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Crazy Idea |
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6913 |
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Mine sort of looks like this one only 10 AMP:
But you would have to test it before using it to ensure you have a 60 Hz frequency! Could build one fairly cheaply: plus transformer, case, wire and fuses.
Edited by Trader - Dec/03/2021 at 7:50pm |
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555 |
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I owned a Tungar charger back when I was in my 20's. It was ancient then, I think 1920 - 1930. Looked like a camp stove with a scary hot glass mercury diode. One side of the DC output was connected to the AC line. They were deathtraps. Probably out out 3 - 5 amps. Regulation? HAHA!
Horrid old thing. Wish I had it now! Not to use! Now I have a Battery Minder, microprocessor-controlled, contains more computing power than the CIA had in 1970. The Tungar definitely did not filter it's DC.. it definitely would make that tach emit smoke and parts.
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6913 |
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Thankfully you survived Tom!
An electrical device will only draw the current allowed though it. Fuses are used to protect the wiring in case what is at the end of the line develops a short and draws too much current. You will not smoke or have parts self destruct if you have measured the voltage source and it is within the specification of the "driven" part. You can take a 12VDC led light that draws miniscule AMPs or a 12VDC blower motor that draws multiple AMPs and test them on the same car battery with nothing going up in smoke unless they are defective with an internal short. How many have just put LED bulbs in place of incandescent without changing any wiring or fuses - even though their AMP draw is far different? Micro processors are not always the best and greatest things either. My current troubleshooting was a vehicle that was not charging the battery even though the battery and alternator tested fine. The ECU decided that the battery would not get charged if there was a 0.5 VDC drop between the battery and alternator output terminals even though you could read the 14.2VDC at the battery terminal when the engine was running (secondary 0.3 AMP circuit from the ECU). Three hours to determine the alternator terminal needed to be cleaned - and a real @##$% to get at! And no idea why someone would even design this.
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Rebel Machine
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Western Il Status: Offline Points: 5121 |
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Cluster is getting closer. The overlay needs the numbers repainted and color gels installed but looks pretty good so far. I think I'm going to install the tach's shift light where the "OIL" indicator is. |
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bigbad69
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6686 |
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Why not use the "Park" light for the shift indicator since it's unused in that cluster? That tach retrofit looks really good!
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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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Rebel Machine
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Western Il Status: Offline Points: 5121 |
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I was contemplating that also. Chose the "OIL" indicator since it's right atop the tach. Not sure how bright the shift light from the aftermarket tach is, probably pretty bright. Plus the "PARK" and "BRAKE" are kind of in a bore which may be harder to see. -Steve-
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Rebel Machine
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Western Il Status: Offline Points: 5121 |
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Finished making a box for the PCB on the back of the tach. The shift light is positioned where the "OIL" light use to be (I have a gauge instead). |
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