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1971 Hornet SC360 Not Charging and No Cluster

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Bellinis View Drop Down
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    Posted: Jul/29/2021 at 7:33am
Ok guys first things first I have a 1971 AMC Hornet SC360 also known as the "LIL Stinger".
It was sitting for a little bit and needed a tune up, (New plugs, wires, cap and rotor, reset the timing and adjusted the carb.
So while driving and messing with the carb on my test drives the car died Cry. got it jumped got it back. then noticed the Alternator was not Charging.. so with everything being original I had it rebuild after doing some google research. Put the new alternator on yesterday and still nothing. And now I have noticed I don't have Tach, or Speedo on the dash. some more Google research and got new voltage regulator from napa and plugged it in. Still nothing..Angry The Alt light on the dash is bright red and stays on when Car is running, voltmeter says battery is at 12.6 while running, Alt light will dimmer down when rpm ramp up but is still on. I don't know much about the wiring of these cars and cant find anything on the hornets. Would Greatly appreciate any help guys
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/29/2021 at 7:35am
"Prolly" is not a word.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bellinis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/29/2021 at 7:40am
Man That Was Fast, Will Look Into It Right Now. Thank You Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bellinis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/29/2021 at 12:00pm
So after going threw the link and diagnosing I feel like I still don't have answers. 

Test 1 open diode-trio-- With Battery Fully Charged (12.6) and Diagnosed as descripted in link was open open diode-trio test. Connected Meter and jumper wire to described locations, engine off and key on Alt light is off, but as soon as I take jumper off light comes back. back to testing with jumper connected alternator will climb to 12.9Volt unless under high RPM then Alternator chargers at max 13.3 Volts and drops back to 12.9 at idle, once jumper is removed ALT light comes back and ALT Charge drops back to 12.6 


Test 2 Regulator Test--  Connected meter and jumper wires to described locations. engine off, Key on. ALT light is on as it was without jumper connected. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/29/2021 at 8:50pm
As old as these wiring harnesses are it wouldn't be unusual for a wire to have it's conductor disconnected from a lug but still have the insulation intact. That's just speculation on my part though.

You probably have the Motorola charging system. There are several connections that need to be made.

The large red wire from the alternator isolation diode output terminal connects to the battery side of the starter relay.

The "Regulator" terminal is the single connector with an orange wire. Be sure that post is insulated from the case. Sometimes when they're rebuilt they're not done correctly.

The one that is most overlooked is the field excite winding. That is the two conductor connector (usually 'L' shaped, older cars have two individual connectors) with a green wire and a black wire. The black wire connects to the alternator ground terminal, the green connects to the field terminal.

I'd look over all the terminals and connectors to be sure they're not covered with corrosion.








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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bellinis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/30/2021 at 7:23am
All Connections seem to be in the right location going off the diagram. and yes Motorola Charging system. When I jumper wire from the field terminal to the Alt output terminal. The ALT light goes away but oly charges at 13.3
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/30/2021 at 7:40am
You may have a one dead cell in the battery. 13.3 + 1.2 = 14.5, 12.6 + 1.2 = 13.8 which should be the near the voltage you see right after a drive and letting the battery settle for 15 to 20 minutes.
The dead cell could be just a big resistor preventing full alternator output.  

Symbol correction.


Edited by Trader - Jul/30/2021 at 9:00am
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