. The rotors had been recently machined. Inexcusable.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/06/2021 at 3:08pm
All of this would lead me back to the suggestion "If the brakes are working well, and if your pads are good and thick, and you don't use the brakes hard (like mountain driving or racing)" I'd leave them alone for now!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nardo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2021 at 3:48pm
Maybe this is just an urban legend, but I remember my High School auto shop teacher telling us that the reason for the minimum thickness on any rotor was because the surface of the rotors was hardened and once you removed that hardened layer it would lead to accelerated wear and brake failure. 

Unless that is just legend, I'd be looking for a set of replacement rotors. 
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/11/2021 at 2:11am
re: the swage-removal tool: someone on this forum pointed out that a 1/2" hole saw in a drill press, without the center drill, does a decent job of cutting the swage. It also ruins the metal around the lug. I have not done this. 

But that's not the hub metal, it's the drum. If you are gonna replace it anyway you don't care.
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