Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
New top rated oil |
Post Reply | Page <12 |
Author | |
mbwicz
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Feb/20/2019 Location: Buffalo, NY Status: Offline Points: 2001 |
Post Options
Thanks(1)
|
His blog is really long, but its a good read if you have time (I spent time during lunch reading it over for a couple of weeks). He has theories and has generated data. Its up to individuals to believe or question it, similar to Bob the Oil Guy.
Personally, I believe his data, but I'm still going to break in with a mineral oil as directed by Total Seal (and Darton Sleeve, even though I'm not using sleeves). This is just to get the rings to seat, I'm running a roller cam. Its interesting that 540 Rat also comments about how some engines with stiffer valve springs can bleed the hydraulic lifters down faster with a synthetic than mineral oils. Again, interesting observations and theory. He also goes thru some oil filter dissection and observations. Mike |
|
1970 AMX, one step forward, one step back. Both steps cost time and money.
|
|
304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Here is an odd bit of information. Honda has used high amounts of Molybdenum in their Dino brake-in oil. They recommend 3K or so. Many were runing it over until their oil change warning got down to 10% or less and over a year.
Note, after 2 years of production they changed over to full syntetic with high Molybdenum content, which happened to be in line with the their fix with ring sealing and oil consumption. The original owner of our car had the brake-in oil changed within a years time, at less than 3k. While many complained about piston ring sealing issues, with oil consumption, after completing their break in oil change. Ours never used more than 1/2 quart per oil change. Assuming high Molybdenum brake-in oil gets broken down after time, along with fuel contamination on extended use, its more about changing out your oil sooner than later during brake-in. I read from an old racer on a old Amxterminator mag, that when breaking in an engine, the first 2 minutes are critical. After 2 minutes of idle, he dumps the oil and checks and looks at his filters, then replaces filters, and fills with new oil, then continues with break in. |
|
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
|
Springer2
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/06/2021 Location: PA - FL Status: Offline Points: 40 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
A general thought among mechanics I knew was it was better to break an engine in on conventional oil for the first 500 miles or so and then it was okay to go to a synthetic oil. Back in the late 70s I was working as a mechanic at a trucking company and the shop foreman wanted to try the then pretty new Mobil 1 synthetic. Their tracking seemed to indicate an improvement in fuel mileage so then the manager wanted to break some of the new trucks in on Mobil 1. The rumor around the shop was the engines used more oil so the decision was made to go back to regular 15-40 diesel oil.
In any case I personally believe synthetic oil protects better but I have never seen convincing evidence one way or another about synthetics for break in so I just follow the recommended oil information from the maker or builder.
|
|
6768rogues
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6241 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
On my most recent build I used Joe Gibbs racing oil for break in, then changed to Walmart dinosaur oil. I use synthetic in my modern vehicles that require synthetic. On my 50 year old cars, I use conventional oil. They don’t get as many miles between changes, and today’s conventional oil is a dozen generations better than what the engines were designed for.
|
|
Content intended for mature audiences. If you experience nausea or diarrhea, stop reading and seek medical attention.
Located usually near Rochester, NY and sometimes central FL. |
|
rgsauger
AMC Nut Joined: Aug/17/2014 Location: Houston,TX Status: Offline Points: 311 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
It would still be hard for me to put Quaker State in anything I own. I remember the days when we called it quaker sludge because of the paraffin buildup. I know that things have changed but my memory hasn’t.
I run 1540 Rotella in basically everything that I own. I’ve put over 600,000 miles on dodge Cummins Engine‘s with total success using that oil and good Baldwin filters. We use VR1 Valvoline in a pretty hot Mustang 289. Otherwise, it all gets Rotella.
|
|
Post Reply | Page <12 |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |