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New top rated oil

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mbwicz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote mbwicz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/21/2021 at 9:57am
His blog is really long, but its a good read if you have time (I spent time during lunch reading it over for a couple of weeks).  He has theories and has generated data.  Its up to individuals to believe or question it, similar to Bob the Oil Guy.

Personally, I believe his data, but I'm still going to break in with a mineral oil as directed by Total Seal (and Darton Sleeve, even though I'm not using sleeves).  This is just to get the rings to seat, I'm running a roller cam.

Its interesting that 540 Rat also comments about how some engines with stiffer valve springs can bleed the hydraulic lifters down faster with a synthetic than mineral oils.  Again, interesting observations and theory.  He also goes thru some oil filter dissection and observations.
Mike

1970 AMX, one step forward, one step back. Both steps cost time and money.
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/21/2021 at 10:11am
Here is an odd bit of information. Honda has used high amounts of Molybdenum in their Dino brake-in oil. They recommend 3K or so. Many were runing it over until their oil change warning got down to 10% or less and over a year.

Note, after 2 years of production they changed over to full syntetic with high Molybdenum content, which happened to be in line with the their fix with ring sealing and oil consumption.

The original owner of our car had the brake-in oil changed within a years time, at less than 3k.

While many complained about piston ring sealing issues, with oil consumption, after completing their break in oil change.

Ours never used more than 1/2 quart per oil change.

Assuming high Molybdenum brake-in oil gets broken down after time, along with fuel contamination on extended use, its more about changing out your oil sooner than later during brake-in.

I read from an old racer on a old Amxterminator mag, that when breaking in an engine, the first 2 minutes are critical. After 2 minutes of idle, he dumps the oil and checks and looks at his filters, then replaces filters, and fills with new oil, then continues with break in.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
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Springer2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Springer2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/22/2021 at 10:14pm
A general thought among mechanics I knew was it was better to break an engine in on conventional oil for the first 500 miles or so and then it was okay to go to a synthetic oil. Back in the late 70s I was working as a mechanic at a trucking company and the shop foreman wanted to try the then pretty new Mobil 1 synthetic. Their tracking seemed to indicate an improvement in fuel mileage so then the manager wanted to break some of the new trucks in on Mobil 1. The rumor around the shop was the engines used more oil so the decision was made to go back to regular 15-40 diesel oil. 

In any case I personally believe synthetic oil protects better but I have never seen convincing evidence one way or another about synthetics for break in so I just follow the recommended oil information from the maker or builder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6768rogues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/24/2021 at 7:14am
On my most recent build I used Joe Gibbs racing oil for break in, then changed to Walmart dinosaur oil. I use synthetic in my modern vehicles that require synthetic. On my 50 year old cars, I use conventional oil. They don’t get as many miles between changes, and today’s conventional oil is a dozen generations better than what the engines were designed for.
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Located usually near Rochester, NY and sometimes central FL.
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rgsauger View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rgsauger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/24/2021 at 11:48pm
 It would still be hard for me to put Quaker State in anything I own.  I remember the days when we called it quaker sludge because of the paraffin buildup. I know that things have changed but my memory hasn’t.

 I run 1540 Rotella in  basically everything that I own. I’ve put over 600,000 miles on dodge Cummins Engine‘s with total success using that oil and good Baldwin filters. We use VR1 Valvoline in a pretty hot Mustang 289. Otherwise, it all gets Rotella. 
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